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FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Alignment issues » Today 5:03 PM

Grabber Blu wrote:

rpm wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

The only way to set caster is to take two readings with the wheel turned 20 degrees out and 20 degrees in.   

Not really. You can check & set caster from the upper and lower ball joint threads.


 

Not familiar with that method, could you explain
 

For the right front wheel: With the wheels centered on turn plates you turn the wheel until the turn plate reads 20 degrees turning right, take a caster reading.  Now turn the wheel until it reads 20 degrees turning to the left.  The difference between the two readings is the caster.  Obviously its the opposite method for the left front wheel.  Then you just subtract the first measurement from the second, so for example, if the first measurement was 3.5 degrees negative and the second was 7 degrees positive; the caster angle would be 3.5 degrees positive. 

If you have a digital gauge you can zero its even easier.  Just turn the wheel out and zero the gauge.  Turn in an note the reading; that's the caster angle. 

The first method works if you have really simple tools, and I used it many years ago before I bought better tools.  It works, but is slower and the accuracy is somewhat suspect, not because of the method, but because of the tools typically used to measure the angle.  Better tools render it unnecessary, and I've never directly compared the two methods to verify the relative accuracy of the first method. 

The second method is how I do it with the Fasttrax gauge, which can be zeroed, and has a caster scale specifically for this purpose in addition to the camber scale. 

Certainly you can measure directly off the balljoints, or on other reference points on specific setups.  Truthfully this would never occur to me because I have to be able to align a half dozen different vehicles in my fleet of differing years, makes, and models.  Therefore the simplest way for me is to put the vehicle on the turn plates and affix th

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Soft Pedal w/ Power Brakes » Today 4:55 PM

GPatrick
Replies: 4

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Not sure where you are in the disc brake conversion.  The emergency brakes need to be cycled (if they are a Ford type anyway, to push the pads close to the rotor.  If they are all the way open you may not have enough fluid from your master cylinder to close the gap.

While it is likely that the brake rod on the booster is properly adjusted, you should check this anyway.  If it is out too far and not letting the master fully retract you may not get full pedal when trying to bleed.  This can cause other problems when you try to drive it.  If the rod is too short, you will be wasting a lot of pedal movement with no response from the master because of the pedal ratio.  There are a number of threads dealing with this but ideally you want perhaps .010" inches clearance (10 thousands) for it to function properly.

If the e-brakes are fully adjusted and the master is set properly then it is likely air still in the system (especially if you route any lines above the M/C) or you have a bad M/C, or you were not successful when you bench bled the M/C.  Repeated bleeding of the lines and possibly reverse bleeding may not clear a chunk of air in the M/C.

That's all I can think of - good luck.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Soft Pedal w/ Power Brakes » Today 3:39 PM

Looks like I need to look try bleeding the breaks again and then check for leaks.  

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Crank up and die » Today 2:38 PM

Thanks for all the help! I jumper wired the coil then jumped the starter solenoid. It cranked up and stayed running every time. So I figured it was and bought a new switch. But being old fashioned, when I pulled the wiring from the ignition switch I cleaned those terminals, cleaned female wiring harness with toothpick, put it back together. LOL It's cranked and stayed running 10 times in a row now. I'll keep the switch in the trunk. It is the one you replace your original key in.
Dang thang made me nervous at the convenience store so I reached out to the pros! Thank you everyone!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Crank up and die » Today 2:26 PM

Bullet Bob
Replies: 3

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Yup, what John said.   Sounds like you may have a bad Ign. Switch or a crappy connection between the pink Ign. wire and the firewall connector.  Or possibly a bad connection between the pink wire and the pigtail at the Ign. Switch.  Or maybe between the firewall connector and the coil.  Since it eventually "catches" I betting on a bad Ign. Switch.
The coil gets power from the "I" terminal of the solenoid during start but that drops out as soon as the key returns to RUN. 

BB

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Soft Pedal w/ Power Brakes » Today 1:16 PM

Alessandro
Replies: 4

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If the car is not running the booster simply don't work and the only feelings from the booster will be the light counter spring in it . 
the booster will help you ( WHILE RUNNING) to push with less force the  pedal and have more braking power.
To be clear you don't encrease your breaking power , you have less effort on pedal  and by conseguence you can push more .
if you go with pedal to end you have some leaks or air is still in .
Proportioning valve doesn t' matter  , but if is  old  oem one i should replace it . 
I lost a lot of time taking air out  . Only when is hard and can not go more than half pedal travel you will be sure you have done the purge .

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Crank up and die » Today 1:04 PM

Sounds like you need to be tracing out the run circuit.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Soft Pedal w/ Power Brakes » Today 1:01 PM

With the lines bled out and the booster acting like it’s supposed to, the brake pedal should be firm to hard to push with the car not running. My pedal doesn’t travel very far either without a lot of effort with the motor not running.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Crank up and die » Today 12:10 PM

Hello everyone. 68, stock 289, 3 speed, 4100 autolite.  It cranks up but dies, as if you turn the key off. Crank up and die. Until it catches and stays running. This has become more frequent and more tries before it catches. I checked the points and coil, they're getting spark. I put it back together it starts working again. I've had this happen to me before, but the problem just went away. Now it came back. First time it happened I unplug the connection under the steering column, eight or nine wire, and plugged it back up. So it might be ignition switch?
Thanks for your Help!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » ooo baby baby YES YES » Today 10:34 AM

Bullet Bob
Replies: 3

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I thought the Ranch Wagons were two-door cars.  If that was a two-door I'll bet it would bring well over twenty.  Might anyway...you know, auctions.

BB

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » ooo baby baby YES YES » Today 10:01 AM

Don
Replies: 3

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these a couple of years ago , nice ones  were $8k,  Now I bet on above $14 k  

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Soft Pedal w/ Power Brakes » Today 9:39 AM

How should the brake pedal feel after a bleeding w/ a brake booster installed?  My pedal still feels soft. I can definitely drop it to the floor w/ ease.  And I know that's not supposed to happen.  Car isn't running yet so I can't test the brake booster as there isn't a vacuum on it.  I'm trying to narrow down the problems.  I checked all the connections and didn't see any leaks.  I even did a reverse brake bleeding to get all the air out of the line.  I know the most likely culprit of soft pedal is air in the line or leaks... I'll triple check everything but does anyone know how or if the break booster could play a part?  I have a proportioning valve installed from when the rear brakes were still drums.  Could that be a factor?

thanks

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » ooo baby baby YES YES » Today 8:47 AM

Bullet Bob
Replies: 3

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The perfect Bashmobile...I love it.  What do you think it'll bring?

BB

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 4R70W conversion » Today 7:36 AM

Bullet Bob
Replies: 11

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I do understand, Ron.  Never less than a two day drive for us...Florida was a four day drive each way and we only stayed in state 24 hours.  We'll likely take three days to get to Bob & Cindy's in July.  Yup, if I weren't retired it would be pretty well impossible.  As far as too far for the 68, well, I guess I just think different. 
All the best to you.

BB
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 4R70W conversion » Today 12:17 AM

Ron68
Replies: 11

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Bullet Bob wrote:

Ron68 wrote:

If you are possibly looking for a good rear transmission mount for a 4R70W, Joe Persad at premiergenerator@gmail.com sells a good one. I used his on my 4R70W install to my 351W in my 68.
Check out the picture here: http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=4863

Hi Ron, when are we gonna see you again at a Bash? 
And, what torque converter are you running in your 68?  I've been told that you need to upgrade from the V6 to a V8 TC...and then I've heard that you really don't.

I have an 03 trans plus the 94 computer that I plan to slip into the Heap one of these winters and I don't want to buy a different TC unless I really have to.

Thanks, hope to see you again some day.

BB

The transmission I have in my 68 is from a 1998 F-150 4.2L. I have a V8 stall converter in the transmission. As far as me making it to a bash - They all seem to be out of range for me - always in the deep south or east of the Mississippi. We never seem to have any on the west coast (except for yours in Colorado, which I couldn't make) I have made two in Texas and one in Montana - but maybe when I pull the plug at work, I'll have more time to make one of those far away bashes. It's a very long way to drive my 68 to any of the bashes of late from  Seattle. Once retired, I can maybe take advantage of those travel benefits I have earned from 35 years of twisting wrenches on Alaska Airlines aircraft. Until then, I'll just have to live vicariously by looking at all the photos posted.....
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Alignment issues » Yesterday 11:14 PM

rpm
Replies: 12

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I could measure that way if only I was as ingenious as the guy who designed  the MustangSteve brackets. Those in the pic are the first disc brake brackets I made for my 69 disc spindles.  The second set I made and currently using are on 70 drum spindles. Unfortunately neither set were designed with the proper angled surface.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Alignment issues » Yesterday 10:41 PM

MS
Replies: 12

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Since it appears from the pic you have cobra brakes using MustangSteve brackets, you can simply place a level along the bottom of the bracket, which is perfectly horizontal at zero degrees caster.  Any deviation from that is the actual caster amount.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Wiring routing question for neutral safety switch » Yesterday 10:05 PM

True74yamaha
Replies: 13

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BobE wrote:

True74yamaha wrote:

Seems like great quality wire for the money.
I don't see the heat specs. For the wire.
Striped Tracer Wire

Sherco Auto & Marine Supply's Striped Marine Tracer Primary Wire is constructed from Type III Class K tinned copper. It is then jacketed with a durable, flexible, high quality PVC insulation. This wire meets the requirements and standards of UL, ABYC and NMMA. .


Stranded, Tinned copper conductorsHighly flexible color coded insulationAnnealed Finely Stranded Tinned Copper ASTM b172 Class KResistant to: Acid, Alkali, Abrasion, Flame, Gasoline, Oil, Moisture

Another source I found was.
http://www.racersrods.com/category-s/1821.htm
https://4rcustomswire.com
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/fuse-panel.html

I've used Sherco for several years (wire, fuse blocks, heat shrink, hardware items, etc) and have been pleased with the products they sell.
You may want to look at "Blue Sea" and "Cooper-Bussman" products for fuse blocks.  Blue Sea is more boating related but they make nice compact fuse blocks.

That's awesome great to know!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Alignment issues » Yesterday 8:41 PM

rpm
Replies: 12

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I cut and notched a tube to rest against the threads of the ball joints. I used a spacer for the digital level to clear the spindle, and set the level to get the camber angle. I'm at 5.5° camber.

This method doesn't care which direction the wheels are pointed. It may not be kosher or perfect, but my car handles pretty darn well, and runs true at 130 mph.

http://i68.tinypic.com/6s4ba0.jpg

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 500 edelbrock carb » Yesterday 7:13 PM

6sally6
Replies: 14

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TKOPerformance wrote:

Oh, so the Edelbrock is blasphemy, but an electric fuel pump is one of the seven sacraments?!

What is this new age religion?  We just make it up as we go?  Do whatever you feel? http://cdn.boardhost.com/emoticons/confused.png

 

Yeah...pretty much!
6s6

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Cheap Aluminum Radiators on Ebay - are they worth it? » Yesterday 6:58 PM

BillyC
Replies: 7

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I bought mine from Virginia Classic Mustang a few years back. I don't remember the details accept that it was really inexpensive. It works great and I've had no cooling issues.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Alignment issues » Yesterday 6:43 PM

Grabber Blu
Replies: 12

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rpm wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

The only way to set caster is to take two readings with the wheel turned 20 degrees out and 20 degrees in.   

Not really. You can check & set caster from the upper and lower ball joint threads.


 

Not familiar with that method, could you explain
 

Board footera


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