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FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » which alternator ? » Today 12:57 PM

Alessandro
Replies: 17

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Thanks all , i need to pick up parts and print some specs, then call friends that " speaks electric " and let do the dirty job ....
now pick up the pieces !
Greetings!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » which alternator ? » Today 10:53 AM

Hornman
Replies: 17

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I bought a 1993 Taurus alternator. I comes clocked at 180 degrees, and while I was prepared to modify the tensioning bracket per the data sheet Bullet Bob posted, the Taurus alternator bolted right on using the existing mounting hardware, including the gold spacer.  I did have to change the pulley from the serpentine style that came with it to the V groove from the old alternator. The conversion requires a three wire plug (from Ron Francis) for the 3G alternator  and a Mega-Fuse holder.  The Taurus alternator is rated for 130 Amps, so I installed a 125 amp Mega-Fuse.  The rest of the wiring is my distribution block. I'm kind of the anti-6Sally6, I want all my wiring out where I can see it. Make sure you get that little green wire with the red stripe hooked up, it supplies the voltage excitation signal, without it the alternator does not work. The Taurus alternator has an internal regulator, so you can get rid of that 50 year old one on the radiator brace.
http://i68.tinypic.com/34rg7km.jpg

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 1969 Mustang Front Suspension, SQUIRRELY ON THE ROAD...SHELBY/ARNING » Today 9:53 AM

whlnut
Replies: 11

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M1, your problem still sounds like alignment issues to me. I would check all your components before changing anything. The Arning drop is a good idea.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Driveshaft » Today 9:29 AM

Michael H.
Replies: 4

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Are you saying that the driveshafts are different lengths or just the slip yokes?
If the shafts are the same lengths and the difference is only in the slip yoke length you should be ok.

However, I recently learned that you don't want to run the long yoke in a T5 or the rear bushing won't oil properly (Per Glen B. who is a reputable T5 rebuilder).

Swap Meet » WTB: 8" rear for 66 mustang » Today 9:24 AM

rocklord
Replies: 2

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Yeah, I had to drive 5 hours round trip for an 8" rear end out of a Maverick.
It had 2.80 gears, and needed rebuilt.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » which alternator ? » Today 9:11 AM

Alessandro
Replies: 17

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Rudi wrote:

I would guess that mine is a large body alternator, it is the stock size for a 96 V-6 Mustang
 As for a voltmeter that will replace the stock ammeter, I did see one in a magazine once but I don't have any particulars, perhaps some one else can chime in if they have seen one.
 My voltmeter is an off the shelf Autometer gauge fitted into a modified stock bezel.

Thanks Rudi , For my limited information and knoledge the large 3G case will not fit the 289 mustang 66 i got.
this is what i found on the web and this is why i am so in pain choosin one . I dont wanna buy somehing wrong.

 

Swap Meet » WTB: 8" rear for 66 mustang » Today 9:00 AM

jptucker101
Replies: 2

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I may have found one in Savannah, headed there to hopefully pick it up on Friday morning. Nothing like a 7 hour road trip to pick up mustang parts!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » which alternator ? » Today 8:45 AM

Alessandro
Replies: 17

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Michael H. wrote:

http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-mustang-all#volts

This guy converts the factor amp meters to volt meters.

Yep ! already contact and my ammeter is jet fliyng for convrsion to texas !

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Driveshaft » Today 8:35 AM

BillyC
Replies: 4

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I see that you are from Richmond. Am I correct in assuming that's Richmond Va? If so and you can't find a local and reliable shop to biuld a drive shaft I can recommend Gregory's in Virginia Beach. Might be worth a hour and a half drive and a visit to the Beach. They modified and balanced mine for my 66. They do great work and use quality parts.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Speedometer Needle » Today 8:27 AM

John Ha
Replies: 10

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Phil42 wrote:

I mentioned in a previous post that I had the speedometer

replaced but, it was fine after that. They then, had to go back in to replace the lamps and it was after

that when I noticed it. I would presume it might be the gear.😕

Usually what happens is that the cable is pulled out a bit and the bend radius is decreased when the cluster is pulled out.  The easiest fix is to find where the cable comes through the firewall into the engine compartment and give it a tug.  It should come out a bit and most likely your speedo needle will be steady again.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 1969 Mustang Front Suspension, SQUIRRELY ON THE ROAD...SHELBY/ARNING » Today 8:13 AM

M1Mustang69
Replies: 11

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Thanks Whinut and Husk, Much appreciated....

I had brought those specs to the the alignment guy who says hes familiar (gentleman in his late 40's early 50's) and he claims he got them as close to that as possible....but I truly dont believe him! 

as for my parts, I had my entire suspension replaced 5yrs ago...Springs, shocks, perches....No one since then or as of late doing alignments has said I have bad ball joints or looseness anywhere, but this is why I am doing what I am doing now....Going to replace all my Ball Joints and Bushings ANYWAY.....eliminate the possibility. 

I also figure while Im at it, Do the SHelby/Arning Drop to also further eliminate the possibility......had I known that was an option 5yrs ago I would have not purchased the Lowering springs at all.....

final question, it turns out My upper arms have the 3-BOLT triangle shaped ball joints.....now I have noticed 2 designs with those to boot (annoying).  one is a perfect triangle like shape and the other has the bolts in triangle formation but near the point theres 2 rounded cut outs.......Does This Matter or have specific applications???


http://i65.tinypic.com/2utgosp.jpg
http://i65.tinypic.com/selsuo.jpg

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Damage from Colorado BASH is finally fixed. Picking up in morning. » Today 8:03 AM

DC
Replies: 5

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I picked up one of those roll up back packing sleep mats that is about 3/8 inch thick and fit pieces with contact cement inside the fenders. It is like the stuff the Shelby aluminum bodied Cobras came with back in the day.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Driveshaft » Today 7:59 AM

Ozblitz
Replies: 4

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I just thought it may be the yoke because that is the only difference in the 2 shafts.  I did change the eng, but 5.0 and 289 shouldn't have anything to do with the shaft.  The car suspension is exactly how is was, no modifications were made.
I 'll get a new shaft made to replace the old rusty pitted one.
Thanks

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » which alternator ? » Today 7:29 AM

Rudi
Replies: 17

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I would guess that mine is a large body alternator, it is the stock size for a 96 V-6 Mustang
 As for a voltmeter that will replace the stock ammeter, I did see one in a magazine once but I don't have any particulars, perhaps some one else can chime in if they have seen one.
 My voltmeter is an off the shelf Autometer gauge fitted into a modified stock bezel.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Driveshaft » Today 7:05 AM

First off, you need to get a shaft that's right in the car.  I would just have one built locally.  Probably looking at less than $250.  I use a shop down by here that does heavy truck parts and they have a driveshaft shop and a guy that is amazing with them.  Here's a link to how to measure for shaft length:

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/how_to_measure.html

Take that and your old shaft to the shop and they can reuse your yokes, etc. if they are in serviceable shape.

On that clunk I will bet you have a driveshaft angle issue.  Especially if you've used an aftermarket poly trans mount.  Often they are too tall and cause issues.  Also, if the car has been lowered at all it will cause issues.  We chased a similar issue on my buddy's '95 Cobra for about a year before we finally figure out that the trans mount was now too tall and once we modified the crossmember to lower the tailshaft it went away. 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 351W build, where to start » Today 6:57 AM

I agree to a point with 6sally6.  There are some very good books out there.  The issue I've found is that most of those books deal with stock type rebuilds, which isn't what you're doing.  There's a lot of nuances to building a dedicated high performance engine be it for street or track, because there are considerations you simply don't have to worry about with stock type parts.  For example, an aftermarket rod and crank are designed to fit together a specific way because the crank has a wide fillet where the rod throw meets the counterweight for strength.  Each rod has a side that has a wide relief and a narrow relief.  This makes it so that the pistons can only go on the rods one way.  If you get it backwards the crank will be locked immobile if you try to put it together, or you'll find you won't be able to get both rods on a pin.  I've yet to find that kind of detail specific to aftermarket parts in a book.

The top end is no different because now you'll have pushrod guide plates for example.  How do you set the clearance on those?  How do you check valvetrain geometry?

I'm not mentioning all this to scare you off of trying to do it yourself.  I figured it out once and I'm sure you can too.  Just be prepared because sometimes this process can be a two steps forward two steps back kind of deal.  There's certainly help here and some great articles on the web, but this may take you a lot longer than you think it should to get it right.

The guys "back in the day" mostly figured this stuff out by trial and error and wrote the book we now read.  If you read through some of the stuff from those guys you'll be amazed at how much they knew before it was "common knowledge".  Guys like Smokey Yunick who built his own flow bench and used to sneak wind tunnel time from guys in the aviation industry.  Even my neighbor, who was a very successful Pontiac racer and car builder from the '50s-'70s is an amazing guy to talk to.  The stuff they figured out just sh

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » which alternator ? » Today 1:14 AM

Alessandro
Replies: 17

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Rudi wrote:

Alessandro wrote:

i have found this : 
http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/i-24486302-alternator-140-amp-hybrid-oem-wire-v-groove-pulley-factory-cast-plus-7078nj.html

Please let me know if is right . i can ask for  oem 3 wire and add the external regulator right ?

 Hi Alessandro, I would not use the one from Tuffstuff,  it is a 1st gen alternator with internal upgrades. It has an external fan compared to the 3-g which has an internal fan and regulator. I don't think that your existing original wiring will handle that one if you intend to plug and play it.

 The 3g needs some upgraded wiring but will give as much output at idle as the original alternator at full output.
 The one I used is like this one from RockAuto ( Remy 92313), about $135 CDN It is a short eared one used on V-6's.
 This alternator can be clocked to put the plug sockets wher you need them, I did.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1998,mustang,3.8l+v6,1304468,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412
 You will have to use an different adjuster and bracket as  the O/E one will  not work.
 I made one up very similar this from Summit just because I could and  they cost about $70 USD.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-420104/overview/
 I also found that the original ammeter is basicly worthless, thats why I suggest a voltmeter.

 Ater I got mine I decided that it was too dull so I did this to it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/kechke/Polish%203-G/PICT0127.jpg


Before I reasembled it,  the stator and rotor were painted with "Glyptal" a coating used to prevent corrosion in the electrical industry.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/kechke/Polish%203-G/PICT0135.jpg


Here it is installed.
[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kechke/media/Polish%203-G/PICT

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Damage from Colorado BASH is finally fixed. Picking up in morning. » Today 12:10 AM

Kelly_H
Replies: 5

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Oh man, you actually fix your road damage???

Guess I've been unkind to my car then. I've got chips out of the quarters in the corners of the "C" body line, about a million chips on the front valance, a spot of paint the size of a quarter missing on the hood, and some paint missing at the base of the sail inserts on both sides. And the windshield is now sporting two large cracks. Road rocks are no joke!

 And don't get me started on the rear valance, which is both missing paint and dented from an adventure in which I very abruptly jumped Jane off of a very tall 8" curb, and the right quarter, which is rippled from... well, another adventure.

Figure I'll need to paint my car every 5 or 6 years at this rate... http://cdn.boardhost.com/emoticons/stoned.png

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Floor Board Dimmer switch location? » Yesterday 10:08 PM

Rufus68
Replies: 7

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When I replaced the carpet in my '68 coupe, it came with the hole for the dimmer already punched.  Luckily, my dimmer was exactly where the hole in the carpet was.  Actually, I never considered that it might have been moved.

Bottom line, the stock location for the dimmer will probably be expected if or when you replace the carpet.  Something to consider.

Show Your Mustang Pictures and History » New Member » Yesterday 9:53 PM

Awesome!  I am working on a 1969 Coupe, can't wait to see more progress on your car.

Show Your Mustang Pictures and History » My 68 » Yesterday 9:48 PM

Lots of work, great results, nice video.  Thanks for sharing.

Board footera


REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on.