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Swap Meet » Autolite 4100 Carburetor 1.12-1.08 bore adapters » 11/06/2018 7:37 PM

Daze
Replies: 0

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This kit is two copper sleeves to size down the bore of a 1.12 Autolite 4100 carburetor for improved throttle response. Each set is hand made and test fit in a 4100 carburetor, they are a tight fit but can be pressed in by hand.  However do to tolerance in manufacturing in the 60s some slight fitting may be required.  I had one customer (the first quote below) that the adapter was loose in one of his two bores (issue with the manufacturing of his carburetor) but the sleeves still functioned flawlessly.THIS KIT WILL NOT TURN A 1.12 CARBURETOR INTO A 1.08 CARBURETOR
If you want a 1.12 carburetor to function exactly like a 1.08 carburetor you would need to install these sleeves, change the jets to meet your engine specs AND change/modify the boosters.

What these sleeves WILL do without any other modification is improve throttle response and make it easier to install a big block 4100 on to a small block

Quotes from customers who are running these sleeves:"Instant difference in throttle response and almost completely eliminated the hesitation off of idle, very impressed.” "The Venturi reducers have been installed and I am very pleased in how the car is running."$29.99  +  $4.50 S&H

Link to my web site where they are for sale
 
https://www.dazecars.com/dazed/UYI8gU.jpg


https://www.dazecars.com/dazed/OgOVCD.jpg

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Greg Bolin’s son passed away last night. » 10/14/2018 9:53 PM

Daze
Replies: 24

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Greg,
So sorry to hear about your loss.  Thinking of you and your family in this tough time.

MustangSteve Annual Bash Info » Bash XV is now in the history books » 9/16/2018 3:56 PM

Daze
Replies: 47

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Fun trip!!  Great to see old friends and meet a bunch of new ones. Thanks to everyone that worked so hard to make this a fantastic event.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » O2 sensor and Air/Fuel mixture gauge » 8/12/2018 9:51 AM

Daze
Replies: 13

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I can't take credit for the idea.  I got it from this video on youtube.  Its a good video and worth watching all the way through.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Engine run stand... WITH VIDEO » 8/11/2018 8:48 PM

Daze
Replies: 10

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gjz30075 wrote:

Nicely done!  Painting it Ford Blue would really complete the jobhttp://cdn.boardhost.com/emoticons/smile.png


Once I am done playing with the 351 (have not done anything other than start it a few times to make sure it and the stand were working correctly) the stand will go to the powder coater for a black with silver veining running through it for the main parts and gloss black for the engine mount and bellhousing mount

MS wrote:

Now, add a T5 to it and drive that thing to the bash!

I'm not known for driving to the bash http://cdn.boardhost.com/emoticons/happy.png


MS wrote:

What were the initial O2 readings on that engine/carb?

It was showing lean but I never let it get to operating temp and have not done anything with the engine other than start it a couple times to make sure the stand and the engine were working.  I haven't even adjusted the carburetor or the timing.

Carb came off of a running 351 but different cam and heads and CR
and the timing was eyeballed by putting the pointer at 10 BTDC and dropping the distributor in and lining up the rotor with #1

rpm wrote:

Very nice Daze. I like the switch to get O2 readings from either header. What did that entail to hook up?

It was very simple I just used a 3 prong switch.  The O2 sensor goes to the middle prong and the O2 wires go to the prong opposite the side of the engine the O2 sensor is on.  
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Engine run stand... WITH VIDEO » 8/10/2018 10:05 PM

Daze
Replies: 10

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For those that have not seen the thread, I spent a lot of time over the last 4 months building an engine run stand.  I fired it up about 2 weeks ago but then life got crazy and I was never able to get the video shot.  Here is the video

https://youtu.be/zpTKM01gbEc

Thanks to everyone that gave suggestions and also thanks to Greg B for hooking me up with some of the parts.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Started building my engine run stand today » 7/20/2018 9:45 PM

Daze
Replies: 63

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Made a little noise today!!! 
https://youtu.be/ZlbSB9vo5uw
proof of concept that it will be running soon

Still need to:

run fuel line
run vacuum lines
connect mufflers to header
connect gages
wire fan

Almost there.  It was almost as much work to plumb and wire everything as it was to do the initial fabrication.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Started building my engine run stand today » 7/19/2018 1:09 PM

Daze
Replies: 63

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Holds up great as long as it is specifically designed for headers. Regular powder coating would not handle the heat.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Started building my engine run stand today » 7/19/2018 9:07 AM

Daze
Replies: 63

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Those headers look great!!  this was my second time modifying header tubes.

The first time was for my R&P install.  The steering shaft and one header tube were trying to occupy the same space so I cut out the tube and curved it around the shaft

https://imageshack.com/a/img921/1453/tggUl6.jpg


a little welding later and it was a solid tube again
https://imageshack.com/a/img921/9725/gKz2nI.jpg


I ground this one and it looked way better than the one I just put together.
https://imageshack.com/a/img922/4932/ojkbHA.jpg


Powdercoating makes all the difference
https://imageshack.com/a/img924/5583/tYA8ef.jpg

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Started building my engine run stand today » 7/18/2018 10:17 PM

Daze
Replies: 63

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The perfectionist in me struck again.  I didn't like how I had to dent in that one header tube for clearance The headers are "part of the engine stand" so I decided to modify them to clear the support.  

I cut out the dented section.

https://imageshack.com/a/img921/3443/RH0r4H.jpg


I then cut pie shaped sections out of a piece of strait tube and bent it to replace the cut section and clear the engine support.
https://imageshack.com/a/img921/9048/D0NS4B.jpg


I then welded the section into the header.  Looks horrible but will do the job.
https://imageshack.com/a/img924/6236/zSGgZT.jpg


I also fabricated up a battery tray.  
https://imageshack.com/a/img923/4600/xgvMZI.jpg



https://imageshack.com/a/img921/2608/bp79hx.jpg


I have some wiring to do and then it should be ready to fire up.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Started building my engine run stand today » 7/11/2018 5:55 PM

Daze
Replies: 63

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2 steps backwards two steps forward!!

Upon further inspection I realized that running the header upside down will only work if I chose not to run spark plugs.  Since I kind of need them I spent the better part of the day modifying things to make them work.  I only had to hammer in a few spots to get them to fit and I had already modified my bellhousing mount to be narrower so it looks like the headers will do the job.

https://imageshack.com/a/img922/6803/gY3hRG.jpg


After getting the headers sorted out I installed a few more small parts and then made a list of everything else I needed from the auto parts store and went and got it.  Hoping to do a test fire in the next couple pf days.  yes there will be video

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Started building my engine run stand today » 7/11/2018 9:24 AM

Daze
Replies: 63

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Steve69 wrote:

  Did you find one with a steel gear or did you change the gear?    What year Distributor and where did you buy it?  Thanks
 

I never could get a strait answer as to what gear I needed.  Some places had cast iron listed, other places said steel.  My solution was to buy a duraspark distributor for a late 70s to early 80s 351W. Then I simply swapped out the gears between the new distributor and the distributor that came with the engine.  I knew the gear that came on the 94 OEM distributor was the correct one for the camshaft and by doing it that way I would have exactly what I needed.


Michael H. wrote:

Looks great!  You're making me want to build one!

It has been a fun project.  I won't use it that often so I probably wouldn't have done it had I nedded to buy everything.  All the steel and parts probably would have run me close to $500 or more but since I had most o f what I needed I don't have much into it, those parts are getting used and this is going to be a fantastic tool for break-ins, tuning or if I need to sell a running engine.
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Started building my engine run stand today » 7/10/2018 9:32 PM

Daze
Replies: 63

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Steve69 wrote:

Looks Great!  What distributor did you end up going with the roller camshaft? 

I just used a stock duraspark distributor.  I always use an MSD 6a box so the distributor is nothing more than a trigger.  I have it set at 10º advanced for initial start up and than will fine tune it after I fire it up.

 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Started building my engine run stand today » 7/10/2018 5:06 PM

Daze
Replies: 63

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Getting closer.  The 351W is all sealed up and now its just a mater of getting everything hooked up on the run stand.  Glad I weighted to have it powder coated until after I used it the first time.  Already had to make a couple of modifications to the stand.
https://imageshack.com/a/img922/8133/udCdq6.jpg

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » A $5 fix for a $55 problem » 6/15/2018 9:46 PM

Daze
Replies: 9

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Well I made this adapter because I didn't have any aluminum to machine, and I didn't think anything was available in the aftermarket (I hadn't looked) But then I was thinking about something TKOPerformance said

TKOPerformance wrote:

Spacers like this are not uncommon, but every one I've ever seen has been aluminum or steel.  

and it got me thinking maybe something is available in the aftermarket.  turns out summit racing sells exactly what I need and it's less than $20.00

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large500/pfs-81006_w_500.jpg


 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » A $5 fix for a $55 problem » 6/15/2018 9:41 PM

Daze
Replies: 9

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HudginJ3 wrote:

I'm thinking of the clamping force between the pulley and the damper. There is none.

Sure there is.  The clamping force is between the pulley, the steel sleeves and the balancer.  
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » A $5 fix for a $55 problem » 6/15/2018 9:13 AM

Daze
Replies: 9

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I’m not to worried about the heat or the long term longevity of the pvc. Once the pulley is torqued down the ring has done its job and is not needed. All the pressure is on the steel sleeves. And because it’s torqued down the parts aren’t going to move even if the PVC fell out.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » A $5 fix for a $55 problem » 6/14/2018 11:01 PM

Daze
Replies: 9

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I am still working on getting my 351 put back together.  I mocked up the accessories the other day and discovered a problem.  The crank pulley that came on the engine does not line up with the water pump and alternator pulleys for the accessory brackets I have.

https://imageshack.com/a/img923/770/59rYRl.jpg


The obvious solution is to use a metal spacer between the pulley and the balancer, but the problem is the crank pulley is centered on the balancer by a ring.  I thought about machining a piece of aluminum to both center the pulley and act as a spacer but wanted to keep everything as light as possible to minimize balance issues.  After measuring lots of things laying around my garage, I found that a 2" PVC elbow flange fit tightly of the lip on the balancer and was the perfect diameter to center the pulley.
https://imageshack.com/a/img924/9523/VHOr7a.jpg


I had to do a little machining to get the flange the correct fit but it was way easier than making something from scratch.  I also made 4 steel spacers so none of the torquing pressure is on the centering ring.
https://imageshack.com/a/img923/2286/Z5mROG.jpg


When installed the pulleys lined up perfectly.  looks a little off in the first picture but its just the camera angle.
https://imageshack.com/a/img923/1498/Az4SWb.jpg


https://imageshack.com/a/img923/5922/qLNZKW.jpg


here is a closeup of the centering ring and steel spacers.
https://imageshack.com/a/img923/6514/oeMzvV.jpg


From the front it lines up the pulley perfectly.
https://imageshack.com/a/img922/7941/snDXBU.jpg


I will give all 5 spacers a cote of black paint and then it will look like OEM equipment.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Anyone ever use RTV in place of the paper gaskets on the timing cover » 6/10/2018 3:00 PM

Daze
Replies: 8

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MS wrote:

I would not use just RTV on timing cover or water pump or intake. . Reason is those are pressurized passages. Valve covers and oil pan are not pressurized.

I never thought of it that way and that makes perfect sense.  High pressure vrs low pressure is a fantastic rule of thumb going forward, thanks for pointing that out.  
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Never used a 2 piece fuel pump eccentric before » 6/08/2018 10:50 PM

Daze
Replies: 5

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MS wrote:

Be sure to use the shorter camshaft dowel and the timing set with the raised boss so the outer ring has clearance to spin freely. The earlier versions designed for one piece eccentric will not work with the two piece.

Great point.  This is the stock 94 setup so it is already set up for both of those things.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Anyone ever use RTV in place of the paper gaskets on the timing cover » 6/08/2018 3:38 PM

Daze
Replies: 8

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and for the water pump?  I know RTV is fantastic for intakes, rear ends, even oil pan gaskets but was wondering if there was some issue I was missing in using it for the front assembly of the engine. (I have only ever used the actual gaskets)  My 351 is all black other than the bare aluminum heads and RTV would probably look a lot cleaner than bright blue gaskets, any thoughts, experience and or advice??

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Crankshaft sleeve, $75 tool.. NO, hammer it.. NO home made tool.. YES » 5/25/2018 10:53 PM

Daze
Replies: 13

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Even though my sleeve was already installed and I probably won't need to use this tool for some time, the perfectionist in me couldn't leave it alone.  I cut a hole in the middle and rounded off the outside.  I also used a stamp "0" to mark where the plate lines up with the extra hole in the crank to make it line up easily on installation.

https://imageshack.com/a/img923/7627/KogpDS.jpg

Board footera


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