Put a big block in it or show us some pictures haha.

TKOPerformance wrote:

First off, dropping the front end 2" what had been done for camber correction?

Second, the Shelby drop is a much better mod than just lowering the front end.  By lowering the UCA mounting point 1" and moving it rearward the camber curve is improved and positive caster is improved.

I didn't realize that the Shelby drop made that much of an improvment. I've only rebuilt the front end, dropped the front and allighned the car. I did have custom adjustable upper and lower control arms with coil overs. I parted with them since I was offered a dang good pennie for them. I am thinking I'm going to build another set for my car  since my ride was a lot better. I'm also thinking about making some adjustable strut arms.

Last edited by True74yamaha (2/26/2017 9:10 PM)

Out of curiosity when am I supposed to add a negative wedge kit after lowering the front end?

First:  Send us a photo. 
There are many ideas of what constitutes an optimal stance.  For me that is a 12-13" distance from the front wheel hub straight up to the lower edge of the front fender.  Tire and rim size should not matter much as our tires have much the same radius regardless of the other dimensions.

It sounds like you have returned to stock front a-arms and lower control arm.  When you put everything together did you leave the lower arm mounting nuts loose when you put it down on the ground?  If you tightened them down first, the front end will sit quite a bit higher due to the bushing bind that occurs.  Jack the front end back up.  Loosen the mounting nuts down to finger tightness.  Then lower the car back to the ground and only then tighten the nuts.

Forget the negative wedge kit until you get the ride height where you want it.  Its purpose is to reduce bump steer.  No bump steer - no negative wedge needed.  Get the suspension right then check for bump steer.  A negative wedge kit may or may not change things.  I had one and it made absoultly no difference.  Different folks have different  results.  The only sure way to get rid of bump steer is to convert to rack and pinion steering.

Last edited by lowercasesteve (2/26/2017 11:53 PM)

I've been researching stance for my upcoming mod quest on my '66 coupe.  Almost everybody I researched have cut the springs about 1/4 coil even after the 1" lowering springs and shelby/arning drop.

I don't see any issue with cutting the springs by that much, especially if you're just going to be cruising with a little spirited driving thrown in.  Just take off a little at a time, though, because cut springs will settle.

Awesome thank you so much for all the replies. I will post up some pics of my car to show how it sits now. On another note since I couldn't  sleep for anything last night. I decided to  look up some materials to make some tubular control arms again for my car.  if I wanted I could convert to Qa1 coil overs. This would eliminate the spring perch since the coil over spring mounts in that position. Pretty cool set up and its very easy to fabricate. Cool thing is I can build the tubular control arms and when I decided to get new shocks and coils I can just swap in some coil overs. I found the perfect set of coil overs. They mach the compressed  and extended length to the factory sized shock very closely. Stock shocks have a 4.95 stroke the new coils produce a 5.00" stroke pretty cool. The only thing about the coil overs is they will need a reinforced upper mounting plate. They use a single mount position instead of two on the top. 
Its kinda funny what the mind comes up with when its tired lol. I'll post links to parts and pictures of the parts for that swap for those that are interested.

Car doesn't look so bad. It just shows that you have an "in process" car like most folks on the forum.

The LOOK is free. You don't have to buy a bunch of expensive crap that does nothing in order to achieve it.  The negative wedge kit will raise the car a bit and just is not needed.

Your car is old.  It probably needs new springs anyway.  Just buy the ones that will get it where you want it and then add the Shelby drop.  No other parts are needed in order to get this stance.

The key is to do your research BEFORE spending money on parts.

TKOPerformance wrote:

MS wrote:

The key is to do your research BEFORE spending money on parts.

Truer words were never spoken.

 
I agree I always do reasearch first before buying parts. I mainly was looking for suggestions on lowering the front end. My entire front steering suspension are new. The coils I know are going to loosen up and be lower then where its out now.  I guess I'm just going to do the Shelby drop, upgrade to roller perch and cut my coils

Are you sure you have an engine in that thing? Sorry, couldn't resist. Trial and error time.  Personally I'd do the upper arm drop first. Some, like me, experienced a nearly 2 inch drop in ride height where only a 1/2 inch is reportedly possible/likely. Go figure. Then I would let it settle a while and then start cutting fractions of coils until you get it there.  Eibach springs may not be as forgiving as stockers when cut. I don't know, you may turn them into I-beams they might stiffen up so much, or the change in spring rate may be unnoticeable.

Last edited by Muzz 66 (3/06/2017 1:15 AM)

The coil springs are a progressive rate coil. I just looked them up they are a 500lb rated coilspring, and they are a 1" drop coil. They are the most expensive ones they offfer for a 65 mustang.

Last edited by True74yamaha (3/07/2017 11:21 PM)