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Started out as a simple(yeah-right!) clutch rod adjustment and ended up dropping the Z-bar and "fixing" the little wooden balls on either end of it........re-lubed and re-installed.
Since I am using a newer block without the Z-bar pivot on the block I made(or bought..can't remember) a piece to hold a pivot ball.
The question is......does everbodys Z-bar run level between the engine block and the front frame mount?
Mine is sorta at a down angle. Since I have heim joints on the linkage it runs true butt....the Z is at a down angle.
What's ya'lls look like?
thanx
6sally6
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The Z-bars I've dealt with were horizontal from frame to engine block, at least by eyesight.
Ones that were off horizontal, would wear the pivot out. Note that these were pretty severely out from being level.
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....Update.......
Looks like I'll be looking into a MS clutch cable set-up! Waited two hours on AAA today........nuff said!
6sal6
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Sorry to hear.... Your car is elegant in its simplicity. Just get the shaft bearing mod on the pedal support, and keep the z-bar to maintain that old school theme.
I have the stock z bar stuff on the 65, and the full blown MS booster/cable clutch setup on the 66. It is a beautiful thing, if you want to head toward that modernization target.
Which bell housing/clutch fork do you have?
Last edited by TimC (3/28/2017 9:56 AM)
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6SALLY6,
I have had the MS clutch cable for over 3 years. You will not be disappointed. Easy to install. Easy to adjust. Works Great! Suggest clutch pedal bearings while you are at it.
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Sal
Sounds like the thingamajig you are using on the engine side of the z-bar needs a bit of reworking. If you decide to tackle that job, with your skill set I would figure about two hours, or in my reference, about three beers. I would suggest the two hours. Then the three beers.
Best,
Al
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My Z bar ran downhill like yours. When we installed the new headers, the engine was raised slightly which effectively leveled the bar. With a little fine tuning, my pedal is as smooth as any cable or hydraulic unit I've ever driven. My entire clutch linkage (including the pedal) is bone stock. I did not require retrofit bearings to get the pedal I was looking for, just some patience and care in the installation. That original Ford design can be made to work like new, or better!
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You got's a problem if you are not using the MS cable clutch/ball bearing cable assembly. Mine is one of the best things I did for my Mustang. Just works Great! My car has a clutch that used to need a Sumo Wrestler to push it, but now is a smooth as "silk" . My 5 year old can push the clutch and gets Great Delight of doing it!
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Yep!!!!!! Heard nothing butt good stuff (or was it good butt stuff?!) about MS's clutch cable modification.
I did the bearing update years ago..prolly right after MS "invented"it. Bearings made a huge improvement. (Slicker'n snot,really!)
The bracket holding the Z-bar on the engine is the prob...I think. Haven't really checked it since I got it home. I'm "punishing it " for a few days before I crawl back under it. Just make it sit in the drive for a few days....maybe it will learn its lesson next time!!
Just tard of "adjusting/modifying" the bar...ready to get something simpler. Some times...."simple-is-good"!
6s6
Last edited by 6sally6 (3/28/2017 7:46 PM)
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Yabutt...Do you have a 5.0 type bell housing that will accept the cable lashup?
Just hate to see such a simple idea go the way most of mine go.
BB
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Funny you should axe!
I was just gonna axe...how is the cable attached to my bell housing.
I will hafta look. Its been so long ago...I can't remember if I have the old 3 speed bell housing (that was in the car originally) or did I use the T-5 bell?!
I think..........(dangerous statement!).......its the T-5 because I remember I had to install the fulcrum for the throw-out bearing lever to work.
If that's the case...I guess I have a T-5 housing....which should work.
How DOES the clutch cable attach to the bell? That part has me baffled. Does it come with the MS cable kit?
Maybe Al McGee or one of the others(like DC) who have installed it will enlighten me/us! (OR Steve!)
6s6
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Even if you are already using a T5 bellhousing you'll still have to change to a T5 pull-type clutch fork instead of the 4-speed push-type clutch fork. I'm pretty sure you'll have to pull the bellhousing to do this.
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Sal, you need to test your memory.... If you installed one of those spacer plates between your tranny & bell housing when you did the T5 swap, then you used a 66ish bell. If you did not install the spacer, then you would have used the Fox bell to accommodate the longer T5 input shaft.
The T5 bell has a tab cast into it that holds the lower end of the cable housing. You will also need to get the fox clutch fork that accommodates the cable end. I forget if it requires a starter change.....
Or, you could order the 5.0 block side pivot thingy from your favorite vendor, and by the time the brown truck delivers it, your anger will have subsided, and you can install the pivot and be cruising in an hour.
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Seemtame, Sal that you will need to pull the trans to change the throw-out arm, as Michael says, at the very least. I like Tim's idee. KISS!!
BB
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TimC wrote:
I forget if it requires a starter change.....
.
Starter change?!
You're right about the bell............I didn't use a spacer so it MUST be the T-5. I had to tap and install a fulcrum so the clutch arm would work.
What's the diff between the 66 clutch arm and the arm needed for cable?
'Preciate all the help fellas!!
6s6
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Now what the heck could possibly go wrong that required you to wait on AAA?? I've driven for over ten thousand miles on my misaligned Z bar in the past (didn't know it was misaligned, but turns out that's what happens when you use the wrong lower clutch rod and the wrong upper clutch rod and no bushings whatsoever in the rotating part of the assembly LOL).
Seems to me like a Z bar would be easier to fix than installing a new cable clutch. But I guess if you're going for that cable feel, then it's not a problem.
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6sally6 wrote:
TimC wrote:
I forget if it requires a starter change.....
.Starter change?!
You're right about the bell............I didn't use a spacer so it MUST be the T-5. I had to tap and install a fulcrum so the clutch arm would work.
What's the diff between the 66 clutch arm and the arm needed for cable?
'Preciate all the help fellas!!
6s6
The one you have pushes to the rear, pivots on the left side make the TO move forward. The cable pulls to the front and the TO arm pivots on the passenger end to make the TO move forward. In other woids, Sal, you will have to undu what you did to use that bell with the z-bar. So you will have to pull the trans and maybe the bell.
BB
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4-speed clutch fork - rod pushes clutch fork
T-5 clutch fork - cable pulls clutch fork
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6sally6 wrote:
TimC wrote:
I forget if it requires a starter change.....
.Starter change?!
You're right about the bell............I didn't use a spacer so it MUST be the T-5. I had to tap and install a fulcrum so the clutch arm would work.
What's the diff between the 66 clutch arm and the arm needed for cable?
'Preciate all the help fellas!!
6s6
Didn't mean to add confusion. I can't remember if you have to change starters if you go from the 66 bell to the T5 bell. You have already confirmed that you have the T5 bell so no starter change is needed.
In addition to the T5 clutch arm, you will also need the T5 clutch fork arm pivot thingy. It is a little screw in part with a round head. In the top pic MichaelH posted, you can see the threaded boss in the T5 case off the end of the "push" style clutch arm. The pivot point is hidden under the arm in the bottom photo.
Hopefully you didn't remove the cable tab from your T5 bell to make your car lighter/faster when you installed that bell.... Are you running a 3 finger style clutch?
Last edited by TimC (3/30/2017 12:42 PM)
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TimC wrote:
In addition to the T5 clutch arm, you will also need the T5 clutch fork arm pivot thingy. It is a little screw in part with a round head. In the top pic MichaelH posted, you can see the threaded boss in the T5 case off the end of the "push" style clutch arm. The pivot point is hidden under the arm in the bottom photo.
Yep...this little guy... and you'll need a different throwout bearing to match the T-5 clutch fork.
To me, sticking with the Z-bar is sounding better and better.
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