Terry,
Match the water pump style to the one you removed.  I believe the early engines had the exposed impeller because the early timing chain cover design served as the backing plate for the H20 pump.

Seal: replace it if you think it's necessary

Fuel pump: you already have one, I'd use it. If it goes tango uniform, it's easy enough to replace then.

Eccentric: visit LateModelRestoraton.com..........they have what you need. If you have any questions, shoot them an email or pick up the phone.  They're great to work with.....

Now, get wrenching....


 

I've always gotten over 100,000 miles out of my water pumps.  Fuel pumps, close to 300,000 miles!  

​10,000 miles - keep both unless you have some of that Chinese crap.

My worry with a used fuel pump is the diaphragm being deteriorated from previous use and air getting to it sitting on the shelf. It could leak out on the ground or into the motor.

But the way parts get mdae these days, a new pump could do the same thing, I guess.

Change the timing cover seal cause your already that far into it.

Terry, I'm with Mike. Great time to add a cam.
For you and your 2+2 a Comp Cam XE266HR PN 35-514-8. This Xtreme Energy cam measures 216/224 degrees of duration at 0.050 inch of valve lift, 0.544/ 0.555 inch of valve lift, and uses a 112-lobe separation angle. Perfect for a stockish 5.0 H O, strong low end torque.
O course Mikey would want more Rumpty Rump

Corky

For those who have put A/C in their cars, The instructions say to remove the drivers side fresh air vent and cap it off.  WHY??

I'm thinking I'm going to leave it just so I can get some fresh air!!

terry wrote:

For those who have put A/C in their cars, The instructions say to remove the drivers side fresh air vent and cap it off.  WHY??

I'm thinking I'm going to leave it just so I can get some fresh air!!

 

I left my driver side fresh air vent inner place.

Tubo wrote:

terry wrote:

.......remove the drivers side fresh air vent and cap it off.  WHY??

I'm thinking I'm going to leave it just so I can get some fresh air!!

Yeah Buddy. I with you on that.
Now, bout that cam......

Tubo
 

You cammers!  let me say this in a manner you will all understand, NO!!
 

Best I recall, the cast iron style water pumps could be found with both open impellers and closed impellers.  The thought back in the day was that the closed impellers were more efficient, but I never found much difference.  As for your fuel pump eccentric, you may have to have to have a machine shop thin the eccentric down a bit to clear the cover.  Cannot remember how much for sure but about 1/10 inch or so.  Maybe that needs to be done if you are running a double roller timing chain and a single roller chain may not need a thinner eccentric.  Time robs me of specific details.  Sorry
Best
Al
P.S.  Great time for a cam change.  Cannot get on board with recommended mega-rumpy cams previously discussed, but there are several good choices to give more energy without sacrificing economy.

Last edited by Al Newman (11/05/2017 4:54 PM)

Verify the tming sprocket has proper endplay when tightened to the cam. 
Verify the chain clears the block (some don’t). 

I guess I don't understand these two.  I am NOT changing my cam or timing set all I intend on doing is removing the timing cover and add the eccentric then putting the timing cover back on and reassembling the engine. I am going to order a procomp eccentric kit
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6287AK/1979-85-Mustang-Engine-Finishing-Hardware-Kit-Carbureted

I think i modified the timing cover when I installed it for the modern seal

As far as my spirit of adventure, It has nothing to do with that. it has everything to do with my butt sitting in that seat for long periods.  37 years of working construction has taken its toll on this body and it makes sitting in these seats very painful after just a couple hours.  Modern seats I can go a bit longer.  If I ride in my 65 for longer than a couple hours my legs and feet go numb making it very uncomfortable and dangerous.  Kinda hard to hit the brakes when you cant feel your feet.


 

I just installed Vintage A/C Gen IV “SureFit” in my 65 Mustang …

• You can leave the divers side vent in place if you want.  The Vintage system is always ‘on’, so you get ‘conditioned’ air (cold or hot) whatever the temp setting.
• If you’re using a V-belt system, you need the 3-groove crank pulley, not the two-groove pulley that Vintage indicates in their literature.
• I found routing the new A/C and defrost hoses to be a challenge under the dashboard.  It gets pretty crowded under the dash.  Pay attention to these hoses and interference w/the windshield wiper mechanism as the articulating windshield wiper arms need clearance from rubbing on the hoses.
• I have a 351W in my 65, the extra height of the engine made connecting to the new heater hoses and the new heater controller a struggle.  My setup is a bit of a Rube-Goldberg with 90° hoses and hose clamps.
• The Vintage kit comes w/both 3/8” and 7/16” bolts for the compressor mounting bracket. Lone spacers (5”) are provided to support the bracket to the head and are 7/16” id.  With my Edelbrock heads, I needed to use the 7/16” bolts and I had to enlarge the id of the long spacers so that the bolts didn’t jam inside, and to provide some wiggle room to mate properly w/the head.

 
I am using a Summit mechanical fuel pump and am happy with it.
Be careful when not using a gasket on the water pump.  If your style pump doesn’t have the integral backing plate, verify the impeller doesn't rub on the timing chain cover.
I installed a FlowKooler pump and am happy with it.
I suggest changed the front seal while you’ve got it apart.
 

I thought you had the Fox seats like our's in your car, Terry.   Guess not.  Anyway, we have 87ish Fox seats with TMI upholstery and I our car is very comfy.  I know this to be true because it doesn't bother me any more than either of our modern cars.  Also, I have a very sophisticated and sensitive vehicle comfort monitor normally attached to the passenger seat and I have had no alarms indicated...even after a number of 500+ mile days.  The only thing that bothers me is that these cars need another inch or two of steering column length for me.  When the seat is back far enough for my legs, the steering wheel is a bit too far forward.  Cruise control helps and the power lumbar support is a huge help but I still stop and walk around a bit every two hours or so, butt, I do that with the other vehicles also.

Sorry you can't enjoy your car on a road trip.  We did over 3300 miles on the bash trip (over 6K for the summer) and the short visit notwithstanding, the road trip was great...just too damned long for such short fun.  But that would have been true in any car.

BB