When I put a set of Shelby ten spokes on my 68 with o/e front disks I had to grind some off of the calipers and use a 1/8” wheel spacer. The rims also had to have a portion of unmachined surface to be turned off.
Alessandro, I would not be too concerned if you have to use a thin spacer, and if needed relieve some of the interference from the caliber as long as there is enough material there.

If you decide to grind on the calipers a bit, take a 1/8” drill bit and drill 1/16” deep holes in several locations where you want to grind. Then grind until the holes barely disappear. That is about the only way to measure how deep you are grinding.

I am quite surprised your calipers are different. Where did you buy them. That seems totally unacceptable that a replacement caliper won’t clear OEM wheels.

My SSBC calipers cleared OEM 14" steel wheels just fine.  They are a 4 piston KH style I believe (though not OEM).

I wouldn't hesitate to use MS's suggestion for grinding the calipers.

Might be worth asking the supplier about it though.  I have to agree that a replacement caliper should fit OEM wheels because that's the application for which the calipers were made.

BTW, your English is getting quite good! 

the caliper story is neverending .....
i bought the spacers for all the wheels and more problem are coming out now with the stud that becoming shorter....
now nuts are only 6 thread turn and dont give me enough safe , especially on rear  !
that means a new set of stud and bolt for all the wheels. 
Now the restoration is going like this " i fix 1 thing and 2 more comes out  wrong ! "

But is not finish yet !  the new calipers are bleeding everywhere ,and pics shows from the bolt that keeps caliper toghether , oil is going to rust all that. 

Now old and new calipers are at brake shop trying to get one pair good to be used -
i could be unlucky with these couple but like other problems i can see that spare parts quality sometimes is not what i expected . 
bye !

Finding longer studs for factory style disc brake hubs may be a problem,   They are a special shouldered stud that presses into the rotor from the back side.  Unlike any other studs I have seen.  If you find some, be sure to post the source and part number.

I think your long term happiness would improve to simply get the correct calipers.

The knurl length is perfect, but the length under head looks long. I don't think the 3" length is the same, but don't know if will hurt anything. Thanks 50vert.

Edit:

The knurl length on the link to Jegs says it is .800, the ARP site says the knurl length is 1.00. The pic on the ARP sure doesn't look like oem.

Last edited by rpm (1/12/2018 11:50 PM)

From the photo you can see the difference between oem rotor on the right and aftermarket rotor on the left.  The oem rotor is two piece with the parts swaged together.  They cannot be separated that I know of.

​The top stud is for aftermarket rotors and the other two fit oem rotors.  They are not compatible.  It took me a long time to find those long studs.  I do not remember where I got them.  That photo was taken in 2006.




 

 

Last edited by lowercasesteve (1/13/2018 3:12 PM)

50vert wrote:

That does look a lot like the ARP stud. Thanks Steve
Alessandro, I agree with you and the other Steve on the front brakes ....rebuild your original calipers.
On the rear, get longer studs. What sort of brakes are on the rear?

I agree.  Rebuild them.

​My experience with them is that the main cause of a sticking piston is that the neoprene sealing rings glue themselves to the bore thru heat.  Getting them out is a bear.  My first pair took over 6 hours!  After that I rebuilt them at the very first sign of brake pull.  Then it is easy.  I finally got a second pair so I could swap them with little or no down time.  Just make sure you get a brake piston puller.  Eastwood may still sell them.
 

lowercasesteve wrote:

50vert wrote:

That does look a lot like the ARP stud. Thanks Steve
Alessandro, I agree with you and the other Steve on the front brakes ....rebuild your original calipers.
On the rear, get longer studs. What sort of brakes are on the rear?

I agree.  Rebuild them.

​My experience with them is that the main cause of a sticking piston is that the neoprene sealing rings glue themselves to the bore thru heat.  Getting them out is a bear.  My first pair took over 6 hours!  After that I rebuilt them at the very first sign of brake pull.  Then it is easy.  I finally got a second pair so I could swap them with little or no down time.  Just make sure you get a brake piston puller.  Eastwood may still sell them.
 

 Strange this thing . I never had problems to leave piston from calipers . I always use compress air and woodstick . Pop up in seconds!