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3/21/2018 11:26 AM  #1


Body gaps

I'm finally getting around to reassembling our Long Neglected 66 Coupe, after being apart for almost 20 years.  I tore it down to repair a rusted cowl and wound up doing a full Mustang Plus suspension upgrade and body paint.  Point to note is that the car was on jack stands for most of the 18 years, located at the rear axle and front crossmember.

All of the sheet metal is original with the exception of the drivers door which was replaced sometime in the long past.  The car HAS been apart at one time for some reason, probably prior body work which MAY have included an attempt at cowl repair, I found way too much seam sealer in weird areas.  Being that it is near 50 years old, I'm surprised there wasnt more rust or collision repair.

As the photos show, there is an gap at the drivers fender to door, all the other gaps line up ok.http://i68.tinypic.com/4ub5za.jpg

Drivers side fender gap to door.http://i63.tinypic.com/2j8f3n.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/2dqrlhv.jpg

The bottom of the door to fender gap is ok, as is the gap along the door bottom and rear.
http://i65.tinypic.com/rthpp4.jpg

The drivers door gap at the rear is ok too.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2lvwvd.jpg

As a comparison, the right fender to door gap is ok.
Now, I feel I know what the general consensus will be, that the body is high center sprung causing the body to bow.  It has never had any support in the "A" pillar area for more than a few minutes, at least not in the past 20 years.  It has not been wrecked more than superficial parking lot damage and I really dont remember this gap when I tore the body down, but again, it was 18 years ago.  The only thing that I think MAY have any relation is I installed frame stiffeners but that is towards the center and rear.

Perplexed

 

3/22/2018 12:10 PM  #2


Re: Body gaps

I disagree that the gap between the door and quarter panel is OK.  It appears tapered in your picture.  The two pieces should be exactly parallel.  It appears that if you raised the front edge of the door so the rear gap is parallel, the fender gap would then match up.  Notice the top edge of your passenger door fits right at the bottom of the drip rail.  The driver side appears much lower.  Remember, you will be adding a piece of chrome trim to the driprail, so be sure there is clearance for it so it doesn't scrape the door.

ALWAYS start door alignment by getting the door/quarter panel gap exactly parallel.  Also make sure the bottom of the door is parallel to the rocker panel.  The gap at the bottom will be wider than the rear gap, typically the lower gap is 3/16 to 1/4", but you will be able to tell by aligning the body lines of the door and quarter.  THEN, align the fender to the door.

If the quarters have been replaced, or the door skin has been replaced, you are at the mercy of the one who did the previous body work.  If original parts, it should all line up just right.
 


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

Board footera


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