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It has a Ford Racing billet steel flywheel. There are some areas where there is clutch disc material melted over a couple of 3-4" long spaces. The friction material is paper thin and stuck pretty good to the flywheel surface. It peels off pretty easily, though when a knife is applied. I find it very strange to think that layer was the flywheel's surface that mated with the clutch disc. It is a Centerforce dual friction clutch. The flywheel surface under that layer of material looks like it has never been touched by the disc, as in brand new. This had to be losing some clamping force, wouldn't you think?
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Well...........we all saw you do a "smokey" burn-out at the restaurant in Montrose!! Didn't look like it was slip'in then.
You would know (of all people) if you experienced any clutch slippage more recently.
You know better than to ride-the-clutch (like a little old man) when you're driv'in..............don't you?!
6sal6
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Considering the skinny tires you have to put on the back of that 66, you don’t need much clutch clamping force.
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Obviously that clutch was afraid of that 427!
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Maybe, maybe not. Its possible that's supposed to happen. Friction is a funny thing. Think about a dragstrip. Why is the traction good there and not on the street? Because the street doesn't have rubber cooked into the surface. The best traction is rubber on rubber. Possibly that's the case here as well.
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6sally6 wrote:
Well...........we all saw you do a "smokey" burn-out at the restaurant in Montrose!! Didn't look like it was slip'in then.
You would know (of all people) if you experienced any clutch slippage more recently.
You know better than to ride-the-clutch (like a little old man) when you're driv'in..............don't you?!
6sal6
Those tracks were still visible 5 months later. Boys boys boys
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I read an article by a brake mfg. guy a few months ago about "warped rotors". He claims that the real problem with pulsating brakes is not from warping the rotors but from the pads leaving an uneven coating of friction material when hot brakes are stopped and the clamping pressure is not released...as in coming down a steep hill and then stopping at the bottom and holding one's foot on the brake. I would suspect that the same theory could be applied to clutches after heating things up real good doing multiple burn-outs.
BB
Last edited by Bullet Bob (3/22/2018 6:42 AM)
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red351 wrote:
MS I was shoving snow I remembered I needed to grind some off the crank bolt heads after FR steel flywheel got resurfaced . The machine shop was only clean it up, but not sure how much they really took. Laid the CF dual disc on the flywheel and there wasn't room for wear before the center hub made contacted on the bolts
Interesting. I will check that, but I am using the thin head ARP flywheel bolts. I did not see any rub issues on bolts, but thanks for the heads-up on that.
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Bullet Bob wrote:
I read an article by a brake mfg. guy a few months ago about "warped rotors". He claims that the real problem with pulsating brakes is not from warping the rotors but from the pads leaving an uneven coating of friction material when hot brakes are stopped and the clamping pressure is not released...as in coming down a steep hill and then stopping at the bottom and holding one's foot on the brake. I would suspect that the same theory could be applied to clutches after heating things up real good doing multiple burn-outs.
BB
Yeah, I read that article too, but I called BS about immediately. If rotors don't warp then why does a brake lathe take material only off a high spot when you turn them? If you've ever turned a set of warped rotors you start skimming the rotor and the cutter only removed material from on particular area at first. On successive passes it takes material off a larger and larger area as you gradually true the surface to be parallel to the hub mounting flange or perpendicular to the spindle bore. Rotors absolutely warp, and its by no means as uncommon as that guy claims.
Now, that's not to say that there's no merit to what he's saying, because I've fixed brake squeal on numerous vehicles by taking a gasket removing pad on an air angle grinder to the rotor surfaces and removing whatever glaze or cooked on crap was on the surfaces, followed by running the pads across some 100 grit sandpaper on a flat metal plate to deglaze them. I think this occurs when the pads are overheated and the resin that binds the pad material together cooks out a little bit. It doesn't seem to cause pad failure, just an annoying noise.
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Back in the day when I ran Ferodo brake pads we used to have to sand the rotors between sessions to get the build up off or the brakes didn't work quite right. As far as clutches, since I started just calling the tech guys at South Bend Clutch I have had zero clutch problems.
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