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got a line on a t-5 locally bell housing and a rebuild kit $400. let you know
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well the t-5 was a wash soo ill keep on looking
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Let me know what you're looking for. I have one from a V8 Foxbody. It would have to be shipped, but a T5 only weighs like 68 lbs I think, and its compact. I can figure out shipping with a ZIP. PM me if interested.
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bearcat I am consdering this, So please post everything you are researching and settling with, parts, nuances.. make it full of info for me to follow behind you
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I am collecting parts to change my 66 with a C-4 to a T-5 also. So far, I have the T-5, bell housing, shifter and pedals. I will be following this thread as I gather the parts needed.
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Just starting to collect parts , But i will keep you all posted
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Its really a well documented and straightforward swap. You will need:
T5 for a V8 application, preferably a Fox Mustang application '85-'93. The Z-spec T5 is also an option as it is a direct fit for those cars. Correct speedo gear for your rear gear ratio and tire size.
T5 bellhousing, clutch fork, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and associated hardware.
Flywheel for a 28.2 oz balance with 157 teeth.
Custom T5 crossmember for your year Mustang & T5 trans mount.
Aftermarket slip yoke for T5 to allow use of stock driveshaft (works with '67, not sure about other years).
Aftermarket plug and play wiring, or you can fabricate your own.
Mustang Steve cable clutch kit. Clutch pedal (this you will have to research for your particular year, but its well documented how to swap from a single auto pedal to a dual pedal setup in any year on this forum and others).
Shift lever, knob, and boot.
Its mostly a bolt in. Obviously there will be snags and pitfalls that apparently only happen to you, because that's how these things go. No write up ever seems to be complete, as people forget things, don't hit the same snag you do, etc.
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What TKO said x2. One other bit of advice. I bought a fastener kit from Rosehill Performance that contained every nut,bolt,screw and washer I needed to complete the job. I'm sure it saved me countless hours and aggravation. As complex as it seams it is really a simple mod, time consuming but simple. There are options for clutch/ flywheel , clutch actuation, etc. so do your home work and ask questions.
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Most people use a cable clutch, but you can actually still use a factory z-bar or a hydraulic clutch if you choose to... just to give you a few more options.
I used the factory z-bar because I already had all of the pieces. I re-did my clutch rods with heim joints and it works smoothly.
Last edited by Michael H. (4/26/2018 7:19 AM)
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That is true, and if you start with a manual trans reusing the stock linkage may actually be easier. If you're converting from an automatic though IMO its easier to just use the cable rather than rounding up the 4 speed clutch linkage parts.
Hydraulic is an option too, but I've never been a fan of hydraulic clutch actuation. To me it gives a numb pedal where its hard to know exactly where the clutch is slipping and gripping. Some form of mechanical linkage allows you to feel exactly where it is in the engagement point.
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |