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Hello everyone!
I am looking for a 351W block for my stoker 408 project, but my knowledge of engine is not great. Can you all give me your ideas on the below listing of a block that I found?
69 model 30 over 351w 30 over with forged TRW pistons.Stock Rods, Chance 10 thousandths new everything. Cam 500 lift 270 270 110 lobe separation. Still has the break in oil in it. Well under 50miles on it. will take $800
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If you are just looking for a block I would try to find a later model 95+ Ford Truck/Van 351w with an F4TE or later stamping. Those are roller cam ready.
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I have a couple of DSS Racing level 20 blocks that are excellent. They come virtually ready to assemble and are done very well with screw in plugs and all. I do throw them in the wash tank and go over them with soap and water as well, but that is about it. They have been great and they are CNC clearenced for stroker apps. I think the 351 unit is about $1100 and well worth it. They are all crack/sonic checked as well.
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For $1100 you can't beat that. You'll have almost $1,000 in machining alone on a used block to get it into shape for a stroker. I would also shy away from a block that's already been bored 0.030" over because that doesn't leave you much if any room for a future rebuild, and depending on core shift it could already be too thin.
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If you're just looking for a block, I would agree with Raymond B. The F4TE block is a better choice. They are still available in junk yards. Just take a couple of helpers with you. Getting one out of a pickup or van can be daunting.
Otherwise, that '69 short block looks tempting if you plan to keep power under 400hp and don't plan to race. It is similar to mine and I have over 100k miles on it. Another consideration is how much do you trust the current owner? There are numerous horror stories about where what you think you have is not what you get.
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I agree with LCSteve...how well do you trust the owner?!(you lost me on the "chance 10 thousandths"???!!)
Be sure and look at the machinists bill and receipts for the other stuff. If its good offer 650....butt $800 is still a good price.
6sally6
PS...I gots-to-know-man.......what's the duration on the came @050? I can't help it!
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94 or later roller block is better, I totally agree. Also, the 69 block is 0.023" shorter on the deck height. Check your stroker kit to see what deck height is required. I bet it takes the taller deck.
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I found a 351W roller block from a 96 3/4 ton pickup truck. It is not running, long block on an engine stand, but will need to be torn down and sent to machine shop as there is some pitting/rust in the piston chambers. What is a block worth in this shape?
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SeanD wrote:
I found a 351W roller block from a 96 3/4 ton pickup truck. It is not running, long block on an engine stand, but will need to be torn down and sent to machine shop as there is some pitting/rust in the piston chambers. What is a block worth in this shape?
I'd say $75-$150 as all it is is a core.
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I would really look over those bores because if that pitting is anything much more than surface rust I'd move on. Most of these blocks tolerate no more than a 0.020" overbore, maybe 0.030" because of how thin the cylinder walls are. I've seen blocks that didn't look terribly pitted from a first glance need a 0.060" overbore to clean them up adequately.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
I would really look over those bores because if that pitting is anything much more than surface rust I'd move on. Most of these blocks tolerate no more than a 0.020" overbore, maybe 0.030" because of how thin the cylinder walls are. I've seen blocks that didn't look terribly pitted from a first glance need a 0.060" overbore to clean them up adequately.
Even if I plan to have it bored so that it is a stroker 408?
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TKOPerformance wrote:
I would really look over those bores because if that pitting is anything much more than surface rust I'd move on. Most of these blocks tolerate no more than a 0.020" overbore, maybe 0.030" because of how thin the cylinder walls are. I've seen blocks that didn't look terribly pitted from a first glance need a 0.060" overbore to clean them up adequately.
No 351 expert but the cylinder walls look much thicker than the 302 block. 1969 block seems to be the one that people are looking for rebuilding. They claim its the strongest block of the 351 blocks offered.
Last edited by Steve69 (4/13/2017 6:07 AM)
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SeanD wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
I would really look over those bores because if that pitting is anything much more than surface rust I'd move on. Most of these blocks tolerate no more than a 0.020" overbore, maybe 0.030" because of how thin the cylinder walls are. I've seen blocks that didn't look terribly pitted from a first glance need a 0.060" overbore to clean them up adequately.
Even if I plan to have it bored so that it is a stroker 408?
Virtually all early 351w blocks will handle a.030 overbore. some can handle .060, but you should sonic check first before any boring. I agree with TKO that any pitting other than surface rust cannot be bored out. Three one hundredth of an inch is very little.
And, you need a 4" stroker crank to get to 408 cubic inches. That is a whole different story.
Last edited by lowercasesteve (4/13/2017 2:18 PM)
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To achieve a 408 you will need an aftermarket crank, rods, and pistons.
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There's a marked difference in cylinder wall thickness between early and late blocks. The old '60s era castings were a lot thicker and you could typically overbore then up to 0.060", but due to possible core shift you should always sonic check a block before going that far over.
The block being discussed was a late model truck block for easy conversion to a roller cam. Those blocks, like the 5.0 blocks, were cast using much better technology that allowed for them to be thinner and lighter, but the trade off is that the cylinder walls are thinner because core shift was better controlled. This means that most of these blocks are good for a 0.020" overbore, possibly a 0.030" one, and a few could go to 0.040", but I'd sonic check anything over 0.020" to be safe.
If building a stroker engine, or any engine for that matter, its best to overbore as little as possible. Boring an engine is a bad way to increase displacement. Consider that a 302 with a 4" bore and a 3" stroke gains all of 4 cubic inches from a 0.030" overbore. There's not going to be a noticeable increase in power from 4 cubes. Where you build cubes is by increasing stroke, because you can make bigger changes. Increase the stroke by 0.250" and you add 27 cubes to that 302, and that is a difference maker, especially in low end torque. The same ideas apply to a 351, but a 351 has a taller deck height so there is more room to add stroke.
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Keep in mind that the later 351's had much better fuel management than the early carbureted engines and should exhibit a lot less cylinder and bearing wear. Efi equipped 5.0,s with very high mileage (200k) showed very little wear when opened up, whereas carbed engines with half the miles would require .030 to clean up. Same findings for the 351 should be expected.
Best,
Al
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Yep, good point Al.
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