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4/25/2017 9:47 PM  #1


Driveshaft

I just finished installing a 94' 5.0 in the 65 coupe.  Trying to work out all the bugs.  I have a C4 that was originally in the car but, the driveshaft is pretty pitted and rusted.  So, I had an extra good driveshaft that was in a different 66 with a T5.  Both shafts slide into the C4 with no problem but, the good shaft is almost 3" shorter.  The car runs and drives ok, but it doesn't have any take off power.  Would the near 3 inch difference affect the cars take off?
The other thing I noticed is, when I quickly press the gas as I'm moving down the road, I can feel a very faint thump.  I checked the trans mount and crossmember because it felt like that's where the thumping was coming from, but everything was tight.  So, it made me wonder about the driveshaft?
When I took the rusted shaft out I noticed it did have the 8" yoke and the T5 shaft was maybe 5".

 

4/26/2017 7:05 AM  #2


Re: Driveshaft

First off, you need to get a shaft that's right in the car.  I would just have one built locally.  Probably looking at less than $250.  I use a shop down by here that does heavy truck parts and they have a driveshaft shop and a guy that is amazing with them.  Here's a link to how to measure for shaft length:

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/how_to_measure.html

Take that and your old shaft to the shop and they can reuse your yokes, etc. if they are in serviceable shape.

On that clunk I will bet you have a driveshaft angle issue.  Especially if you've used an aftermarket poly trans mount.  Often they are too tall and cause issues.  Also, if the car has been lowered at all it will cause issues.  We chased a similar issue on my buddy's '95 Cobra for about a year before we finally figure out that the trans mount was now too tall and once we modified the crossmember to lower the tailshaft it went away. 

 

4/26/2017 7:59 AM  #3


Re: Driveshaft

I just thought it may be the yoke because that is the only difference in the 2 shafts.  I did change the eng, but 5.0 and 289 shouldn't have anything to do with the shaft.  The car suspension is exactly how is was, no modifications were made.
I 'll get a new shaft made to replace the old rusty pitted one.
Thanks

     Thread Starter
 

4/26/2017 8:35 AM  #4


Re: Driveshaft

I see that you are from Richmond. Am I correct in assuming that's Richmond Va? If so and you can't find a local and reliable shop to biuld a drive shaft I can recommend Gregory's in Virginia Beach. Might be worth a hour and a half drive and a visit to the Beach. They modified and balanced mine for my 66. They do great work and use quality parts.


"anyone that stops learning is old, whether at twenty or eighty"Henry Ford
 

4/26/2017 9:29 AM  #5


Re: Driveshaft

Are you saying that the driveshafts are different lengths or just the slip yokes?
If the shafts are the same lengths and the difference is only in the slip yoke length you should be ok.

However, I recently learned that you don't want to run the long yoke in a T5 or the rear bushing won't oil properly (Per Glen B. who is a reputable T5 rebuilder).

 

4/26/2017 4:18 PM  #6


Re: Driveshaft

I hear mid 90's 2 door Explorers with the 4.0 and 2wd have a nice aluminum driveshaft with the right length. As soon as I find one, it's going it.

Last edited by Huskinhano (4/26/2017 4:18 PM)


I'm not a complete idiot.....pieces are missing. Tom
 

4/26/2017 4:30 PM  #7


Re: Driveshaft

I wouldn't.  Aluminum shafts in my experience are nothing but trouble.  I've replaced factory aluminum shafts in two different vehicles and eliminated a ton of annoying vibrations and harmonics.  With driveshafts the diameter of the tube and the inherent frequency of the material come into play to determine whether or not it will vibrate in the frequency range at which the vehicle operates.  Aluminum vibrates at a much lower frequency that steel, which is one of the reasons why aluminum shafts are always so much bigger.  Its an effort to move the frequency range higher and eliminate resonance.  Aluminum shafts are currently being used to help lighten vehicles as they get more and more portly due to more and more electronics and more and more safety gear.  There is in theory a slight performance advantage to aluminum due to it lighter weight, but I'll trade that half a tenth in the 1/4 for a smoother highway ride every time. 

 

4/26/2017 7:08 PM  #8


Re: Driveshaft

Billy, thanks but, I'm in Richmond, TX. I just updated my profile.

Michael, the drive shafts are about 2 1/2 inches different lengths.  But ironically you mention the T5 as the one with the long yoke, but it's backwards in my case. The T5 yoke is the shorter one and the original C4 rusted one is the long 8 inch.  I'm gonna put the old rusted one back on and see if it makes any difference?  If it does then, I will have a new one made.

     Thread Starter
 

4/27/2017 7:28 AM  #9


Re: Driveshaft

The T5 yoke should be the shorter yoke... using the longer yoke in a T5 will create oiling issues.

 

4/27/2017 8:55 AM  #10


Re: Driveshaft

Ozblitz wrote:

Billy, thanks but, I'm in Richmond, TX. I just updated my profile.

Michael, the drive shafts are about 2 1/2 inches different lengths.  But ironically you mention the T5 as the one with the long yoke, but it's backwards in my case. The T5 yoke is the shorter one and the original C4 rusted one is the long 8 inch.  I'm gonna put the old rusted one back on and see if it makes any difference?  If it does then, I will have a new one made.

 
Still I wouldn't rule out a visit to The Beach. Just sayin


"anyone that stops learning is old, whether at twenty or eighty"Henry Ford
 

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