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9/09/2017 9:34 AM  #1


Yet another thread about manual disc/disc master cylinder/lines - HELP

I've read thru many posts here and on the VMF, so many that I am nearly confusing myself by the abundance on info but most don't come close to answering my questions.  I'm bringing a 69 grande back on the road that has been parked since 1974.  It was a manual drum/drum car that needs a new MC anyway (frozen).

I've replaced the front drums with 71-73 mustang disc brake units, tie rods, etc.  I am replacing the rear drums with 94 crown vic disc setup using the spacers from Fast Merc.

Where I am having trouble is which master cylinder to use, and if lines must be made. I'm sticking with non assist, no booster.  I've read that a drum/drum MC can be used.  I've also read about an SVO, and a 2000 v6 MC too.  I picked up a 2000 v6 MC yesterday from my local pick a part just to see how it would look and I'm not too confident in my flaring abilities.  Are there short lines with the 10mm on one end and standard on the other?  Is the 69 non power drum/drum MC one that would work?  I'm almost to the point of not installing the rear discs and just swapping over to the factory stuff to make the disc/drum work....too much information overload without a solid answer at the end of a 4 page thread.

Thanks

 

9/09/2017 7:26 PM  #2


Re: Yet another thread about manual disc/disc master cylinder/lines - HELP

I think your easiest solution would be to retain the drum rear brakes. You will not notice any difference in braking on a non-race car. Most install rear discs for "the look".

Then use a 15/16" 74 Maverick disc/drum non power master cylinder, available new from MustangSteve.

You also need a proportionng valve. We offer an adjustable block that replaces your differenial pressure valve, or you can simply use an adjustable valve in the rear line, retaining your factory DP valve. Or find an original non-adjustable combination valve from a Mustang or Maverick 70-73 model.

If you use the rear discs, the 2000 v6 mc works well. Use an adjustable prop valve as described above.

Don't let tube flaring scare you off. You can buy tubing with 10mm bubble thread fittings. Cut it in half and you have both mc lines. Get an SAE inverted flare kit and go to FedHill.com to read up on flares.  My tip for flaring is to tighten the devil out of the first stage of the flare, but do not tighten the second stage more than 1/2 turn once the die contacts the tube. If you overtighten the second stage, it will leak every time. Leave it semi-flared using the 1/2 turn suggestion and it will still be soft enough to make a really good seal when you tighten the flare nut.  Be sure to use a quality (NOT harbor freight) flare nut wrench to tighten fittings.
Use a coat hanger wire to make a pattern tube. New tubing bends really easily, unlike the old stuff on the car. Buy an inexpensive tube bender that will make fairly tight radius bends. 
If you have questions, be sure to ask.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

9/09/2017 8:29 PM  #3


Re: Yet another thread about manual disc/disc master cylinder/lines - HELP

Thanks Steve,  What are the differences between the 69 mc (drum/drum) and the 74 Maverick?  The 69 is a 1" bore? I was going with the drums for ease of use, cheaper in the long run, and the car has a 650hp stroker in it.  More braking to stop at the end of the track.

Thanks for the info on flaring, I will check that site out.  Anything that has to do with flaring and stopping a 3200 pound car makes me nervous.  The car shouldnt have a proportioning valve anywhere on it now since its a factory drum/drum car, correct?  Since I have everything, including the rear discs, spacers, and 2000 MC  perhaps I will go thru with that route...or save it for my wifes 69 mach 1.

Thanks for the advise, glad to be back on the site...its been a long time.

     Thread Starter
 

9/09/2017 9:06 PM  #4


Re: Yet another thread about manual disc/disc master cylinder/lines - HELP

I'm certainly NOT the brake guru on here butt..............welcome to the site!
To understand why the 15/16" Maverick MC will work better you have to think hydraulics.    The smaller area of the Maverick MC will apply more pressure to the brakes than the 1" one....using the same pressure from your foot on the brake pedal. Think of it as the wider the plunger in the MC the more area for the fluid to disperse. You want the fluid to be compacted when on the plunger to give you more force when mashing the pedal. Think about it.
6sally6 


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

9/09/2017 9:15 PM  #5


Re: Yet another thread about manual disc/disc master cylinder/lines - HELP

It's all about PSI...pound per square inch.  Assuming the same leg pressure is applied, a 15/16" MC, being smaller, it has fewer square inches of area so will create more PSI than the 1" MC.  Butt (TS&T) it will have to travel further to move the same volume of fluid.

BB


"you get what you pay for, good work isn't cheap, and there are NO free lunches...PERIOD!"
 

Board footera


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