BillyC wrote:

   .......but I can't help but think there is something else I should do before I start that process.

The Arning Drop (aka Shelby Drop)?
 

So...the 1/8 turn CW remained necessary after you centered the wheels to the steering box.  You say the left is wearing on the outside (positive camber) and right is wearing on the inside (negative camber).  You said Zero toe but how did you check that?  It's easy to set but, in my experience, a bit of a challenge to measure.  Butt, it can be done.

Now that you have the wheels mostly straight with the box I'd say get your caster/camber gage out, make a set of plates (I use 12"X12" 14ga steel plates with grease between 'em, two on each side but I've been told a plain old plastic bag works well too), get the car parked on a reasonably level surface and dive in.

Don't know what gage you have but I have a Longacre Racing Products magnetic and it is easy to use if the hubs protrude through the wheels.   Maw's Cragars  make it more of a challenge. 

If you have the instructions for the gage just do as it says.  If not, I would recommend setting the camber first...then caster.  You'll need to make a cardboard template that will tell you when you've turned the wheels 20 degrees or so in each direction to do caster.  Caster and camber on these cars are set with shims so you may need to have a few on hand.  With the car on the ground loosening the UCA nuts will allow the UCA to move out , away from the tower, thus un-clamping the shims.  Camber  is set with equal shims so add or remove an equal thickness of shims from the UCA studs until it gives the desired read when tightened down.

Once the camber is as close you can move a rear shim to the front to get the desired caster...then re-check and if necessary dial in the camber. 

This is a slow tedious process which is why very few shops will do it right.

Once you are happy with the caster and camber you can tweak the toe-in.  I use two pieces of 1/2" square tubing held to the outside of the tires with bungees.  I rest them on a chunk of 4x4 so they are both the same height (hopefully above the tire bulge but low enough that they can be tape-measured in front and behind.  Use the tie rod sleeves to adjust for 1/16 to 1/8" toe IN.  This probably ain't the most accurate but our heap when the first 15K miles with no adverse reactions.

Now you can see if the steering wheel is square with the world and adjust that accordingly by moving the wheel on the shaft a spline or two or adjusting the tie rod sleeves.

Recommended settings:

DAZE recommends 0 to .5 degrees NEGATIVE camber (top of the wheel tilted in).  As much POSITIVE caster as you can get (top of the spindle tilted back).  With a stock setup I was able to get right at 2.25 degrees.  Every car is different  so do what you can. 
Now that I did the Arning drop and moved the UCAs back about one turn on the shaft, a local pro (old mustang guy with an alignment shop...very rare) was able to get 5 degrees and my Borgesen box is very happy.

If you think you could use it, I will loan my alignment tool for the price of shipping both ways.  It's good as new and has easy to follow instructions.  You can PM me.

Good luck Billy.  Like most stuff on these old cars, it ain't rocket science...or even brain surgery.  But make sure you leave enough threads for a full nut on the front stud.

BB


 

Last edited by Bullet Bob (9/18/2017 5:59 PM)

Great..it's a good tool, Billy.

BB

I've done a couple alignments on my 66. Understanding a few basics makes the job a whole lot easier. The Ford shop manual is a really big help. It explains the relationship between a shim's thickness and it's effect on either caster or camber. It also gives very clear information on how to adjust the tie rods for caster and how to center the steering wheel. The quick. To adjust toe, either in or out, you're going to turn one side towards the fire wall and the other towards the radiator. To center the wheel and not change to, you turn both sleeves either to the firewall or towards the radiator. I forget exactly which way for what but you'll find out quick enough. I just use folded up 3 mil black contractor garbage bags under the tires as my turn table. They work really well. They're those really thick plastic bags. Also checked your lower arm control bushings. They take a beating not only going up and down but also following the arc of the strut. I second the specs of .5° negative camber and as much caster as you can get. On 67 & later cars where caster is adjusted by the strut, there is absolutely no reason why you couldn't use shims for more caster.

The one thing that bothers me that you need to fix. The steering shaft is going to have a witness Mark. That and only that is where the center of the steering wheel lines up with the wheels straight. DO NOT relock the steering wheel to center it. This effects how much you can turn the wheels in either direction and more importantly it affects Ackerman or the rate of toe out needed and how much each wheel is given during a turn. The pirate arm swings in a arc and that arc effects the rate each wheel turns measured in degrees. The inner and outer wheel will be different amount of degrees. This is important!

Here's a quick write up I did of one of my alignments.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/885066-setting-caster-camber.html

Last edited by Huskinhano (9/19/2017 12:53 PM)