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I am losing my fuel pressure while driving, after aboute ten minutes or so the car is starting to go bad, but i can limp it home if i am really really careful on the threottle, i have replaced the electric fuel pump twice....
I have tried alot of things:
changed fuel sending unit with filter
driven without gascap
changed fuel pump
changed pertronix coil plugwires plugs
even changed starter solenoid
transmission is overhouled and is now good
i have installed fuel preassure gauge...
here are the symptoms:
car runs fine in park
whn i take it on the road it runs fine in aboute ten minutes,
then it starting to get to little fuel. i can drive it if i am
really careful on the throttle. The fuel pump is not sounding at all
(this were the case with both pumps while problem occurs) when i check the
fuel preassure gauge it reads 0psi.... let the car stand for a while, start up the car again, and i have fuel preassure back....
noe fuel vapor lock the fuel is cold, and so is the regulator.
I had similar problems before the electric fuel pump were installed (had similar symptoms with mecanical)
I have changed almost everything, BUT the carburator, are there something in the carburator that
could have given these symptoms?
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I recently had that problem. It was the fuel filter - clogged. Worked fine for a while and gradually the engine would begin cutting out. I had just replaced the fuel tank and there must have been some grit left in it. I Cleaned it out and no problems.
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I agree you probably have a restriction of vapor lock. Fuel filter or fuel line improperly routed alongside hot engine or exhaust. Or an old hose breaking down internally. Avoid fuel filters on top of engine.
I find mechanical engine driven fuel pumps are the most reliable fuel system you can have.
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It really sounds like a fuel filter. The junk in them settles to the bottom, then gradually starts to move as you drive and stop up the flow. You are still getting a trickle, just not enough to support any RPM.
Did the car sit for a long time with gas in it? I'm thinking you have varnish/tar in the tank that's clogging the new filters almost instantly.
What kind of fuel pump are you using? There are a lot of electric pumps out there. Some god, others junk. Typically you get what you pay for with them. For carbureted applications I too prefer a mechanical pump. Every new car runs an electric pump, but that's also because every new car is EFI. In high pressure applications electric is the only viable option and they work well. But carbed engines all ran mechanical pumps stock. Typically electric pumps flow WAY too much fuel and you have to dumb them down with a regulator to avoid blowing the needle off the seat and flooding the engine. That's working at cross purposes to me. I'd rather have a pump that just supplied what the engine needed.
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reason for converting to electric fuel pump is that i plan on running efi, but i want these gremlins out of the way first
could be a filter.....
I had the same problem with a mecanical pump before i did the swap, suspecting it would fix the problem.... it did not
new tank new fuel pickup with filter
inline oem-ish pump for volvo 740..... and bosch 044
I had this problem before installing all these things, thats why I suddenly started thinking that there maby could be something with the carb, i am not that good with carbs, but maby?
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The Bosch pumps are pretty reliable. I don't think the pump's your issue. Have you flushed the lines?
Perhaps, and I stress perhaps, you've got some junk in the float bowl that's partially blocking the needle and seat once the fuel in the bowl swirls around a bit.
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i have drained the tank and replaced some hoses today with hard lines, tomorrow i will put it all together again but will blow the lines with air before putting it together...... I will take away the pre pump filter aswell, it is a cheap shitty filter, if it does the trick i will buy a betterflowing one.... I am not that scared anyway, i have the filter on the pickup tube.... if its still not doing its job, i really think it is after the fuel system, or the regulator itself
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You can verify both fuel pressure and volume to help rule things out. A pressure gauge on the line can tell you pressure, and with an electric pump you can cycle it and see how much fuel it puts out in an hour by pumping into a graduated container for one timed minute. Multiply that amount by 60 and you will know gallons per hour. You might have to do some converting like ounces to gallons, etc., but those conversion factors are easily found online.
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I know you drove it without the gas cap butt..........next time it quits, run and check to see if you have a vacuum in the tank!?! Sounds like the pump is pumping until it dead heads because of a vacuum in the tank/line. Gotta be that or the filter!! IF it were the carb it wouldn't run good to begin with and THEN start acting up.
6sally6
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esmi83 wrote:
I am losing my fuel pressure while driving, after aboute ten minutes or so the car is starting to go bad, but i can limp it home if i am really really careful on the threottle, i have replaced the electric fuel pump twice....
I have tried alot of things:
changed fuel sending unit with filter
driven without gascap
changed fuel pump
changed pertronix coil plugwires plugs
even changed starter solenoid
transmission is overhouled and is now good
i have installed fuel preassure gauge...
here are the symptoms:
car runs fine in park
whn i take it on the road it runs fine in aboute ten minutes,
then it starting to get to little fuel. i can drive it if i am
really careful on the throttle. The fuel pump is not sounding at all
(this were the case with both pumps while problem occurs) when i check the
fuel preassure gauge it reads 0psi.... let the car stand for a while, start up the car again, and i have fuel preassure back....
noe fuel vapor lock the fuel is cold, and so is the regulator.
I had similar problems before the electric fuel pump were installed (had similar symptoms with mecanical)
I have changed almost everything, BUT the carburator, are there something in the carburator that
could have given these symptoms?
junk in Fuel tank, junk in fuel lines, plugged fuel filter. Your electrical fuel pump stopping running is a separate problem, does it use a relay? If it does try replacing a relay that is rated for a suitable amount of continuous duty amperage. The fact you have the same problem that you state results in 0 psi fuel pressure makes me think there is something clogging the feed to the pump.
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small update;
flushed tank, removed pre pump filter (it was a bad cheap one) disconnected all lines and blowed them clean with compressed air. put everything back together and went for a test drive....
same thing is happening. seems to be fuel starvation, because everything i have to do to get it started again is to pour some gas in the carb, then she starts right up again, keeps on going for aboute five min, and then she starves again.... fuel preassure back to normal everytime i restart her. since she stalled compleatly i did not get the chance to check fuel preassure,,, I have a feeling that this is more likely to happen at low throttle, but it is really just a guess by now.
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So what shuts fuel flow off in a carb? Needle and seat and float.
Or, is the pump cutting out due to an electrical issue (overload)? But, you say you had the same issue before installing the electric pump, so I have to suspect the carb at this point.
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yes i suspect that aswell...... but to be honest my head has been spinnin around electrical issue aswell..... there is a small chance that the earlier foult were waporlock, because i were missing the spacer behind the mec-pump, and the car ran alot longer then....... i will try to bypass relay and see what happens, if that does not work i will take a look at the carb i think....
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Just to know ... The gas cap is supposed to be also a breather for gas vapor ?
My old bike one day wont run for this air inlet clogged ...
Thank
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Unless I missed it, I don't see anything about testing/changing the neoprene lines. They will deteriorate and develop a "flap" that will close off the flow then open back up after a few minutes when downstream pressure or vacuum (depending on location of the flap) drops off.
And if you aren't running Alky-Safe tubing it don't take very long for them to start going bad.
BB
Last edited by Bullet Bob (9/20/2017 7:10 PM)
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yes the gascap is the breather, no vacum when it stops, and drivin without gascap does not change anything
all lines both rubber and hardlines are new this year
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starting to get even more frustrated
wired the fuel pump directly to the battery today, no relays no nothing..... she is still sick the por thing, if anything she ran for a shorter time....
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Did you remove the tank to flush it? Look inside with a torch?
A mate had a similar problem on a truck .... turned out a t-shirt had been stuffed in the tank.
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Ah....what he means is a "flashlight". LOL
BB
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wow tshirt in the fuel tank nice! haha I installed the tank myself this season and cleaned it inside nd out before putting it in place, but thanks for the tip ;)
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I think you said you have a regulator...what kind exactly? And where is the FP Gauge connected...ahead of or after the regulator? And...what pump are you using? You stated that the electric pump is preparatory to going with EFI, so...what pump? I don't think that a high pressure EFI pump would be happy in this single line, low pressure, low flow situation.
BB
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Bullet Bob wrote:
Ah....what he means is a "flashlight". LOL
BB
Yeah .... thats what I meant, prolly shouldn't be lookin in a tank with a gas torch. Thanks for the translation Bob.
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Bullet Bob wrote:
I think you said you have a regulator...what kind exactly? And where is the FP Gauge connected...ahead of or after the regulator? And...what pump are you using? You stated that the electric pump is preparatory to going with EFI, so...what pump? I don't think that a high pressure EFI pump would be happy in this single line, low pressure, low flow situation.
BB
it is a return system, regulated with
there is a efi-pump currently there is a bosch fuel pump for an old 911 or volvo earlier there were a bosch 044, both are good, and both are ment for efi, thats why I have the return line...
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Go back to the basics..............install mech fuel pump and suck fuel from a gallon gas can.
IF it does the same thing.....gotta be the carb
If that fixes it then you know its between the engine and the electric pump.
Prolly a lot of work butt....may be the quickest way to track down the prob.
6sal6
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From the catalog -
The Mr. Gasket Fuel Pressure Regulator #2015 is a return-style fuel pressure regulator. The operating fuel pressure range is 4.5 – 9 PSI. The inlet/outlet size is 3/8" NPT. The fuel return line size should be 3/8" I.D. or larger or the regulator will not regulate properly. For use with carbureted fuel pumps only. For use with gasoline fuel systems. Not compatible with alcohol, methanol or E-85 fuels. Not for fuel injection systems.
If the pressure regulator is seeing too much pressure it might give up and go straight to bypass. Of course, Holley could be wrong about their own product. I agree with Mike. Ditch the pump and go mechanical to eliminate all of the other possibilities. I would install a pressure gauge in the system temporarily to check the actual pressure at the carb no matter which way you go. A proper low pressure electric fuel pump may cure your ills if you are uncomfortable with a nice and simple mechanical pump.
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