Well welcome aboard! Great project you set out to do. You'll get plenty of help.  Sorry I can't help but please feel free to post a pic or two of what has been done so far. There will be those with experience with this along shortly.

Thanks, that crestronwizard build was pretty sweet, way more intense than I plan. Here's what my project looks like as of now, lots of room in there.....

These guys are big money, but iy you want it turn key it's a good option.

http://www.clevelandpap.com/shop/engine-packages/14-mustang-gt-5-0l-26k-coyote-engine-6-speed-manual-trans-turn-key-pallet/

Hello Rez and everyone else on this thread.. I'm a newbie here also and just purchased a 66 coupe in January as a father and son project.It's going to be a pro touring car with a full upgraded suspension and Coyote engine.
I am looking for some insight also in order to minimize  time consuming  and costly mistakes.
My first question is, should I keep the original pedal box(automatic) which will be converted to standard shift or is there a better alternative ...cable or hydraulic clutch?

Last edited by 1966coyote (5/12/2017 6:17 AM)

1966coyote wrote:

Hello Rez and everyone else on this thread.. I'm a newbie here also and just purchased a 66 coupe in January as a father and son project.It's going to be a pro touring car with a full upgraded suspension and Coyote engine.
I am looking for some insight also in order to minimize  time consuming  and costly mistakes.
My first question is, should I keep the original pedal box(automatic) which will be converted to standard shift or is there a better alternative ...cable or hydraulic clutch?

The pedal support is the same for automatics and manuals.  You just need the manual pedals (brake and clutch), which should be pretty easy to come by (might be available aftermarket, not sure for '66 they are for '67).

The stand alone harness is the ONLY way to go, unless you have a degree in electrical engineering and a ton of spare time to reverse engineer it.  Even then there's bound to be a lot of programming stuff too, so better have a degree in computer programming too.  No, the stand alone harness greatly simplifies this type of swap.

On the suspension you could save a lot of money by just keeping the stock stuff with upgrades.  You can easily spend $10,000 to "upgrade" everything, and it may look trick with heim joints and tubular A-arms, etc., but it won't go around a corner any better than a stock type suspension that's been properly modified and set up.  Shelby drop, boxing the arms, good springs, shocks, bushings, and sway bars make a night and day difference.  Oh, and stiffen up the chassis with some subframe connectors.  These cars have a lot of flex in them.  A stiffer chassis lets you run a lighter spring and still get better more predictable handling.  If you're going to spend money I'd spend it on the rear end first and ditch the leaf springs, ideally in favor of a torque arm system.  Not sure if anyone sells a bolt in TA system, but one can be fabricated.  Hakan, a member on here from Sweden, has some links to his car that he built a TA system for.  Do a search and you'll find it.  Great fab work.  Really beautiful stuff. 
 

rez wrote:

 
I suggest checking the steering shaft length for any potential interferences with the Coyote engine.
I have the same front end (although from Rod & Custom) and while I'm running a 351W, my steering column length is longer (sticks out from the firewall by about 6", 9.5" from firewall to the center of the u-joint).  My D-Shaft is at a much sharper angle then yours and I do not have interference issues.  I'm not saying this is an issue, but is worth checking prior to landing the engine.

I'm still undecided what I'm going to do. TCI is 15 min away from me so I went up to their shop to check everything out. I started with the front end and was happy with construction, so I went with their torque arm set up also. I just picked up the torque arm set up last week and I can't answer for how any of it handles but it looks beefy and well constructed. From what I've found online, looks like there are some issues going with their front end, like moving firewall back, enlarging trans tunnel, and moving the MC, and it appears to be questionable if the hood will close. I was initially going to put in an old 302 I had laying around, and then I decided coyote, but now I'm leaning back towards the 302. The good news is that I don't have to make a decision right now, as I have plenty of other metalwork to address.

I guess I leaned back to coyote. A few issues I will need to address to make fit, looks like I will need to slide the master cylinder over. Also will need to modify the motor mounts that came with the TCI kit to get the motor to sit lower so I can put a stock hood on. Maybe I'll try and slide the t-56 in this weekend and see what kind of tunnel work will needs to be done. 

Looks awesome..
Keep the pics coming!

My son and I are doing a similar set up. Check out the post : father/son for pics...good luck
with the rest of your build, I'll be watching.

Currently working on replacing the driver quarter and wheelhousing. Haven't messed with trans yet, but from some preliminary measuring looks like it will be quite a bit. On a side note, dynacorn radiator support, and full wheelhousing are awesome parts, they look and fit just like factory. I wish I could say the same for their quarter panel, it's junk and doesn't even come close to fitting well.

Went with power rack, if you use TCI kit (or most others for that matter), and plan on having ac, then you will need to order this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-174020