I've found that every aftermarket hydraulic roller cam I've used was okay to use with the stock distributor gear.  I always verified this by calling the manufacturer, typically Crane (great tech service BTW).  The Crane cams for years had IG as part of the part number which mean they used an iron gear suitable for use with the stock distributor gear.  IMO, if not clearly stated on the cam card or other literature that comes with the cam I would call the manufacturer to verify.  It might take you 20 minutes on the phone, but no guesswork, and no problems later.

I must say, I've never run a solid roller, but given the valve spring pressures typically found in an vale train that would want to run a solid roller I would have to believe that Huskinhano is spot on about needing a special gear for them. 

Factory cast cams reminds me of a story Smokey Yunick told in his autobiography.  He'd won a race and the powers that be weren't happy about it so they asked for his cam so they could check it.  Back then their checking ability was limited, and guys used to play with the profile specs they couldn't check like overlap, etc.  Mad about being singled out Smokey smacked the cam on a workbench and it broke into three pieces.  He picked up one and handed it to the tech inspector who looked at it like "I can't check this" to which Smokey responded "What's the matter?  All you need is two lobes together right?"  There were probably some expletives in there too for good measure. 
 

A lot of different things can cause the lobes to wear off the cams or dish the lifters out. Right now the quick go to answer for cam manufacturers is improper break in with oil that does not have the correct additives. But yea chebbies have been eating cams for alot of years.

MachTJ wrote:

A lot of different things can cause the lobes to wear off the cams or dish the lifters out. Right now the quick go to answer for cam manufacturers is improper break in with oil that does not have the correct additives. But yea chebbies have been eating cams for alot of years.

I used non-detergent for break in 

mrputz1 wrote:

6sally6 wrote:

When my pal Larry and I put together his dirt track Chevy engine naturally we used all new cam lifters springs etc.
Upon initial "fire-up" another guy stabbed the distributor 180* out. We cranked-& cranked &-cranked  until we figgered out the problem.
Almost positive we flattened a lobe or two. Engine still ran well.....won a few races and placed even more!!
FT cams are so "funny".....its mandatory to have the timing right on.....fuel in the carb...everything.....to give the camshaft a chance  to live.
To OP..........did you have to crank it a lot when you put the new cam and lifters in?!
6s6

not on this one others yes 180 out Belch thru the carb very obvious .
 

THAT was prolly the reason for the flat lobe/eat up lifter!?!
 

I've always adjusted valves when the engine is cold......except that one time  I did it while the engine was running.
Got one too tight and burned an exhaust valve......which is why I now do it on cold engines !!
Pretty simple and ZERO oil spray!
6sal6

mrputz1 wrote:

. did not turn them 1/2 turn after the push rod stopped turning .

Hmmmmmmmmmmm....be careful to not over rev it. The lifters are ALREADY "pumped-up" so the next step is possible piston to valve collision!
Jus say'in.
Glad you gett'in it back on the road though. That's where these old pony cars should be........on-the-road-again!!
6sal6

Last edited by 6sally6 (11/18/2017 9:39 PM)

MachTJ wrote:

A lot of different things can cause the lobes to wear off the cams or dish the lifters out. Right now the quick go to answer for cam manufacturers is improper break in with oil that does not have the correct additives. But yea chebbies have been eating cams for alot of years.

In the mid 70's I worked the parts counter for the mechanics at a Chevy dealer. I sold a lot of cams!
 

if you use a high  volume oil pump never rev  the engine when the oil is thick . You are inviting a disaster . The dist gear will strip the cam shaft gear eventually . been there especially when the dist gear is steel 

mrputz1 wrote:

if you use a high  volume oil pump never rev  the engine when the oil is thick . You are inviting a disaster . The dist gear will strip the cam shaft gear eventually . been there especially when the dist gear is steel 

Yet another reason to NEVER run a high volume oil pump.  SBFs have a good oiling system.  I've yet to see one that needed a high volume oil pump.  If you're going to rev past 6,500 you might want to shim the bypass spring, otherwise just check the clearances in the pump and do a quick debur job and run a stock pump.  Remember all you need is 10psi of oil pressure per 1,000 RPM.  A stock pump typically puts out double that.  As for volume, with a standard volume pump running down the 1/4 mile you will suck almost the entire pan through the system by the end of the track.  Moving that kind of oil, clearly volume is not an issue. 

High volume pumps also take more power to drive, and as noted put additional stress on the distributor gear and drive shaft (ever seen one of these twisted up like a swizel stick?). 

More is not always better, and in fact often its worse, and this is a prime example.