Heck, that's gonna be a $1,000 stand real quick. I like the use of the O2 gauge. Top shelf no doubt.

Super job.  Can't wait to see it in use.

FABRICATION IS DONE...well sort of.  Got it all welded up and all the rest of the pieces installed.  I am not wiring it until the 351 is ready to fire up.  At that point I will install all the electronics  for the test fire and after said test fire I will take it all apart one last time and have it powder coated.  I figure there will be some minor adjustments that will need to be made to run it so I won't cote it until I have had the opportunity to make those adjustments.  No pix to post because there isn't really much different to see.  I figure the 351 will be ready to go some time next month (still ordering parts) and will post more info when we I have more to post.

Short answer is no.  Long answer is:

No but maybe.  I have a megasquirt ECU I assembled quite a few years ago and I am going to use it to fuel inject the 302 in the Galaxie.  I am working on converting a performer intake to EFI includingthe post I made about my throttle body modification.  Some time after I get it converted the 302 will be replaced with the 351 and I haven't decided if I want to modify a 351 intake for EFI or leave the EFI on the 302 (the 302 is headed for the Mustang) Sooooo I guess the answer is "undecided"

Great. More please.

MS wrote:

Now all you need is a piece of 3" diameter PVC pipe sticking straight up, just tall enough so you can fill it with water and make static pressure equal to about 15PSI.  That will let you check the cooling system at pressure before you even start the engine.
 

 
35 feet of pipe should do it.

Couldn't one just use one of the many coolant pressure testers already on the market?   Or am I missing some Rube Goldberg references here?     

Daze wrote:

MS wrote:

Now all you need is a piece of 3" diameter PVC pipe sticking straight up, just tall enough so you can fill it with water and make static pressure equal to about 15PSI.  That will let you check the cooling system at pressure before you even start the engine.
 

Another option is to take a bicycle inner-tube and cut through it opposite the air fitting.  Attach one cut end to each hose inlet on the radiator.  then pump it up to 15psi and walk away.  if it doesn't loose air than there are no leaks.
 

 
Wrap that innertube with duck tape or filament tape to keep it from balooning and you just might have a tool there.

Looks good Daze.......continue with the updates

Daze wrote:

Getting closer.  The 351W is all sealed up and now its just a mater of getting everything hooked up on the run stand.  Glad I weighted to have it powder coated until after I used it the first time.  Already had to make a couple of modifications to the stand.    Looks Great!  What distributor did you end up going with the roller camshaft?

Daze wrote:

Steve69 wrote:

Looks Great!  What distributor did you end up going with the roller camshaft? 

I just used a stock duraspark distributor.  I always use an MSD 6a box so the distributor is nothing more than a trigger.  I have it set at 10º advanced for initial start up and than will fine tune it after I fire it up.  

 

  Did you find one with a steel gear or did you change the gear?    What year Distributor and where did you buy it?  Thanks
 

Steve69 wrote:

  Did you find one with a steel gear or did you change the gear?    What year Distributor and where did you buy it?  Thanks
 

I never could get a strait answer as to what gear I needed.  Some places had cast iron listed, other places said steel.  My solution was to buy a duraspark distributor for a late 70s to early 80s 351W. Then I simply swapped out the gears between the new distributor and the distributor that came with the engine.  I knew the gear that came on the 94 OEM distributor was the correct one for the camshaft and by doing it that way I would have exactly what I needed.

Michael H. wrote:

Looks great!  You're making me want to build one!

It has been a fun project.  I won't use it that often so I probably wouldn't have done it had I nedded to buy everything.  All the steel and parts probably would have run me close to $500 or more but since I had most o f what I needed I don't have much into it, those parts are getting used and this is going to be a fantastic tool for break-ins, tuning or if I need to sell a running engine.