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7/15/2018 3:49 PM  #1


I failed my state inspection.

One of the brake lights didn't work. Got to fooling around with the light bulb and the connection and it started to work but the other side didn't. In confused frustration (?!), I went home and studied the electrical schematic. As discussed in another recent thread the brake lights go through the turn signal switch. I had fixed it several years ago but this time when I took it out I found the wire contacts worn out and I broke an old solder joint I fixed last time, so I replaced it. Of course it isn't very good quality. I refused to buy a sd brand based on the responses here so I bought the other brand. I guess it doesn't matter what brand you buy. Got it all put back together and my ignition switch broke. When I start the engine the plunger doesn't spring back to turn off the starter. There are a lot of brands of ignition switches on the market for a 70 Mustang as long as you modify it. 70 is an off year so only 71 thru 73 switches are available.  Which brand do you think is the best? The one I have now (sd brand) is only a couple of months old, that is why I am asking. I'm tired of going into the steering column. I'm thinking Standard or NAPA?


70, ragtop 351W/416 stroker Edel Performer heads w pro flow 4, Comp roller 35-421-8. T5
 

7/15/2018 5:00 PM  #2


Re: I failed my state inspection.

So the car is a '70?  I see on Rock Auto they list the same switch for the '70 and '71.  They have both Airtex/Wells and Standard Motor Products listed.  I've used a lot of Airtex/Wells stuff on my '89 GT project, mostly to replace connector bodies that have failed by depinning a replacement plug/pigtail and repinning the old wires into it.  This far I've had no issues with any of their stuff I've bought.  Might have used some SMP stuff too, can't recall exactly. 

NAPA should carry Echlin, which I've always found to be satisfactory for anything I've used it for in the past, and I buy a LOT from NAPA because they're five minutes from my house.

Last edited by TKOPerformance (7/15/2018 5:02 PM)

 

7/15/2018 6:26 PM  #3


Re: I failed my state inspection.

If you had a 69 John, I'd let you have one of my oem ignition switches.


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

7/15/2018 8:20 PM  #4


Re: I failed my state inspection.

Yes it's a 70. 70 is the first year the Mustang had the ignition key in the column. The switch is located on top of the column right forward of the steering wheel in front of the dash. Still relatively easy to get to. Because of that the 70 wire harness down to the plug connection is long enough to reach behind the panel. On the 71 - 73 Mustangs and later the ignition switch is behind the instrument panel on top of the column and therefore has a shorter wire harness and a non-matching plug. So the wire harness has to to be cut off the old switch and attached to the new one. Not because I can't repin it but because I need the wire length. So mechanically it does fit but electrically it is for the later cars. I don't have a problem with that, I can change it. I just don't want to get another cheap switch that lasts only a couple of months like the current one that I have. 
Thanks for the thought rpm, it would be a lot easier to install a 69 switch. - (Doug) HudginJ3


70, ragtop 351W/416 stroker Edel Performer heads w pro flow 4, Comp roller 35-421-8. T5
     Thread Starter
 

7/15/2018 11:52 PM  #5


Re: I failed my state inspection.

Doug? Oops sorry about that.


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

7/16/2018 4:42 AM  #6


Re: I failed my state inspection.

Ah Ford and their one year only stuff.

 

7/16/2018 6:31 AM  #7


Re: I failed my state inspection.

I got one of the Airtex/Wells '71-'73 switches last year from Rock Auto for like $11 shipped.  I had to lengthen and graft the '70 plug on the harness.  Make sure you stagger the slices to keep the harness bulk down

 

7/17/2018 2:16 PM  #8


Re: I failed my state inspection.

On a 70, there is a small roll pin that attaches the key switch plunger to the actual ignition switch.  I had a 70 where that pin came out, causing your same symptoms. Hopefully it is a simple fix with no new parts as mine was.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

7/17/2018 2:46 PM  #9


Re: I failed my state inspection.

And the reason it was a one year switch might have just been explained...

 

7/17/2018 4:23 PM  #10


Re: I failed my state inspection.

I have the tilt column. It has a Z type rod between the switch and the key lock. I took the Z rod out and pushed the switch rod. It goes in but doesn't come out. It als has a gritty feel to when pushing it in and pulling it out. I thing the return spring is broken or there isn't enough grease someplace. Bad enough to want to replace it with a good quality part.


70, ragtop 351W/416 stroker Edel Performer heads w pro flow 4, Comp roller 35-421-8. T5
     Thread Starter
 

Board footera


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