| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
Offline
I've been working on gathering all the material I need so I can rewire my 1965 289 v8c4 coupe mustang. I'm curious how the neutral saftey switch wiring runs. I have the old wring I realize it plugs into the reverse lights via black red and the red blue hook up to the switch on the the trans. My question is do I only hook up the one Male black red wire then leave the female black red cconnector as well as the red blue connectors that also come in from the firewall?
Last edited by True74yamaha (11/09/2018 8:36 PM)
Offline
Below is the wiring diagram for 64-65 Mustangs. The black-red wire to the Neutral Switch is fed directly from the fuse block and is hot all the time. There shouldn't be any red-blue wire in this circuit. Also, this circuit does not go through the firewall bulkhead connectors. I believe these wires go under the rug to the floor opening for the shifter, and then to the 2-prong connector to the transmission.
Offline
Two Black-Red back-up light wires from the cabin to the PRNDL switch at the trans selector shaft. One of these from the fuse panel and one from the rear harness (back up lights) near the left kick panel.
Two Red-Blue start circuit wires from the male-female bullet connector under the dash to the PRNDL switch at the trans. One of these wires is from the Ignition Switch and the other goes through the firewall connector to the "S" lug on the starter solenoid. If you had a manual trans, these two wires would just plug together under the dash but with the C4 they both run to the trans and get connected together by the PRNDL switch.
You may need to check the PRNDL switch with an OHM meter to determine which pins are closed when the trans is in reverse and which are closed in neutral or park.
I honestly can't recall exactly how the four wires got from the dash to the side of the trans but I seem to think that they didn't go through the shifter hole. Of course, if you are doing a custom harness you can get them there any way you want.
BB
Offline
Here's a couple of links to Average Joe Restoration that show the two circuits you are concerned about.
BB
Offline
Awesome guys much appreciated. One other thing I thought I'd get y'alls opinion on. I do realize that stock position would be ideal for the new fuse block. I have a center console and factory A/C. I have no room to mount the new block on the drivers side and have it out of the way and clean. I am planning on mounting the block in the glove box. I do realize the heater is near that area. I am using high temp wire and and high temp loom covering. Do you guys see any problem with mounting the box on the passenger side?
Offline
In our 66 Mustang and the Falcon project I built accessory fuse panels using four-gang, snap together fuse blocks and mounted them under the glove box. There's just enough room to mount the panel on a sheet metal tab that bolts to the bottom edge of the dash. It will clear the heater and can't be seen unless you lay in the foot well and look up. There are probably more visible locations but this seem to work pretty well.
BB
Last edited by Bullet Bob (11/11/2018 11:33 AM)
Offline
Bullet Bob wrote:
In our 66 Mustang and the Falcon project I built accessory fuse panels using four-gang, snap together fuse blocks and mounted them under the glove box. There's just enough room to mount the panel on a sheet metal tab that bolts to the bottom edge of the dash. It will clear the heater and can't be seen unless you lay in the foot well and look up. There are probably more visible locations but this seem to work pretty well.
BB
Great minds think alike that is the basis of what I was planning on building.
Offline
Try Terminal Supply for all your needs. Good source except for wire, for that I go to Allied Cable.
BB
Offline
I'll have to check out your two sources. I also have gone through
they have every color striped tracer wire color available.
Offline
Tracered wire? Great, I'll have to check THEM out. Thanks.
BB
Offline
Holy moly...you weren't kidding. Wish I had found them earlier. Thanks again. I didn't check the specs, is that good GXL insulated wire that will handle some temp?
BB
Offline
Seems like great quality wire for the money.
I don't see the heat specs. For the wire.
Striped Tracer Wire
Sherco Auto & Marine Supply's Striped Marine Tracer Primary Wire is constructed from Type III Class K tinned copper. It is then jacketed with a durable, flexible, high quality PVC insulation. This wire meets the requirements and standards of UL, ABYC and NMMA. .
Stranded, Tinned copper conductorsHighly flexible color coded insulationAnnealed Finely Stranded Tinned Copper ASTM b172 Class KResistant to: Acid, Alkali, Abrasion, Flame, Gasoline, Oil, Moisture
Another source I found was.
Last edited by True74yamaha (11/11/2018 7:04 PM)
Offline
True74yamaha wrote:
Seems like great quality wire for the money.
I don't see the heat specs. For the wire.
Striped Tracer Wire
Sherco Auto & Marine Supply's Striped Marine Tracer Primary Wire is constructed from Type III Class K tinned copper. It is then jacketed with a durable, flexible, high quality PVC insulation. This wire meets the requirements and standards of UL, ABYC and NMMA. .
Stranded, Tinned copper conductorsHighly flexible color coded insulationAnnealed Finely Stranded Tinned Copper ASTM b172 Class KResistant to: Acid, Alkali, Abrasion, Flame, Gasoline, Oil, Moisture
Another source I found was.
I've used Sherco for several years (wire, fuse blocks, heat shrink, hardware items, etc) and have been pleased with the products they sell.
You may want to look at "Blue Sea" and "Cooper-Bussman" products for fuse blocks. Blue Sea is more boating related but they make nice compact fuse blocks.
Last edited by BobE (11/12/2018 8:55 AM)
Offline
BobE wrote:
True74yamaha wrote:
Seems like great quality wire for the money.
I don't see the heat specs. For the wire.
Striped Tracer Wire
Sherco Auto & Marine Supply's Striped Marine Tracer Primary Wire is constructed from Type III Class K tinned copper. It is then jacketed with a durable, flexible, high quality PVC insulation. This wire meets the requirements and standards of UL, ABYC and NMMA. .
Stranded, Tinned copper conductorsHighly flexible color coded insulationAnnealed Finely Stranded Tinned Copper ASTM b172 Class KResistant to: Acid, Alkali, Abrasion, Flame, Gasoline, Oil, Moisture
Another source I found was.I've used Sherco for several years (wire, fuse blocks, heat shrink, hardware items, etc) and have been pleased with the products they sell.
You may want to look at "Blue Sea" and "Cooper-Bussman" products for fuse blocks. Blue Sea is more boating related but they make nice compact fuse blocks.
That's awesome great to know!
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |