FYI FORD - MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum
The Internet's Most Knowledgeable Classic Mustang Information
IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT CLASSIC FORD MUSTANGS, YOU HAVE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE!
MustangSteve has over 30 years of Mustang experience, having owned 30 of them and restored several others. With the help of other Mustangers, this site is dedicated to helping anyone wanting to restore or modify their Mustang.... THERE ARE NO DUMB QUESTIONS!!!!!
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for:
FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events

You are not logged in. Would you like to login or register?

11/25/2018 8:58 PM  #1


Over sized holes

Went to put the window trim clips on my car and came across some that had been striped out.
Here is how I fixed it, I got some paper clips cut some pieces and put it in the holes while I held the clip and installed the screw. Worked great!

 

11/26/2018 12:21 PM  #2


Re: Over sized holes

I usually run into that problem with the sheetmetal screws that hold the sill plates to the rocker panel.  Paper clip wire is a good idea for a way to do it!
I have used a small length of sheetmetal, like 20 gauge, cut 1/16" wide x 1" long.  Bend 90 degrees about 1/2" from the end and stick it in the hole.  That always works.  Long ago, I even used a short length of stranded wire stuck in the hole.  Any port in a storm...

After I started building cars for others, I would take the MIG welder and weld around the hole.  That will NEVER give it up!  Welding a nut into the sheetmetal to accept a machine thread screw is the best long term fix.  For anyone welding in new floor pans, that is a good time to do it.  Just drill out the hole large enough for a hex nut to fit flush with the metal.  Use a 3" long screw in the hex nut as a handle while welding the nut in place.  This is so much better than the factory's sheet metal screws designed to go together great ONE TIME and then forget about it.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

11/26/2018 1:09 PM  #3


Re: Over sized holes

What are your solutions for post paint?  One of the holes holding in the side view mirrors is stripped out.  Previous owner just went 2 sizes up on the sheetmetal screw which worked but then the mistmatch screw sticks out like a sore thumb.  I tried to fill the hole w/ some JB Weld and then re-drilling it but it didn't hold.  I'm hesitant to do any welding b/c of the damage to the paint plus the thin material.

 

11/26/2018 3:03 PM  #4


Re: Over sized holes

T-W
I would use a rivnut. With some factory mirror replacement kits rivnuts came with them. They were the kind that I used on airplanes. If they are installed properly they will take a lot of pressure and hold up real good. I think they are better than some of the ones that don't have a head on them. The gasket holds the mirror off the rivetnut and has a big enough hole in it to go around the head of the rivnut. They take machine screws. You need a special tool for them is the only problem, but worth it.


70, ragtop 351W/416 stroker Edel Performer heads w pro flow 4, Comp roller 35-421-8. T5
 

11/26/2018 5:54 PM  #5


Re: Over sized holes

you don't have to have the special tool to put in the riv nuts. I have put them in with some washers, bolt and a couple of nuts. Just google DIY rivnut tool


67 Coupe, 5.0 EEC IV Fuel injected. T5, 3:70 rear
 

12/02/2018 9:53 PM  #6


Re: Over sized holes

Harbor Freight sells a rivnut kit for a decent price. Includes the squeezer tool and an assortment of the rivnuts. Oddly they don't sell just the rivnuts by themselves. You have to buy the whole kit but you can buy the rivnuts elsewhere.

 

12/03/2018 6:59 AM  #7


Re: Over sized holes

The rivnut is a great way to fix something like that but many times I’ve done what MS suggested with a paper clip. That works very well too especially if you don’t have the room or space to use a rivnut.


I'm not a complete idiot.....pieces are missing. Tom
 

12/03/2018 2:05 PM  #8


Re: Over sized holes

Texas! wrote:

Harbor Freight sells a rivnut kit for a decent price. Includes the squeezer tool and an assortment of the rivnuts. Oddly they don't sell just the rivnuts by themselves. You have to buy the whole kit but you can buy the rivnuts elsewhere.

 
You can find any size rivnut you need on eBay.

 

12/03/2018 2:44 PM  #9


Re: Over sized holes

The Harbour freight Rivnuts are soft aluminum so be very careful not to over tighten them, they will strip out very easily.
 The A/N Rivnuts are a  harder alloy and anodised, much more substantial but a tad harder to install.

 These are ones I used from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty.NAS1329A3K80Keyed.010-.075.43810-32$0.23

Last edited by Rudi (12/03/2018 2:49 PM)


Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
 

12/03/2018 8:39 PM  #10


Re: Over sized holes

After buying some 10-32 rivnuts at Fastenall I discovered that my HF rivnut install tool only did 10-24's  So...I fired up the lathe and made an arbor...or whatever it's called ...to install the 10-32's with the HF tool.  Couple of weeks later a friend was telling me that he had bought some 10-32 rivnuts for a project.  Said he had a 10-32 tool but had to order the rivnuts somewhere.  I asked where he got the tool and he says...HF.  I asked him to show it to me and...sure enough....back to the lathe.  Butt (TS&T), it was fun making those little devils and I learned how to cut left-handed threads.

BB


"you get what you pay for, good work isn't cheap, and there are NO free lunches...PERIOD!"
 

12/04/2018 6:25 PM  #11


Re: Over sized holes

Rivnuts are also prone to failure.  70 Mustangs used them.  If the screw gets corroded, the rivnut simply spins, and that becomes a REAL PROBLEM.  They do work OK, bu tbe aware of future issues you may have, especially if you use the aluminum ones.

Best fix for door mirrors...

A piece of 1/2" x 1/8" barstock about an inch longer than the center to center distance of the mirrot holes.  Use the mirror as a template and drill/tap two holes into the barstock.  Paint it to keep it from rusting.  Put a bead of RTV on one flat side and stick it up under the sheetmetal of the door.  Attach the mirror with machine screws threaded into the barstock, sandwiching the door skin between.  This is a permanent fix to a sheetmetal screw stripout problem.  The RTV is only there so you won't have to remove the door panel to replace the mirror, should the need ever arise.
Note that the screws for 65/66 mirrors (and maybe other years) have a reduced diameter head on them, so finding machine screws might be tricky.  You could also use a strip of sheetmetal, slightly thicker than the door skin, then reuse the factory screws.  You should NEVER use a drill bit to put holes in sheet metal.   Use an ice pick or a nail or sharp punch.  That puts a raised side on the hole, allowing the screw to get a better grip.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

Board footera


REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on.