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I’m mostly looking at what it takes to put one into my 66. It’s just a excercise at this point. I’m already running a 94 Explorer aluminum driveshaft. It’s the perfect length and apparently early or V6 versions use 1310 U joints. I still have the companion flange. If I found a 8.8 with either 3.08 or 3.27’s and limited slip Explorer at my local pick n pull on 1/2 price day and I can use my aluminum driveshaft as is, I may give this more thought. I’d shorten the driver’s side axle but that’s the limit to modifications other wise it’ll turn into that free puppy syndrome
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I wonder if the 94 explorer drive shaft would fit my 65 with a C6 and 9”....
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I am running an Explorer 8.8 in our 66 Mustang. I researched a couple of ways to do the narrowing and decided to do it myself by cutting the left axle tube rather than grinding out the center section plug and pulling the tube.
It was a fairly straight forward and easy project and setting up used 3.55 gears seemed pretty simple compared to dealing with the 8"/9" drop-out center section setup. It solved all my howl and vibration complaints, gave me rear disc brakes, and limited slip.
I blew off and ground down all the unwanted castings and various suspension bracketry before
disassembly. Then I pulled the axles, gears and bearings and sent the housing out for a good steam cleaning. I marked the tubes for location of the new spring perches and cut the left tube so as to locate the weld under the left spring perch. (If I ever do another one I think I'll cut the tube about three inches from the center section next time. Seems like it would be just as good and would be easier to straighten...maybe). I then removed 2.875" from the remaining left tube and welded the cut off stub back on. To keep things straight I found a length of 1.5 or 1.25" tubing...(this wasn't Shelby tube but was easier to find seamed tube that my micrometer says is nearly perfectly round) and made aluminum collars that clamp in the carrier brg. saddles and hold the tube centered in the axle housing. Then I made end collars that slip onto the centering tube and fit into the axle tube ends when everything is centered. This setup served as a welding jig for the left axle tube and was then used to do the final straightning.
If you decide to do your on narrowing I will gladly loan my straightning setup for the cost of two-way shipping.
I have some pix of this project someplace but can't seem to find then right now. Will post them later if I find them.
Good luck...it's a fun project.
Ok, I just found about 30 photos of the project...way too many to post here. There are some posted somewhere on this forum from early 2015 or you can PM me your email and I'll send them to you if you decide to do this.
BB
Last edited by Bullet Bob (12/03/2018 6:41 PM)
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BB, back when Photobucket was extorting everyone I built my own website to host my pictures, projects, and misc ramblings. If you want I could host the pics for you and provide you with links to them. There's no advertising, just links to the pics like this
Last edited by Raymond_B (12/03/2018 7:24 PM)
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Brents65 wrote:
I wonder if the 94 explorer drive shaft would fit my 65 with a C6 and 9”....
I doubt it, as my C6 is about 6" longer the C4.
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Concerning the welding and "holding everything straight"....youtuber use "channel arn"(iron) and C-clamped it in place while he "tacked-it-off"(welder talk) Going 12 o'clock/6 o'clock/3'clock/9 o'clock. Loks like that worked pretty well. He did do a LOT of checking while welding to control warpage.
FYI...........you can make a big tack(@ 12 o'clock) and immediately roll it around so the tack is at the 6 o'clock position to limit/eliminate warping. The heat tends to "draws" the two pieces toward each other. By rotating the piece...the heat travels to cool (natural occurance) and AWAY from the hot tack! Good way to control weld.
6s6
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Raymond_B wrote:
BB, back when Photobucket was extorting everyone I built my own website to host my pictures, projects, and misc ramblings. If you want I could host the pics for you and provide you with links to them. There's no advertising, just links to the pics like this
Man I envy you guys that know how to get around in this digital world. I thought I was pretty good when I figured out how to build graphic power system simulators in Excell back in 97. Now I don't know diddly. Do you know how to load EEC-IV stragities and Bin files into Tuner Pro and a Moates Q-horse?.........Just wondering.
I might take you up on your website offer, thanks. I'll let you know.
BB
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A few years ago when my son was in HS, he drove an 83 S10 pickup, with a warmed up 350/700r4 combo. Under his piloting, the original rear end did not hold up long. We went the narrowed Explorer 8.8 route. We would do it again in a heartbeat (pun intended).
1) Jr. was on a budget, and went and met with the owner of the local drive shaft shop about the shaft for the bowtie to Ford application. Jr. paid retail for the driveshaft, but the shop owner offered to narrow the 8.8 housing and install the spring perches. He had the proper jig to weld it straight.
2) We pulled a 3.73L item out of a 98ish Expl at the pick and pull. When we got to the check out, my son told proprietor he didn't want any warranty, and we got it for $75, including good calipers, pads, rotors, and parking brake cables. We even got the flange and goofy dealer only star head bolts. Extra $20 for the second short side axle.
3) Redrilled axles and rotors for the bowtie bolt pattern, and new studs. (knowing Jr would not carry 2 spare tires)
4) New C4 prop valve for disc/disc application
5) I required Jr. to buy new soft lines for the 8.8, and we tabbed up the necessary hard lines.
6) 4 cable clamps to get the functional parking brake
It was back on the road in one weekend. Of course, Jr. elected to trust the PNP LSD unit, and 2 weeks later we pulled the whole thing apart again to fix the worn out LSD.
A year later, he swapped the 700R4 tranny to a T56, and that 8.8 never complained. It is a great mod.
EDIT: A word of warning on old/used/high mileage 8.8 axles..... even new axle seals won't keep them from leaking......
Last edited by TimC (12/03/2018 9:02 PM)
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I'm running a 8.8 with 3:55 in my 66 with a AOD .It goes down the highway very well.
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TimC wrote:
Wow Tim, that's almost exactly where I cut mine.
BB
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I did the 8.8 and adapted the emergency brake as well, also modified the later 8.8 rear diff cover
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TimC wrote:
Real nice tig welding skill there Tim.
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Bullet Bob wrote:
Raymond_B wrote:
BB, back when Photobucket was extorting everyone I built my own website to host my pictures, projects, and misc ramblings. If you want I could host the pics for you and provide you with links to them. There's no advertising, just links to the pics like this
Man I envy you guys that know how to get around in this digital world. I thought I was pretty good when I figured out how to build graphic power system simulators in Excell back in 97. Now I don't know diddly. Do you know how to load EEC-IV stragities and Bin files into Tuner Pro and a Moates Q-horse?.........Just wondering.
I might take you up on your website offer, thanks. I'll let you know.
BB
We each have our niche
I haven't used that software, but I've been hacking EECs since back when it was just Hex files and looking for patterns! So let me know.
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Just an FYI...
I swapped a 1998 mustang GT 8.8 with a 3.27 posi in my 67 convertible. Easy swap. Cut off non needed brackets and weld on perches. The pumpkin is centered on these 8.8’s. This rearend is wider but is perfect for running the 99-04 bullitt wheels. No spacers needed.
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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone's response. I'm a little late getting to it. On my phone, the pictures show up large and only partially and have been busy , couldn't log on my pc at home. I'm not sure if I'll go this way but I'm going to look into it more.
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Gear ratio I would go with a 3.40 or 3.55
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