TKOPerformance wrote:

I tend to solder everything, or use Solder Seal terminals which contain solder and shrink tubing and can be installed with just a heat gun.  The local NAPA carries them.  I've never had a failure of either.  I think what you've heard about not soldering comes from a concern about the lack of flexibility to connection creates and possible wire embrittlement from the heat.  If I need flexibility I just solder in a spot where the wires don't need to flex, and I think you would have to use WAY too much heat soldering to adversely effect the wire. 

I will say this about locating the air intake, if the filter is in the engine bay an unprotected open element filter is a bad idea.  The 5.0s used an airbox for a reason.  The filter can pick up eddy currents in the air generated by the engine fan.  This tricks the MAF into thinking the air entering the engine is fluctuating, and can lead to an unstable idle.  This took me several years to figure out.  We used to just think that the unstable idle was due to the car being modified.  Then we shielded the first air filter and the idle immediately improved and we all felt like dumb@$$es.  On a 5.0 I would always run a fenderwell CAI.  I'm using an Anderson one of my '89 GT. 

Hearing about your trans swap I would want to go through all that and make sure it was done correctly.  Manual and automatic 5.0s ran different ECUs with different BINs.  Part of this was due to the differences in idle characteristics between an engine that freewheels completely at idle and one that has some parasitic drag from a torque converter/trans pump.  On the up side the automatics tended to have a bit more aggressive fuel and spark curves to try and equalize performance with the manual trans cars. 

These are all great points! I solder and heat shrink everything.  I just don't care for the butt connectors.

Second point you made:  The straight tube between the air cleaner and the MAS was non-existent s

Coupedaddy wrote:

Pray all is well I have a painless wiring harness I may be willing to let go PM with a offer it’s new in the box I was holding on to in case I switch back to a stock 5.0 computer set up I LMK how you want it Or what parts you need I what I am say in my Cajun Ebonics let me know what to worth to you it will be easier to hide the harness most things that are not needed are already eliminated and it comes with a check engine light too lol it will be easier to diagnose with a good harness 

Thanks!! I will absolutely remember that if our home made attempt doesn’t work! We are trying not to split with the dough just yet, but if I fail, that harness  will be my next plan. 🙂

TremendousWand wrote:

1966 Mustang Coupe, 1988 5.0 Swap, GT40 Swap, EFI-MAF

Well I did just this.  Too long to go into the details but you really are better off just getting a full wiring kit. I bought the Ford EFI kit and the 1966 Mustang Chassis kit from Painless.  I also installed the Dakota Digital gauge set.  All in all just parts (wiring) ~$2400.  

Electrical work sucks.  No body likes to do it and you really can't get help from anyone else b/c it's impossible to track down problems w/o doing a deep dive.  Starting from scratch is the way to do it.  That way you know exactly what is there.  That's the bad news... good news is it's just a slow and steady job.  Work section by section.  Took me most 8 weeks of weekends on and off but I got it done.  Good crimper, good ground, good tape... 

Discussion forums help, but really what you are paying for is technical support.  Those painless guys are kind of assholes but you will get legit technical support rather than someone's best guess.  You need to think ahead to.  Going to add an audio system with an amp?  Going to run MDS setup? Electrical Fan?  A/C? Digitial Gauges???  Way easier to plan head now.

It wasn't easy but I ended up doing it all myself and because of exactly what you are trying to do.  The fool who wired the car before me just spliced and diced some junker cheapo harness to make it run and was a nightmare from the get go.  

I'm in the Dallas area.

All Duly Noted.  We are trying to stay cheap on this right now because he wants to have money for a good heat/ac system.  I have time to try to get it together before we rip it all out and start over, so if we can save some cash, great but we are ready to start from scratch if we have to.  I'll keep all your experience in mind..  Thanks!
 

Preliminary findings are that I need, at least, the motor side original wire harness for the guages.  Is ording something like this a good or bad idea?  I don't have an original.  Of course it's the cheapest one...lol  Automotive Electrical is not my strong point.  I had to get out the owners manual to figure out how to hook up the battery when I was ready to start my 66 for the first time.. Give me 110v any day.....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Ford-Mustang-Gauge-Feed-Wiring-Harness-with-8-cylinder-Engine/273532119817?fits=Year%3A1966%7CModel%3AMustang&epid=2016101923&hash=item3fafc8eb09:g:J1gAAOSw8gVX2bOu


 

6sally6 wrote:

.....The "prodigal son/daughter" RETURNZ!!!

6sally6
We be fix you up, gurrrrll!

 
Howdy, Sally!!!

Still frying’ bacon like a pro! Wish that skill could get me past this electrical issue though. First step is to move the computer to under the dash I think? 

I’m staring at this spaghetti mess of wires and walking away in disgust. I don’t know where to start with it.

The dash and heater box etc is completely disassembled so I have decent access to everything. The dash harness isn’t secured so that’s easy too.

Should I replace the old, glass fuse box with a new style?

Hey Steve!

​I don't know yet..the exhaust is still in the attic. I'll ask Ross to look for it this afternoon and report back.
 

Thanks Bob!

​50vert..yes sir.  we will be running air conditioning...
 

Thanks, Hornman... that would definitely be a consideration..but I have to buy a radiator anyway.  I don't have the stock radiator.  I've searched to try to find a drop in substitute for this application, but apparently i'm not finding it because it doesn't exist.  I can buy radiators all day long for as little as $100 so to have to pay $300 for one ....eek...

I'm gonna take the liberty of correcting the identity of Gaba's motor itself to a '69 302 originally installed in a Fairlane or Torino.  We did confirm the crank is at least not 289 and the casting code under the starter dictates the engine is 302.

Gaba, message me or Larry and I will forward you a picture of your casting code. 

 

Depends on what you want the end result to be.  It's impossible to have a show car, or even a nice daily driver without taking the car apart.  If you don't want a perfect finish or a color change, do as Steve says and scuff it, (I would add that spraying a sealer before paint would be a wise move) and shoot it with a single state.  Your paint will only look as good as your masking care though.

If you start any bodywork,meaning bondo work you  have to remember that anything NOT professional grade that you topcoat it with will have to be sanded off later.  Most of the professional products (primer, epoxy, bondo, sealer) that you use to get a car ready to paint are not UV resistant.  That means you must paint within a window specified by the manufacturer or these products will turn to dust.  Also you simply can't 'handle' any of these finishes and expect to get the oils and debris off to paint it later.