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FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » This stuff works perfect on gauges » Yesterday 2:31 PM

MS
Replies: 2

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Matches original perfectly for painting gauge pointers



FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Borgeson Pump vs Ford (67 w/289 PS) » Yesterday 10:50 AM

MS
Replies: 22

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I think Don is running his original Ford pump on his 66 GT with Borgeson box.  Maybe he will see this post and respond

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Borgeson Pump vs Ford (67 w/289 PS) » 4/10/2024 3:53 PM

MS
Replies: 22

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Ron, the OD of your spacers would also play into the durability of the mount. The larger, the better. Plus, being of sufficient strength to not deform.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Borgeson Pump vs Ford (67 w/289 PS) » 4/09/2024 9:43 PM

MS
Replies: 22

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I think the saginaw brackets position the saginaw pump farther outboard. I am thinking it will clear the Ford type compressor.
I have a compressor and brackets that I could verify but am still recovering from back surgery and cannot lift more than about five pounds.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Borgeson Pump vs Ford (67 w/289 PS) » 4/09/2024 9:03 PM

MS
Replies: 22

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Not my best design, but a bracket that adds a third mounting point to the borgeson two-bolt mount will avoid long term problems.  A pump mounted with only two bolts tends to make a “hinge point” about the line between the two bolts. Having a third mount eliminates any bending possibility of the two bolts.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 1966 Convertible Rain Tray mod. » 4/09/2024 8:56 PM

MS
Replies: 3

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Never make a drain get smaller as it travels downward. It either needs to get less restrictive or be at least the exact same size with no reductions in size anywhere.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Borgeson Pump vs Ford (67 w/289 PS) » 4/09/2024 8:38 AM

MS
Replies: 22

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Gotta disagree with you Rudi.  Dan builds a good system, but the Borgeson is just such a huge improvement and simplifies the car by eliminating six of eight hoses plus provides a better steering ratio, all for less money.
The Borgeson’s shortcoming is their mickey mouse pump mounting system.  I modified a 66 Ford bracket to provide proper support.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » When determining length 5.0 roller engine push rods with pedestal » 4/08/2024 2:56 PM

MS
Replies: 11

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Not knocking the guy, but typically guys that “were Ford mechanics for 30 years” are really good at bolting factory stuff back together but are not necessarily adept at modifying anything.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Full Chassis - Roadster Shop » 4/08/2024 2:54 PM

MS
Replies: 15

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If you have to buy an entire rear end, front end rebuild, disc brakes, the whole deal, plus some rocker rust repair, the $12,000 starts to be alot more reasonable.  I just want mine to resemble original stuff, though. 
I enjoy these cars because they are old school, not because they possess the latest tech. I bought my 2017 GT350 because of that, then sold it because “what’s the fun in that?”

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 65/66 adjustable strut rods » 4/07/2024 10:46 AM

MS
Replies: 19

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Wish I had known you wanted some. I plan to remove my Buzek Bars and replace with stock type Moog parts on my 66. They have been on the car since around 2004.  (With no problems other than the clunking)

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » When determining length 5.0 roller engine push rods with pedestal » 4/05/2024 2:45 PM

MS
Replies: 11

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My suggestion in Billy’s case…
Remove valve cover.
Put #1 at TDC.
Back off the rocker bolt until loose.
Adjust to zero lash using fingers to feel the pushrod’s resistance to spinning.
Tighten one-half turn.

Did the bolt torque down properly?  If so, you are done. If not, try tightening 3/4 turn. Did it torque down?   If so, also done

If still loose, then you need to mark the valve tops and see the pattern. Determine if too short or too long by pattern on valve tip

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 289 engine question » 4/04/2024 5:19 PM

MS
Replies: 10

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6sally6 wrote:

I'd guess a grand for some 'old-guy' who is wanting to restore an early Mustang back to near factory condition.
Most of us on here are NOT that guy butt........
6sally6

The only reason I said that much was because all the machine work was already done.  Of course, I assumed .030 bore.  Any more than that and it is worthless in my opinion.
One with no machine work?  Yeah, $200 to $400

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 289 engine question » 4/04/2024 5:17 PM

MS
Replies: 10

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Hold out for an F4TE roller 351 block so you get roller cam. Even if cost is alot more, it is worth it.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 289 engine question » 4/04/2024 7:58 AM

MS
Replies: 10

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If not rusted from sitting, and you can find crank, rods, pistons and cam, it will bring $1,000 or more.
I am not sure whether the five bolt block will increase the value.  It will if somebody really needs it.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Third Part Extended Warranty Experience? » 4/02/2024 9:14 PM

MS
Replies: 16

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6sally6 wrote:

Bought the extended warranty ONE TIME. On a used Chrysler Sebring  rag top (everybody needs at least one convertible in their life) Must a been thru Chrysler. We had a rain leak (they fixed it) some sortuva squeak that ONLY Ms Sally could hear and they fixed it too.
Usually they are a rip......
6sally6

How much did that warranty initially cost you in order to get those two $50 problems fixed for free?

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Third Part Extended Warranty Experience? » 4/02/2024 7:15 PM

MS
Replies: 16

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Rudi wrote:

Haul the Mustang to trips?? What fun is that?
Live dangerously,  keep your money and drive the Mustang, they are supposed to be for trips!😱

Probably more fun than not going on the trip at all, Rudi.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » When determining length 5.0 roller engine push rods with pedestal » 4/02/2024 7:12 PM

MS
Replies: 11

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BILLY,
You need to use that vacuum gauge to see if your pushrods are adjusted or not before you go ripping into stuff that might be just fine as-is

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Have you ever looked at the Garage Points page? » 4/01/2024 7:19 PM

MS
Replies: 3

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Greg B wrote:

In addition, me and Day have sent several things back and forth over the years that fit "other" Fords that never made it on there.  Always been a great forum!

You should add those!   Parts are parts!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Third Part Extended Warranty Experience? » 4/01/2024 6:58 PM

MS
Replies: 16

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I never buy ANY extended warranty period.
Coupedaddy works for one of those companies. Maybe he has an opinion that might help you.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Have you ever looked at the Garage Points page? » 4/01/2024 7:49 AM

MS
Replies: 3

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The members of this forum have generated a huge supply of Mustang parts donated to other members to further the hobby. And this is NOT an April Fool’s joke.

I was perusing that forum today, and the list has gone on and on for years. 

I am proud I started this Mustang tradition.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Electric choke stuuck on Holley » 4/01/2024 7:12 AM

MS
Replies: 20

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Ron68 wrote:

MS wrote:

Ron68 wrote:

I just finished rebuilding my Holley 4160 (450 cfm) on my 65 vert. It was stalling when going into turns occasionally and it had an off idle stumble. The choke was working fine, but it had those issues. I found some debris in the chamber that the power valve screwed into, but not much else internally. I did find that it had only six screws holding the throttle plate on instead of eight. The middle two were missing. After blowing everything clean, replacing all the seals and gaskets, I installed a new power valve. My old one was an 8.5 and the new one in the kit was a 6.5. I had adjusted the float chamber levels earlier, so when I replaced the float valves I had measured them with a feeler gauge. I set them to those settings, adjusted the idle mixture screws out 1 1/2 turns and set the automatic choke at the required setting of one mark toward lean. It had been on four, so the choke was a bit weak. I actually still have the choke stove setup.  It started and ran pretty well, and the stalling and off idle stumble are gone. Tomorrow I'm gonna hook up a vacuum gauge and fine tune the idle screws, and hopefully it will be good to go for a long while yet.

There are only six screws. Two holes do not have screws.

Well, mine do now. I found a couple that fit and put them in. Carb seems to work fine with them in. Will there be an issue with them in there? I'm a novice with Holley carbs....
 

I need to verify since it has been a while since i looked at one, but I think the
center one can also be a vacuum port for power valve on some carbs.  They are always missing two screws from the factory.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » where is the link to breaking in the rear gears to a Car?? » 3/31/2024 8:49 PM

MS
Replies: 10

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BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

So with a Eaton Truetrac new pinion gears is it differnt than traditional  set up as far as breaking in....I keep googling Breaking in Eaton Truetrak and it says no break in and no friction additives just GL5 rated 80w-90 gear oil should be used. 

You want to break in your new GEARS, not the atri-Trac

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Electric choke stuuck on Holley » 3/31/2024 8:42 PM

MS
Replies: 20

Go to post

Ron68 wrote:

I just finished rebuilding my Holley 4160 (450 cfm) on my 65 vert. It was stalling when going into turns occasionally and it had an off idle stumble. The choke was working fine, but it had those issues. I found some debris in the chamber that the power valve screwed into, but not much else internally. I did find that it had only six screws holding the throttle plate on instead of eight. The middle two were missing. After blowing everything clean, replacing all the seals and gaskets, I installed a new power valve. My old one was an 8.5 and the new one in the kit was a 6.5. I had adjusted the float chamber levels earlier, so when I replaced the float valves I had measured them with a feeler gauge. I set them to those settings, adjusted the idle mixture screws out 1 1/2 turns and set the automatic choke at the required setting of one mark toward lean. It had been on four, so the choke was a bit weak. I actually still have the choke stove setup.  It started and ran pretty well, and the stalling and off idle stumble are gone. Tomorrow I'm gonna hook up a vacuum gauge and fine tune the idle screws, and hopefully it will be good to go for a long while yet.

There are only six screws. Two holes do not have screws.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Door window alignment - Opinions please » 3/28/2024 5:38 PM

MS
Replies: 17

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Always use at least two layers of masking tape wrapped on the edges of the door access holes.

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