Like everyone we all have our favorite sources and methods, but I swear by these guys and how they recommend doing all things paint and body. https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/_files/ugd/8ced3e_5b10928ffba94dfb919dad9019cf81f5.pdf

"On any restoration, it is always best to apply the body filler over the epoxy rather than applying filler over bare metal for best adhesion and corrosion protection."

Just remember to be careful where you and your passenger are in relation to the bars. Aftermarket rollbars, roll cages are mainly designed with the driver wearing a helmet. Folks have died in accidents on the street because their head hit the bar. And no, rollbar padding is not good enough to absorb impact in a collision.

Just something to keep in mind, I ended up using a containment seat in my red truck after the cage went in to protect my head when not wearing a helmet. But that is a seriously impractical option for a regular street car.

Just like everything nowadays, building or buying an engine is expensive! I just did a comparison for a "nice" stroker Windsor for one of my Lightnings. Obviously nice is subjective, but I wanted parts from well known suppliers and around 5-600HP. $14K was cheapest I could find from Ford Strokers.

Very long story short I picked up a brand new Ford Godzilla longblock for $6100.00...

Have you been able to see down in the dist hole to check the condition of the cam gear?

TKOPerformance wrote:

Use a Lube Locker gasket and never clean up RTV or buy another gasket again.  Anything else is insanity.  

https://www.lubelocker.com/products/ford-9-axles-llr-c900

I run these on both the front and rear axles in both my F250s, and have many miles on them with zero issues.  I changed the gear lube after a gear break in in my '06 truck (10.5" rear) and cleaned up the gasket and surfaces with some brake cleaner, threw it back together, and all was well.  There was zero damage to the gasket.  I literally just spent about a minute cleaning off any oil.  Well, well worth it.  Honestly, a tube of RTV is $10-$13 anymore.  Twice that for a gasket that eliminates the mess and lasts forever?  No brainer.  

100% agree on Lube Locker, used this on rear end housings and trans pans. So nice.
 

John, message me your address and I will send it to you. 

Does 3D printing get garage points?  

I started searching around, but I do not see a swap parts list. https://web.archive.org/web/20110213025627/http://www.mustangsteve.com/index.html

Edit: Found it! Scroll down about mid way.

https://web.archive.org/web/20050531005146/http://www.mustangsteve.com/MustangSteveFAQ.html

50vert wrote:

I personally haven't used it, because it's not available in Oz, Spi epoxy primer seems to have a good reputation. I'd use it if I could get it.
https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/products/primers/epoxy-primer/

SPI has excellent products and is used by many high end shops. On top of that the company has excellent customer service and is not owned by one of the giant conglomerations. The owner, who is retired, still answers calls to his cell phone, how cool is that?
 

Twice in a row now Just don't click the little highlighted checkbox.

Trying again...

No joy from when I just uploaded. When I was successful I got a pop up about how imgbb is not affiliated with Boardhost blah blah blah. I clicked accept and was able to upload, but I also checked "don't show this message again" now my images don't appear.

I am going to clear cookies and try again.

Weird, I am unable to post as well. When I use the upload button I get the Imgbb popup, I upload my image, but nothing happens. I even signed up for an account and resized my image to be smaller, but no joy. I tried a full reply as well as "quick reply".

I'll try a different browser.

 

I moved the NLOC over to Xenforo, it's really nice and has a lot of media, gallery, etc options

Haha Unfortunately it's too big for my 3D printer. More than happy to send you all the files, I would definitely have it 3d printed 1st to check all the measurements before having it made out of metal.