A little off topic but I had to modify my foaming River tilt column turn signal/horn button to. Horn had bad contact and after I fixed that the canceling of the turn signals wouldn't work.   Ended up modifying it it with a drill bit which replaced the plastic canceling pin.  It all works great now. 

I guess no one makes any good anymore.  lol

I'm interested in seeing what was being designed for the switch.

I think the regulator failed because a piece of felt was binding up the glass when rolling it up and down.   Which caused the regulator to strip out.  I have used one installed now and it's smooth as butter. I'm sure the aftermarket one would have been to if I hadn’t assumed it was bad from the get go.

Like everything I do I can tend to procrastinate a little.  I kept thinking I would order the horns when I had something else to order.  Well I finally ordered the horns and I'm very impressed with them.  I bought the universal horns NPD sells. 

Oh and guess what happened after I ordered the horns.    My drivers door window regulator broke.  Lol

I sent my engine and drive train specs to ATM and had them build a custom carb for my engine.

I installed a six point pro street style roll bar.  I will never allow anyone to ride in the back because of the bars going over head and the cross bar for the main hoop.  With the pro street style bar I can get in and out of the car with ease because the door bars are bent out of the way and the rear bars follow the roof and back window lines so it doesn’t go through the rear seat.

I thought about doing it to my build.  I didn't because I feel the chrome looks better with my red.  If the body color is dark enough then I think the black out look is better than having a lighter body color.

For something so simple I sure did put a lot of hours into this trying to figure out the simplest way to make this.  My first idea wouldn't would not have worked because I wouldn’t be able to turn it inside out to see it.  Then I came up with an angle on the handle end instead of trying to keep it down to 1" diameter for the first few inches.  If that makes sense.  I had a buddy 3D print the two pieces.  One piece fits underneath and inside the top piece.  This pinched the vinyl and holds it in place.  Not bad for what it is and way better than having nothing. 

I follow you TKO.  I'll see what I can do with a better helmet.

Mine is a pro 5.0 shifter as well.  I had to look up pictures to see what I had.  Came with the T5 when I bought. 

I can only guess the Ring Brothers shifter I bought has the larger mounting holes so one could use the stock rubber insulator.  The shifter came with bronze bushings so it could be a solid mount.  The part of the shifter that bolts to the pro 5 shifter has not given me any issues.  I did add blue loctite with lock nuts to it.  I never thought to add loctite to the pivot bolt mount.  It threads into the handle itself so I should have known better when I installed it.   Most likely I found a shifter handle position and drove to make sure I liked the location and just never thought about it after that.

https://www.ringbrothers.com/universal-9-adjustable-shifter-air-frame-black

Steve69 wrote:

RTM wrote:

I copied this from the Facebook post.

Start your car and get it up to operating temperature of at least 180°
Then close the primary throttle blade completely shut, and set the secondary throttle blade to 1000 RPM.
Go back to the primary throttle blade add another 400 RPM so that the car is now at a 1400 RPM idle.
With the car idling at 1400 RPM give it a real quick blip to 2300rpm, no more than 2500 but no less than 2100. If you miss it, give it a few seconds and try again.
As you do this quick blip, watch the tachometer.
We want to go 1400–2300-then back to 1400 exactly .  
If it hangs higher than 1400, that means it’s lean and you need to come out on the mixture screws
If it drops lower than 1400, It means it’s fat and you need to go in on the mixture screws
Or goal is 1400–2300 –1400 every single time.

Make very small adjustments on your mixture screws as you’re doing this, once we get to go 1400–2300–1400 we will then back to primary screw out again, reset the secondary to 1000 RPM readjust the front one to 1400 again if you go to this whole process one more time with making smaller adjustments on the mixture screws, screwdriver thickness is about right for the second round.

Once we have this set properly. You’ll be able to walk away from the car come back five minutes later reach in the window, hit the key and it will start without touching the gas.

Do Not, Do Not set your idle using a wide band.

There are a lot of things that can effect a wide band reading , not just a carb adjustment.
Make sure that you have the correct spark plugs and ignition timing as they will cause a difference in the reading.

The wide band is a gauge, and needs to be used as a gauge. Period.
It is used to watch trends in Performance, much like an oil pressure gauge or water temperature gauge.

   Can you adjust the Secondary blades on a Vacuum secondary carburetor?   Any youtube video's on this process.  
Thanks for posti

…