jkordzi wrote:

i went back and reviewed MS's and others posts about their walker quietflow mufflers, part No. 21856.  This has a 19" body, offset in/center out, 2-12" pipe.  The walker catalogue also lists part No. 21424, which is the same except for being 2-1/4".  Unfortunately, the old tiny pic photos in the posts are gone.  My installer thinks it's too long and I was wondering if anyone would be so kind as to post a pic or two of their installation of either of these 19" mufflers.  Thanks.

Might be too long.  Try mounting them on the diagonal.  That's what I did with the Caddies in mine.
 

I have 4- leaf reverse eyes in the rear.  ' In front, there are 1" lowering GT springs and Shelby drop.  I love the stance. 

[url=https://ibb.co/ynqzcbqj][/url

RCodePaul wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Also, I wouldn't waste dollar one buying a 289 when you can get a 5.0 for the same price and immediately get an engine with a roller cam and better heads (even the E7TEs are better than the '60s era castings on a 289).  

Fair enough but given the year that was posted it was on point. 

The 5.0 supply around here is plentiful and prices seem quite reasonable. On the SBF head flow, admittedly these are just at 0.500" of lift,  not the entire area under the curve, but E7TEs are close to the bottom of the heap flow wise. Explorer GT40p heads are near the top. And of course the old school 351W, ported with Shivvy valves in it is king of the 60's era Windsor castings. 

RCode:  Thanks for the info.  I have wondered about the flow characteristics of all those heads.  I see a lot of stuff about the E7 heads and not much about the others.

I have D0OE's on my 351 and am happy with them.  I have port matched and removed the Thermactor hump in the exhaust.  My mechanic also installed screw-in mounting studs for longevity.  Cam is 218/224 -  ,.512 lift retro rollers with roller rockers.  Looking at the numbers, my heads would probably do even better in your list.  I have been looking at the AFR165' as a useful upgrade, but I'm not sure of the gains would be worthwhile. (Looks and weight reduction are my justification.)  I don't need more than 5000RPM. My hot rodding days are now limited to punching it on freeway on-ramps.
 

My wife and I refuse to do Facebook. Can't remember why, but it was for a very good reason.  Please don't go there

before you start tearing things apart.  Do a compression check.  Two things (and these actual values are just memories).  The cylinders should have within 10 psi of each other.  Pressure should be around 150psi.

Meet that criteria and you are good to go.  Also.  How many miles on the engine?  Mine have gone over 200,000 miles with little loss of cylinder pressure.  It's miles more than age that counts.

6sally6 wrote:

Reminds me of the OLD after market oil filters that used a roll of TOILET PAPER as the filtering medium !!
Very popular in the early 60's......(NO $haT)
6sally6

I once had a '40 Ford flathead with one.  It worked just fine.

I have used Service Center Radiator here in Auburn, Ca, a number of times on my 4-core copper radiator.  [url=tel:5308852282](530) 885-2282[/url]).  They Have re-cored my radiator, and fixed tank leaks.   I don't know if they do mail order.  Give them a call.

A stock engine should be able to use a stock radiator, particularly up in cool Washington.    My recollection is that the upper and lower tanks on your 2-core are wider than the core unit.  You could re-core it to 3-core with no space problems.  But my recommendation is to fix it.  Easy-out, easy-in.

Great bonding with your son.

Gee the mirrors' color matches that of the ladder.  how do you mount them?

before getting a new radiator...Possible problems to check.  Thermostat can be stuck.  Radiator hose (lower) can be collapsed on the inside making it invisible to the eye.  Radiator clogged.  Look at these first.

When I still had a stock 289, I could sit in LA freeway traffic for an hour in 100* weather with no problems.  That was a long time ago.

wheel stud design is based on the rotor.  (K-H rotors are different from later models)  There are several different designs.  Google your rotor year.  You will get several responses.  Check them out and buy the one that matches.  Of course that means you must remove one to see what you have.

Don't just follow what someone tells you.

terry wrote:

This picture was of a Foxbody I rescued out of a friends barn (shed) I had loaded the car and pulled out on the road and thought maybe I should take a picture of where it came from.  Only after I got home did I look at the picture and see where the reflection of the Foxbody was in the mirror!  I had the picture enlarged to 16 x 24 and it's hanging in my shop.  TimC now owns that car and a copy of this picture

Love it!  How did you get the framing so good?  Luck?
 

I've always gone to Ford or my local parts dealer and asked for a 180* thermo.  Never had a problem.