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Tips and How-To's » Floor mounted e brake lever » 9/13/2019 8:34 AM

BillyC
Replies: 1

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BillyC wrote:

Pic one is the parts I salvaged from the donor '97 Escort. Left to right, the cable that attaches to the lever, the floor plate the lever bolts to (this plate was tack welded to the underside of the floor board) and the lever. The lever bolts to the plate with to metric bolts so save the bolts.
Pic two is the lever in the car with the cable attached (10 mm nut) the yellow wire is for the grounding switch for a brake on flashing led light on the dash.
Pic three is the mounting plate. Note the recessed area with the large hole. The demensions of this recess is the size of the hole I cut in the floor. I bolted the plate to the floor with 5/16" bolts and bolted the lever to it. I made a template of the plate to locate the large hole and the bolt holes.
Pic four is the front cable mounts on the underside of the drive shaft hump. They are staggered because my cables were different lengths. The ends of the cables must be even where they attach to the lever cable. I used 1 1/4" angle to make the brackets.
Pic five is the Cobra cables from MS with the fittings I made to attach them to the 2017 GT calipers.
Pic six is the lever cable.
Pic seven is of the cables attached to the lever cable using 5/16" bolts.
This install was fairly easy. I did a lot of measuring and test fitting before I started cutting and drilling so as to get the lever centered in the car. When you see the parts it's pretty self explanatory how it goes together.

 

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FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » shelby drop » 9/07/2019 8:15 AM

BillyC
Replies: 6

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I did the drop on my 66 with 620 springs. I'm running 17" narrowed wheels 235/45/17 tires. Ride height is just right.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Those of you on the right hand coast » 9/06/2019 11:51 AM

BillyC
Replies: 12

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It's almost 2pm and things are finally starting to calm down. If you were watching the color coded maps on tv they showed with color an area that would be most effected by Dorian. A very tiny piece of that color barely touched the far southeast corner of Virginia. That's where my house is. S..t got real there for a while but we've been thru worse. We're expecting some significant tidal flooding this afternoon at high tide. Mustang is high and dry. I hope everyone else is ok.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Timing the old 289 » 9/06/2019 11:45 AM

BillyC
Replies: 5

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I have a really expensive timing light that I don't use. It was a gift from a friend that dosent like the way I set timing. I use a vacuum gauge and set my timing for max vacuum at idle. Been doing this for years, a lot of years. Mines a 289 with Edelbrock Performer carb and manifold and mild cam. I tried the timing light, mostly because it's chrome plated and makes me look like I know what I'm doing but I couldn't make it run as good as it does using the vac gauge. By the way, I to have hearing aids thanks to the US Navy. Still can't hear the wife.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Those of you on the right hand coast » 9/01/2019 6:52 PM

BillyC
Replies: 12

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Looking at Thursday for us. Doesn’t look as bad for us as the Carolinas.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Gauges set up » 8/31/2019 9:09 AM

BillyC
Replies: 51

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I put Autometer white faced gauges into my 66 gauge bezel. I used a Dremel tool to very carefully enlarge the holes. An after market bezel is pretty inexpensive. See pics in "pictures and history". Don't bother with an Amp gauge. Use a volt gauge instead.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Still cant cool at Idle » 8/24/2019 3:21 PM

BillyC
Replies: 40

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Cab4word67 wrote:

TKO, 
this thing has a good working 180 stat, the problem that I investageged tonight is at idle it will slowly rise past 215 if I let it with AC on in Oregon 80+ temps. It seems that the fan just wont pull the air . The air was blasting out right above the rad like the fan was spinig hot air but not pulling it.  It will hold a shop rag to the grill. Runs 185-190 max, some times even a little lower. without the AC it runs 170-185 max. Tonight I added a strip of ABS to cover the whole blade on the shroud and that seems to make the air come out towards the motor now instead of pouring out right at the rad.  I hate to say but I think this thing will only cool with the electric fan as I once had. When I added the new rad I lost the space I needed for my black magic fan, but then that fan wouldnt let air pass on the hwy. So I went to this clutch fan set up with a steel shroud. the hayden clutch locks at 80-90 % but just dosent seem to hold the temp down while at idle. defently a slower climb now then with the standard clutch. before I changed the clutch to the severe duty one I could watch the temp rise quickly.
I will wait for your reply and maybe just maybe there is a suloution. 

 
I don't have a/c but my 289 idles and runs at 180. I don't have a shroud but I made a cover to cover the gap between the grille and and the radiator support. That seems to help a lot at idle. I also have a large six blade ridged steel fan.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » T5 conversion - Hydraulic or Cable Clutch activation? » 8/19/2019 5:35 PM

BillyC
Replies: 12

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Nos681 wrote:

I’m totally satisfied with the cable clutch in my ‘65.
I am using the engine/transmission combo from my ‘92.
MS cable clutch operates smoother and easier than my stock quadrant setup.
I also have the roller bearings.
Research as Josh suggested.
I like the simplicity of the cable.

 
What he said.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » MS...first casualty of year for me » 8/11/2019 8:14 AM

BillyC
Replies: 16

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I made a heat shield for mine similar to the ones on my Harley Sportster. I cut a section of exhaust pipe length wise and welded tabs to the inside of it so it attaches to the header pipe with hose clamps. It creates an air gap between the pipe and the cable.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Installed 2018 Mustang GT 13" rear disc brakes on my 66 » 7/27/2019 9:03 PM

BillyC
Replies: 17

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1fststang wrote:

what did you use for parking brake cables ? I know the newer rear calipers have a round end/loop that hooks over the caliper bracket

 
I used the MS Cobra cables and fabricated a fitting on the end to attach it to the 2017 caliper. I used a '97 Escort EBrake handle.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Installed 2018 Mustang GT 13" rear disc brakes on my 66 » 7/25/2019 6:54 PM

BillyC
Replies: 17

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I did the same thing last year. In fact I think I bought the first set of brackets from Mustang Steve. They were supper say to install. I bought a new set of rotors and calipers from Shelby American for $80.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Radiator chose questions » 7/19/2019 8:25 AM

BillyC
Replies: 48

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351MooseStang wrote:

In my experience the Flex-a-lite fans are a poor choice for an engine fan. The problem is that they flatten out at speed and actually restrict the air from passing through the shroud. I figured this out real quick when I had a similar problem after installing one of them. I temporarily replaced it with a stock fan (no clutch) and the problem went away. Others I have helped in the past have had similar experiences with cooling at speed with a Flex-a-lite and a good cooling system.

A fan/clutch combo is a far better choice. Still, a two row aluminum or three row OEM radiator would be a good upgrade for your car.

 
I have never thought about the "flattening fan" theory but i think my set up is the proof. I have read many posts here about 289s over heating and among the recommendations is always a shroud. My setup has no shroud and never has but I do have a six blade ridged steel fan. I'm currently running an aluminum radiator but had no over heating problems with the stock one. I live in southeastern Virginia and this week temps have been in the high 90s. I have a 190 stat and even in traffic it never goes over 205. At highway speeds it drops back to 190. Also the 289 is mildly modified and has a little over 100k miles on it.

Show Your Mustang Pictures and History » 66 Coupe 6cyl/auto to 302 V8/Tremec 5 Speed et al » 7/17/2019 9:45 AM

BillyC
Replies: 1

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Great video. You're making good progress. Keep us posted.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Turn signal switch replacements » 7/09/2019 8:55 AM

BillyC
Replies: 18

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MS wrote:

Definitely, you want NOS Ford.  You will pay $150 to $200 for one, but you won't be replacing it in six months, or in ten minutes, as many have experienced.  The quality of the spring steel parts is the difference.  Plastic and wiring is about the same, but the spring steel in the Scott Drake variants and other reproductions is substandard.
I saw ALL GIRLS GARAGE this weekend and they replaced only the broken cancelling part of the switch on a 66 Mustang.  You can buy the part to do that at OReilly's.  However, they never did show it actually working, and I have attempted that repair a couple of times in the past with zero success, so I do not recommend it.  It is an exercise in futility, albeit a much less expensive exercise in futility than installing a Scott Drake switch.

Seems like the switch I bought last year came from Mac's Auto Parts on ebay.  Happy hunting!

If you do decide to go with an aftermarket switch, please do report on your results and post a follow-up a year later.

 
I ordered the cam part from CJ Pony because it was only $7.50+shipping and I figure if I mess it up it isn't any good the way it is soooo...nothing ventured nothing gained. I figure if that doesn't work I'll engineer some kind of push button deal or just be like everyone else around where I live and not use my turn signals.lol

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Turn signal switch replacements » 7/08/2019 7:58 AM

BillyC
Replies: 18

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lowercasesteve wrote:

Is there a Mustang parts supply place around Norfolk?  I always get my stuff from one close to me, so I can talk face to face and more easily return things.  I get most of mine at Mustangs Plus and American Mustang, both close to home.  I have also used the Paddock successfully.

 
Nope, nothin around here but seafood and barbecue. Of course if you own a boat yer good to go. Virginia Classic is about 5 hours away. The problem I have is they won't cancel so I ordered a cam from CJ Pony.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Turn signal switch replacements » 7/07/2019 4:50 PM

BillyC
Replies: 18

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Where’s the best place to get a new turn signal switch for my 66?

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » So, how is your BASH THRASH going? » 6/05/2019 6:01 PM

BillyC
Replies: 85

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Rudi wrote:

Steve, what was the OAT?   Auto A/C's will only cool to a certain temp below ambient.
 I agree 40 sucks unless it's 110 outside.
 Also if you are getting 32.9 I'm thinking the system will freeze solid.

 
It's not likely it will freeze solid, at least not internally because there isn't anything in there to freeze. Unless you have moisture in it but then it wouldn't be making 32*. It could freeze the condensate to the evap core. Still that's one helluva a/c system.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Burned out taillight » 5/07/2019 5:42 PM

BillyC
Replies: 15

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I’ll bet $500 would buy a pistol in NorCal allowed or not.🤪

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Smell,Stink,Fumes,Eye Burning,Headache Casuing, IN your skin/clothes » 5/02/2019 8:45 AM

BillyC
Replies: 60

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TKOPerformance wrote:

You need to understand that trying to fix a tuning issue on a car via the internet it like trying to give someone a haircut over the phone.  We aren't there.  There are likely things that would be obvious in an environment where we could touch, smell, see, and hear the engine run.  We are limited to what we are being told.

Based on that I can tell you that fuel pressure of 7psi is absolute max for a Holley, and it would likely work better at more like 5.

It sounds like the shop either didn't get the car tuned right, or possibly TDC on your balancer is not really TDC (several reasons for this, fairly common problem with small Fords).  What you describe after they "tuned" it is almost certainly a timing issue, not a fueling issue.  
 

 
I agree with TKO on the timing thing. I've got a 289 with a 650 carb and Performer cam and manifold. I AM NOT A TUNING EXPERT. I tune mine the way I was taught better than 50 years ago. I connect a vacuume gage to the carb and dial the timing in to max vacuume. I had the "stink" like you discribed when I tuned it with a timing light. When I tuned it by vacuume in took care of the problem. That said I also agree that the carb is to big for a SBF and if properly tuned you may have gotten the same or better performance from a smaller carb.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Granada disk brake to early mustangs conversion » 4/27/2019 9:43 AM

BillyC
Replies: 6

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I have 08 discs on the front of my 66 using the MustangSteve brackets. I went with that set up mostly because of availability of parts. I ran it with rear drums for a few years and it worked flawless. I recently converted the rear to '17 discs. All Ford parts readily available at any parts store anywhere.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Just saw a little video that's a real "eye-opener"......... » 4/17/2019 7:44 PM

BillyC
Replies: 7

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Good Look'n wrote:

Long time ago, in a land far away....had a younger guy looking & talking about my MuttiMobile (the Valiant SW), "Wow you must feel safe w/ all that strong metal around you"

I then politely showed him the pretty metal gadgets inside & how they would rip out my skin, eyeballs, etc in a 5-10mph crash, how the pretty steering wheel would go through my insides, blah, blah. Every time I drive my oldies I know I'm risking mayhem to my lovely features.

 
I ride a Harley. Anything with four wheels is a sanctuary to me.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Just saw a little video that's a real "eye-opener"......... » 4/16/2019 6:35 PM

BillyC
Replies: 7

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Terrible waste of a '59 Chevy. I had an Impala the same color as that one.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » A/C condensation mess » 4/06/2019 9:59 AM

BillyC
Replies: 11

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red351 wrote:

I be looking for a crack in the pan or drain hose restrictor is missing or blocked.  There shouldn't be that much humidity inside the car with the a/c running and drying the air. Missing restrictor would allow too much outside air updraft making the pan overflow

 
Also look for openings in the firewall/body where outside air could be entering the interior in close procimity to the evap. Hot humid air entering directly on the box. As Sal said some peel and stick insulation should do the trick.

Board footera


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