I'm so sorry to hear this.  Steve will definitely be missed.

Around here many car shows are on grass, which means many approaches are worn a bit thin so the turn downs kick up the dust....Perfect!!

I'm really glad you made this Bash, Billy.  Just sorry I didn't get there and have a chance to yap with you again.  You may not recall but you checked out the interior and cruise control in the Heap at our first Bash in Waxahachie, 2010. 
Sorry you had troubles but that's called a "shake down" cruise and it sounds like you found the weak spots.  Nothing terribly major from what it sounds like. 
Hope we can both make it next year.

Bob, if I am getting this correctly, the big part will hold the smaller part down once the boot material is wrapped around the smaller part.  That would be a very clean setup.  Couple of suggestions if that's what you are planning:  Add a couple of screws in the center of the long sides to prevent bending.  Unless your boot is made of very flimsy material there will be significant load involved in holding it together...thinking expanded vinyl or thin leather and the wrinkles that may be unavoidable.  Next, be sure to dimension the parts so the recess is loose enough and deep enough to accommodate thickness of the fabric and allow the outer part to completely cover (hide) the ring with the fabric wrapped around it. 
I believe 3D printed would probably be stiff enough to work with a lighter vinyl material, though, you may want to add two screws to each side to make sure it pulls down evenly.  At 1/4" thick, machined from aluminum would work well but I would still add a screw to each side. 

I was there.  That problem with Sal's horn circuit is what led me to figure out the simple horn relay circuit for these cars.

rpm wrote:

Yep, I agree with that Paul. While the AFRs do wake up your motor, their quality control is lacking. I'm not the only member of this forum whose AFR rocker studs look like a porcupine.

Hmmm, I've heard that pork-ee-pine comment somewhere before.  And, don't get me started on their valve stem height. 
For a fun experience, you should ask their rep at SEMA about these problems....I did...not impressed.

Jeff;  As for the H-pipe, I would say just get the trans in and then custom fit the head pipes and add the crossover.  I think I had the local pipe shop do mine but it's been twenty years ago for the AOD.  For the 4R70W I just removed the crossover and went without.  Not sure I'm happy with the "no crossover" setup and will likely add one.  Butt (TS&T) it is handy to be able to drop  the head pipes as needed without having to fight a one-piece "H" pipe.
I'll find and or shoot some pix soon as I can and email those to you Jeff.  If you have any fabbing skills, you shouldn't have a problem with the shifter.  I do know you will want the selector lever on the trans to be pointing up.  Mine came that way as it was from a Crown Vic.

I made my own, Jeff, but that may not be something you want to do.  So, pick one from a reputable outfit and go with it .  All it has to do is move the trans mount to the rear couple of inches so it's not a major piece of engineering.  I would suggest that you make sure whatever you get has provisions for the E-brake.

Also, you will need to build a new H-pipe or head pipes to get around the AOD...it's quite a bit wider than the C4.  I also run the HIPO manifolds and think that's a great way to go for a "street" car. 
Don't know what you plan to do for a shifter but you can use the stock C4 unit with a couple of simple (more or less) mods.  I will be happy to shoot a pick of mine which I modified for the AOD and then modified some more for the 4R70W.  Personally, I like the stock look in the interior so I like keeping the stock shifter.  Let me know if you want some pix.

BB1

Really sorry to hear that, Walt.  Hope you, or anyone else, wasn't hurt.

 

Here's hoping you all have a great celebration of the most important day our in our nation's history. 

Bullet Bob

Having been involved in putting a '96ish Exploder 5.0/gt40P heads and 89-93 EEC-IV EFI in a 64 Falcon Vert, I can sat that the frame rails are narrower on the Falcon, but the engine bay seems to be a bit longer (ft to rr).  We were going to use HIPO manifolds but there was just no way to make them work.  Steering box was in the way also, as I recall.  Also, being a convertible, working out dual exhaust that wasn't hanging too low was more than the owner wanted to deal with.  Ended up using the stock 260 exh manifolds, cross-over, single exhaust.  It runs fine and gets very good mileage, so the single exh didn't seem to bother the engine setup. 
If you have a 302 in there now, the 5.0 should be a drop-in.  And the present exh system, I believe, will mount to the gt40p heads with minimum foolishness.  Like I said, we got em mounted with the stock 260 manifolds .

MAW wrote:

Sorry, I didn't think about rims not fitting, that never entered my mind.  I was just wondering why everyone would sit around for hours when someone could just loan him a spare to move on.  But, a spare is a must have item on a long cruise.

The spare in the Heap is number 5 of the same wheels that are on the ground.  I have the same problem with stock wheels not clearing the brakes so that seemed like a solid solution.  Yes, it takes up a lot of trunk space but, we are only two when we travel in that car.  The kids are all growed up.  No pet either so Jean has what's left of the trunk plus most of the back seat for "essentials".  I can usually find room to stuff in a small duffel for my needs.
 

The lugs on the Cargar Vintage wheels on the Heap go a coupla tight spots and I just use a 3/8 drive socket adapted to my 1/2 drive breaker bar.  Also got one in the trunk tool kit.