I don't profess to be an expert on fuel pressure regulators and my experience with them is limited to pressure regulators in conjunction with carburetors. My recollection is that when the fuel pump stops pumping, the pressure regulator bypass valve will close, thereby preventing fuel from returning to the fuel tank.  That said, if there is residual pressure in the line, the regulator will not act as a relief valve unless the pressure exceeds the set bypass pressure on the regulator. I don't think a pressure regulator will solve your issue. Many mechanical pumps have a check valve (anti-siphon) built in. You can purchase electric pumps with and without a check valve. 

I have not disassembled a pressure regulator in over 25 years, so the above could be entirely wrong. Hopefully, someone with a better understanding of pressure regulator operation will chime in.

After you have confirmed the integrity of your cooling system and engine tune per above, you might consider finding an independent Volvo repair shop. Many Volvos use dual electric fans (one large diameter, one small diameter) mounted in a shroud. Mounted to the shroud in a high heat zone is a fan controller. If the fan controller goes bad (a frequent occurrence) the whole unit has to be replaced. Some shops throw away the fan units and might be willing to give you a fan unit. Wire the positive and negative terminals to a fan controller, thermostatic switch or simple on/off switch (relayed) and you have high quality fans, Spal if I recall correctly, for about $50 plus the cost of a controller. Good luck.

Excellent. Unfortunately, I have to report that my parking lot is overflowing. 

GPatrick wrote:

Some powermaster alternators do not provide good output at idle.   Notice I said some as I am sure some will take exception to this. This depends on the engine speed and pulley ratios, of course, and not all of them appear to have this problem.  I do a lot of support on the Holley EFI forums and I have seen enough low output at idle issues and noisy power to recommend staying away from the 1-wire alternatives.  Just my experience.  The Ford 3G alternator in the 90 or 130 amp ranges provides consistent clean power down to idle and works well with EFI as well as high current loads like fans or pumps.  A real benefit of the 3G over the one-wire alternatives is that they are available nationwide at parts stores where an aftermarket unit may be days away.  The last two installs I did use a Delco branded 3G from Summit and in my truck I am still running a pick and pull take-off after 10 years.

This is an interesting distinction. I do not have fuel injection and can't really hear my radio, so I wasn't concerned with clean power, nor can I comment on that application. I have used Powermaster in various high load applications for over 20 years and am satisfied with the quality and support. I use an AGM battery which likes a higher charging voltage and I have dual electric fans which pull a lot of amperage, so I called Powermaster and the tech advised that the alternator would put out 130 amps at idle and about 15. something volts. I can't find the test tag that came with the alternator, so I don't have a clear recollection of the output voltage. I am not pushing Powermaster, it just fits my needs at this time.

=13pxhttps://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADO-335-1113

 

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I use and have good results with Powermaster alternators. 

You might want to consider calling David Edwards, Clutches Unlimited, 714-393-6155. Many years ago, Dave workied for Bill Hays, who started Hays clutches, then Centerforce at David's location. David has a surface grinder, etc. and just refinished my flywheel. Dave has also built specialty friction disks for me. Very knowledgeable and good service.

At least one cylinder would require sleeving. It has a forged crank and if the rods are straight, there are a lot of good parts. i’m going to put it up for sale and I’m guessing that someone will rebuild it.

The valve stem sheared.

I might have 2 1/2 inches for air cleaner clearance with the super victor. Ports match heads fairly well and I should clean up the internal casting, but I will use it as is

From Ford: Camshaft Hydraulic Roller Cam Timing Position "0" (multi index crank sprocket)
Camshaft Lobe Separation 112
Camshaft Duration 232°/240° @ .050" lift (int./ex.)
Valve Lift .580/.602” (int./ex.);
Compression: 10.2:1.
I am installing a Super Victor intake manifold and if there are any issues, I can install the Victor Jr, or a performer manifold. Based on my conversations with the Ford tech, I think (hope} the combination I am installing will drive very well. 

 

TKO, the 363 will be carbureted so no issues related to fuel injection. The 347 with the 14 pound flywheel worked really well and the 363 produces approximately an 11% gain in both torque and horsepower. At 2500 rpm the 347 made rear wheel numbers of 140 hp and 280 ft lbs. The 363 will do better than that, so I may go with a flywheel lighter than 14 lbs.
 
BobE, in lighter cars I have always used lightweight flywheels. In a 2400 lb car with a built FE 427 and very large tires, the combination worked perfectly. Likewise, the 3200 lb Mustang, 347, with a 14 pound flywheel was a joy to drive. On a heavier car or truck I would definitely be looking at a heavier flywheel, but on this application, I am going to consider a flywheel 13 pounds or below. 
 
Important to note that in conjunction with the 14 pound flywheel, the 347 also had a light weight aluminum clutch pressure plate further reducing inertia. On my cars and motorcycles, within reason, I am always trying to reduce reciprocating and rotating weight. I view it as free horsepower.

I should also note that I cannot use the 347 flywheel as it is externally balanced whereas the 363 is internally balanced. 
 
Thanks for your input and hopefully I can attend a future bash and you can drive the car and comment.

Per my previous post, the 347 suffered catastrophic failure and a 363 is going into the 66 with a manual transmission. The engine on order is Ford Performance m-6007-Z2363FT. Should note, first gear ratio 2.95, ring and pinion 3.55, 13 pound flywheel, and lightweight pressure plate.
Copied from JEGS:

• 507 HP on Pump Gas - In A 302 Sized Package
• Engine Type 302 Based Small Block Ford; 363 cu. in. Displacement
• 4.125 in. Bore x 3.400 in. Stroke
• SCAT Forged Steel Crankshaft
• SCAT Forged Steel H-Beam Connecting Rods and ARP Bolts
• Forged Mahle Pistons w/Floating Wrist Pins
• Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
• Camshaft Lift 0.580/0.602 in. Intake/Exhaust
• Ford Performance Aluminum Z2 Cylinder Heads M-6049-Z2
• 2.05/1.60 in. Intake/Exhaust Valve Size
• PAC? 1219X Ovate Beehive Valve Springs
• Roller Rocker Arms w/1.65:1 Ratio

Google will bring up further specifications on the engine. I spent some time talking with Ford Performance ("FP") technical support and FP recommends a 750 cfm carburetor. FP used a Holley 750 for testing, long tube headers and a super victor intake manifold. I ran a modified autolite 4100, shorty headers and a victor junior on the 347. 

I am keeping the shorty headers and might port the victor junior. Even ported, the victor junior will not match the numbers the super victor flows. The FP tech estimated a 10-15 hp loss using the victor junior. The super victor will probably cause hood clearance issues; however, I might be able to mill the carburetor pad on the super victor. Have done this on FE 427 manifolds, but I don't know how much, if any, can be milled from the super victor.

Most of my driving is at or near sea level and both victor manifolds are open plenum. The 347 created sufficient vacuum to activate the autolite 4100 secondaries using the victor junior.
All of that said, looking for practical experience with an engine with similar specifications flowing similar numbers: mechanical secondaries vs vacuum seco

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After 22 years of use, the 347 in my 66 failed while on tour. Driving from Huntington Beach to Carmel, approximately, 125 miles into the trip, cruising approximately 65 in overdrive, a loud cracking noise came on and I immediately pulled onto the shoulder. I called a tow truck and while waiting for 5 hours, removed the driver's side valve cover and all looked normal. Had I pulled the passenger side valve cover, I would have seen part of the problem, but decided to wait as I knew the engine would not be running.

Next day, things started to become clearer upon dissasembly. I tried to post photos, but without success, so I will just explain that a valve either broke, struck the piston or a combination of both.