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I have fitted power unit with dual master cylinder to original brake pedal.
Cannot get decent brake pedal pressure, pedal goes to the floor !
On investigation when I removed the master cylinder,I measured the travel of pressure rod and noted it only travelled 7/8".
Is this my problem or is it something else.
I would appreciate any advice that other owners could give as getting advice over here in the UK is a bit thin on the ground (English expression}
Regards Keith Fowler.
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Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Maybe give a list of components you used in the conversion and the brake guys on here can better help you.
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If you some searches and review the MS power brake kit on mustangsteve.com you will find information about marginal brake performance on 66 cars with a standard pedal. Without relocating the actuation pin on the pedal and using the appropriate booster there is a chance that you will not have enough travel to actuate the brakes. You may be able to get the system to work with a master that has a larger bore requiring less travel. Please provide details on the exact booster and master that you are using and perform some searches of the current site as well as the old site.
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What booster are you using?
Note that some cheapo aftermarket boosters are set up for a master cylinder with a rod depth of 1/2". When a normal Mustang master cylinder having 1" rod depth requirement is bolted to it, you automatically have a 1/2" mismatch and the pedal will go to the floor. Figure a 6:1 ratio at the pedal pad, so 1/2" at the booster can be 3" of pedal stroke lost. Be sure the booster outout shaft almost touches the piston in the master cylider.
I have customers all the time that have purchased those 7" diameter booster assemblies and they have alot of issues with them. They wind up removing them and installing an engineered system instead of something "that will bolt on" and things start working right again.
You may have a problem totally unrelated to that, though, so please post some pics of your booster, master cylinder, plumbing routing and proportioning valve. It will make it alot easier to help diagnose any problems.
Depending on what rear discs you have on the car, thry could be the problem if they have not been adjusted so the pads are up against the rotors. Pics of the calipers showing bleeders would also help.
Thank you gentlemen for your replys.
I have move the pin position on the pedal and realined the striker rod and now have a good pedal.
thank you all.
Regards from across the pond. Keith Fowler.
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