JVince wrote:

Greetings all!  I hope everyone had a safe and happy holiday and new year!  I took a break from all things car related for the holiday season but the warmer weather here in Houston has kicked me back into gear.  I think I got to drive the '65 for maybe five weeks before I'm back into tear down mode . 

Back in December I did stumble across a machine shop that had a stroker block w/girdle and studs all ready for rotatiting assembly.  The builder is local and has a good rep so I went ahead and started up on the project.  He ordered me a forged rotating assembly to match my twisted wedge heads and I've been pulling apart the top end of my current motor to clean up the parts that will be reused.  Heads, Vic. Jr. intake, distributor are making the cut but I needed a new oil pan, carb and a few other fixings.  Side note:  I now know the difference between annular and downleg boosters.  Ya learn something every day!

The rotating assembly should be balanced this week and hopefully we'll get it completely assembled by the end of next week.  The builder offered to engine dyno test/tune it with me so I'm seriously considering it.  I've never done an engine dyno but it seems like a much more efficient way to tune.

I'll get some pictures the next time I'm at the shop, and a whole slew more when we drop the motor in.  Looking forward to making some nice power and finally removing the cardboard boxes from my garage floor to catch the oil drips from my old motor. 

DETAILS  DETAILS!!
Comp ratio....tell me about the camshaft.... rod length...5-speed?...rear gear.....all the good stuff!!
6s6

I vote for the dyno tune if at all possible.  There is nothing like tuning in controlled conditions rather than 20 trial runs and guessing as to what is better or worse by driving it.

Then you should be able to just stick it in the car and go enjoy it.  Of course, some people LIKE doing the tuning themselves and that should be considered a fun part of this hobby.  My problem is I have had about all the fun I can stand !

Well, per normal things took a slight detour.  The valve springs on my TrickFlow heads were a little too light for the cam in the new motor.  So I had to spend the money I was saving for the engine dyno on new springs and hardware.  Also the heads had some remarkably bad corrosion in the water ports.  My only thought is that I mixed the antifreze with tap water at my old house and we had REALLY hard water there.  Those heads probably only have 10-15k miles on them.  So we had them welded up and re-ported.

Aside from that things are going well.  I don't have the bore/stroke specs in front of me but I think the block is .30 over with a 3.4 stroke?  Block is studded and girdled.  I'll post a pic of the cams specs.  We've used it in another street car so it's streetable even though it looks a little extreme.  All the internals are forged.  Mahle pistons setup for the twisted wedge heads, Scat rods, Eagle crank.  Canton oil pan.  Vic Jr. Intake.  And I picked up a 750 4150 Holley DP with annular boosters.  I can't remember if I posted about that but I had no idea what an annular booster was, so I did a bit of reading.  Pretty interesting stuff.

It should be all buttoned up by the end of the weekend.  I'm trying to change out my steering box while I have the other motor out but if all goes well we'll be running by the end of next week!  I have a bet with my mechanic buddy on the RWHP of this setup.  I was hoping for 400-450 at the flywheel but since we're not going to engine dyno we agreed on rear wheel.  He swears it will make over 400.  I'm not so sure.  We bet a case of beer

Pics:

DBROWN wrote:

My Guess, it will make 450+ flywheel HP, But may be a tad under 400 rwh.  

 

That's exactly what I was thinking.  But my mechanic friend predicts well over 500 at the flywheel, 400+ at the wheels.  He's got about 35 years experience on me and is a Mustang guy so I'm hoping I lose this bet.  I guess either way I really win though!

Don't forget to get that cam degree'd!  Just stick'en it in"dot-to-dot" is worng in so many ways.  While degreing it you may want to advance it 4/6 degrees. Move that power range down (about 1000rpm) .Make the power in the low to mid-range instead of 6000+rpm.  Just my thoughts.
I'm betting closer to 500hp than 450hp. 347 seems to be the "magic size" for SBF's.
Like 383' are to GM's.
Bet that 108* LSA will sound mighty sweet too!
6sal6

6sally6 wrote:

Don't forget to get that cam degree'd!  Just stick'en it in"dot-to-dot" is worng in so many ways.  While degreing it you may want to advance it 4/6 degrees. Move that power range down (about 1000rpm) .Make the power in the low to mid-range instead of 6000+rpm.  Just my thoughts.
I'm betting closer to 500hp than 450hp. 347 seems to be the "magic size" for SBF's.
Like 383' are to GM's.
Bet that 108* LSA will sound mighty sweet too!
6sal6

I'm almost certain it was degreed for a little more driveability.  At least that was the plan.  I'm picking it up tomorrow so I should have the full build sheet.  This is the first time I've not done the installs/bolt ons myself so I'm a little uninformed!

Should make a strong ride there.  Have fun!

Just an observation... 

The 2 bolts on each side that exist to bolt the monte carlo bar on will put dents in the bottom of your hood.  You might want to take them out and file the holes square, then insert smooth carriage bolts from the top. Then you can tighten the nut below without having to put a wrench on the top.

I have seen way too many 65/66 hoods with the two dents on each side from those bolt heads.

MustangSteve wrote:

Just an observation... 

The 2 bolts on each side that exist to bolt the monte carlo bar on will put dents in the bottom of your hood.  You might want to take them out and file the holes square, then insert smooth carriage bolts from the top. Then you can tighten the nut below without having to put a wrench on the top.

I have seen way too many 65/66 hoods with the two dents on each side from those bolt heads.

I think they clear OK but I'll double check when I get back.  If they're hitting then the damage is already done .  I know it doesn't show on the top side of the hood so it that's the extend of the ding I'm fine with it.  Hell I already have a nice little divot from the air clear nut.  ZERO clearance there.  I can't even use a wing nut. 

Thanks for the heads up, Steve!