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Give me a little credit for already covering all the easy stuff. Not my first rodeo.
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Would think rear "twisted" not square. Are thet metal or f/glass springs?
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Old trick wet the tires and drive it across a lvevel parking lot, see if the tracks follow one another.If not you have an alignment problem front to back. Just had a thought if your running a limited slip differential the clutches could be slipping allowing one side more torque.
sorry spelled clutces wrong
Last edited by bulletbirdman (8/21/2014 4:40 AM)
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They are new steel springs. They performed great when first installed.
This problem is NOT when spinning the tires. This occurs even when driving along in fifth gear at 40 MPH, then accelerating pretty good up to 50 MPH.
I am going to see if I can readjust the rack bias today. Have to work that in with a trip to the lake to check out the new boat.
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Yeah thats it pull that boat with it a few miles and that should tame that wild pony. LOL
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I have about the same difference on my '69 and I don't have a problem. I think if everyone started measuring these old cars they would find a lot of them are off. The only other thing I can think of would be as the front end lifts it changes the static specs what is the camber and caster reading on the right front? Could the amount of lift be affected by the removal of the blocks?
You mentioned TCP rack what is the turning radius like with that rack is it greater than stock?
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Here is my theory:
I think your issue doesn't have anything to do with your alignment - front or rear. I think it is a result of the previous lowering blocks levering effect on the leaf springs. When you accelerate, the rear axle tries to twist the spring. The lowering blocks increased this effect because they added a lever. In your case, the additional twist was what your suspension needed to keep the car straight. I think the solution lies in adding something like caltracs so you can preload one side.
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Got the front end aligned. Measure 3/8" long WB on driver side than passenger side. Problem is 99% gone and is now the least of my worries. The MSD Gremlin still keeps making the car quit running. It did it right after I started it in the driveway today so I know it is not a fuel capacity issue.
Going to talk with MSD on Monday. If no confidence in a fix, the Holley goes back on.
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MustangSteve wrote:
Got the front end aligned. Measure 3/8" long WB on driver side than passenger side. Problem is 99% gone and is now the least of my worries. The MSD Gremlin still keeps making the car quit running. It did it right after I started it in the driveway today so I know it is not a fuel capacity issue.
Going to talk with MSD on Monday. If no confidence in a fix, the Holley goes back on.
T minus 4.5 weeks
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MustangSteve wrote:
Got the front end aligned. Measure 3/8" long WB on driver side than passenger side.
As a consequence of what? Castor differences or leaf springs?
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Don wrote:
MustangSteve wrote:
Got the front end aligned. Measure 3/8" long WB on driver side than passenger side. Problem is 99% gone and is now the least of my worries. The MSD Gremlin still keeps making the car quit running. It did it right after I started it in the driveway today so I know it is not a fuel capacity issue.
Going to talk with MSD on Monday. If no confidence in a fix, the Holley goes back on.T minus 4.5 weeks
Not sure what you mean by "measure 3/8" long WB," but how does that happen by just removing the lowering blocks???
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I'm sure the driver side front wheel has been forward too far ever since the guy at NTB lined it up. Passenger side has several shims with final adjustment on the strut rod. Driver side has fewer shims needed to get more caster, so he took it up with the strut rod apparently.
Go measure YOUR CAR. I bet you will be shocked.
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