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Thanks for the replies on engine install/alignment. Had to enlarge several holes to get all the bolts in. I have tried like heck to get the engine over towards the driver side as much as possible but I still can not obtain header clearance on the passenger side. I am trying to install tri-y's. I can get the header in place by lifting the engine slightly but when I tighten all the engine mount bolts back down, the header touches the shock tower. I have enlongated the motor mount holes as much as I can and you can tell the motor is shoved to the drivers side as much as I can. I can raise the motor a little but I will quickly run into hood clearance issues due to the edelbrock intake being taller, I have "clearanced" the header with a hammer already. Any suggestions at all besides shooting it?
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Can you provide more info about your combination and post some pictures?
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What about a small notch cut into the shock tower?
If your worried(i wouldn't be) you could weld reinforcement into tower after you notch it.
Pull engine back out and use a BFH on the tower(mark the area before you pull engine.)
I wouldn't be afraid to do either one.
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On one set of headers I had to put the header in the mill and angle cut the flange slightly. It takes very little to get a fair amount of clearence. You have to be carefull not to go too far and run into the starter.
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Great idea, DC. Might could accomplish that if you know how to carefully handle a grinder with a flapper wheel on it.
Hopefully you do not consider cutting the shock tower a viable alternative. It can be done, but you will need to pull the engine to do a good job. And a new piece needs to be welded back in. If you decide to go that route, I have a neat little marking tool that lets you mark both humps to be trimmed so they are coplanar. Works good!
Also another suggestion... This has worked well for me in the past. Take a 1" wood chisel and fold a piece of 20 gauge sheetmetal around the end of the chisel. Go ahead and bolt the headers up tight and then drive the chisel, inside the sheetmetal fold, into the "gap" between the header and shock tower. The chisel will gradually depress the header tube and will move it 1/8" for just enough clearance. The sheetmetal keeps from honking up the shock tower or the header tube. Many times you can massage the tube in this way and not be able to tell it has been massaged at all by looking at it. Any scratches are made in the folded sheetmetal and not on the headers or shock tower. They are just "pushed" to deform the header tube a bit.
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Thanks so much guys for the ideas. Having it milled was a genius idea but I am already close to the bellhousing/starter.. I tapped the shock tower slightly with BFH which was another idea given and it worked just fine. I do have one more question - the header on the passenger side will be close to the underside of the car. Has anyone had trouble installing transmission and then when raising the tail up for the transmission mount, have the header outlet hit the bottom of the car? The drivers side seems to have more clearance.
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