Only thing I can suggest is to start with a known good condition and then work forward.  To do that, I would install plugs in the ports for both fronts and the rears at the distribution block.  Bleed a little to remove any air that got in by loosening the plugs a little.  Test your pedal.  If you have solid pedal you know you are good from the master to the dist-block.  Then I would install the front right and carefully bleed to keep the spool centered or make or buy the centering pin.  At this point, with only one caliper, you should still have good pedal.  Add the second front and re-test.  If you have solid fronts, I would re-install plugs in both fronts and then go for the backs.  Hard to do one at a time so you will be testing both after re-bleeding.  Seems tedious but you need to play the process of elimination game since every other effort has failed.  If the backs are good, then you probably have finally gotten the system bled, connect the fronts one at a time and you should be there.  You replaced the front hoses but did you replace the rear hose?  Let us know if you have a fail at any of the above steps.

More rambling thoughts...

What about the rear brakes?  Drums in spec?  New drums, shoes?  Adjust tight against drum, then back off ten clicks.

Also, the booster output shaft adjustment... You said you adjusted it and got a better pedal, but is it adjust for the best pedal?  It needs to be a few thousandths away from touching the piston in the mc.

And finally...  Does your car have the correct power brake pedal?   Which booster do you have?  If it is one of those thin aftermarket 9" boosters, they all have a shorter input shaft than the original and you have to do some special stuff to make them even work.

GT350 wrote:

MustangSteve wrote:

More rambling thoughts...

What about the rear brakes?  Drums in spec?  New drums, shoes?  Adjust tight against drum, then back off ten clicks.

Also, the booster output shaft adjustment... You said you adjusted it and got a better pedal, but is it adjust for the best pedal?  It needs to be a few thousandths away from touching the piston in the mc.

And finally...  Does your car have the correct power brake pedal?   Which booster do you have?  If it is one of those thin aftermarket 9" boosters, they all have a shorter input shaft than the original and you have to do some special stuff to make them even work.

rear drums are good shoes have plent of meat on them,i have adjusted the rears until the wheels lock then knock back adjuster until wheels move freely.
The booster is a clamp band factory style booster and pedal is the original power brake pedal.
the adjustment rod does have some movement before it contacts the piston in the master cyl.
im thinking i still have lots of air in system whats the best method to bleed  i have been pressing pedal 3 times then loosening the bleed nipple.

I used a Motive bleeder can, worked fine and is good for when you want to fully flush the system but I think I'll do what Daze did as a follow up step one of these days (see linked post below).

http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=853

GPatrick wrote:

Are you trying to bleed this by yourself?  For the manual method, you need two people minimum.  Have the pedal pusher push, relase, push, release, push and then hold pressure (if they are whimpy, you will need an alternate pusher).  Release the bleed screw and tighten before the pedal pusher lifts their foot.  Repeat this several times starting at the passenger rear, driver's rear, passenger front, driver's front until you get clear fluid for each wheel.  You may have to fill the master after each wheel and you for sure don't want it to go dry.  Put the master cover back on before pumping.  I find it works best to slowly pump and relase as I think going too fast can entrain small bubbles in the fluid that take a while to work their way out.  The order that I follow on bleeding is based on distance from the master - start with the furthest and work your way to the closest.

i use a helper to bleed the brakes

GPatrick wrote:

There are a lot of methods - vacuum pumps, pressurized from the master, back-pumping, etc.  But the pump and squirt method works well and no other tools are required.  Give it a go and report back.

will do some more bleeding tomorrow

bled the brakes again its alot worse car hardly stops im thinking its taking air at the front hoses i fitted new copper washers etc there is sign of brake fluid at that area,im going to switch to braided hoses hopefully get a better seal.

GPatrick wrote:

I guess I would return to my previous post - block off everything at the block and confirm that you can get a solid pedal with no brake lines in the system and then go though one at a time.  Braided lines are not going to solve this as I think your problem is more fundamental in nature.  If the car barely stops now, then testing it by driving is not a good idea.  Do you have anyone locally that can assist?

Did you bleed with two people?  Were you able to purge all of the air when doing this?  Was the master topped off each time?  At any point did you have a solid pedal?  Did bleeding one wheel in particular make a big difference?  Is the fluid that is coming out clear?  Again - have you blocked the spool in the distribution block?  A light not turning on is not alone proof that it has not moved since you have a switch and wires that can also also fail.

If the front flex lines are indeed leaking (and allowing air to re-enter) you can still prove the system by blocking everything off.  Yes, what I suggest is more time consuming but you are chasing your tail so prove to yourself that your brake pedal, booster, and master are working first.  If that part doesn't give you a rock-hard pedal, then you know where to start.

i will try blocking the dist valve once i get the correct fittings and start eliminating problems areas,when back brakes were bled pedal was going hard and when we started on the front pedal went soft.
 

MustangSteve wrote:

Any chance you could post a picture of your front calipers and hoses?

will get some tomorrow 

update on brakes now fully functional

replaced the brake dist valve with a new 1970 style and a new master cyl,and changed my bleeding method using a glass bottle a some tubing,i cracked open the bleed nipple and had someone pump the pedal and watched the fluid in bottle until bubble disappear the closed the bleed nipple done that a few times for each side ,kept topping up fluid after each bleed.
many thanks for everyones input