Nos681 wrote:

Is this the manual that you are using?

https://documents.holley.com/199r11322r.pdf#page25

OR

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sne-550-511.pdf

i have sniper efi 550.511  the second one . 
the odd question is how to keep run 12 v at same time with cranck , that actually is a separate action .  
honestly i dont understand so well this passage . efi needs 12v , ok   needs sensing spark from - side of coil , ok ...
but what the need of crank ?  
Anyway i first got solve some gremlins with my loom , at ignition switch . . i know i put my non electric hands over there . As i moved to pertronix ignitor , i get out my pink wire and use 12v to coil from the contral stud of ignition key. Only later i know it has juice only at run and not at crank ( that why always take long time to start . Acting like this in the moment of crank i got signal to " S " side of solenoid , no juice during transition from run to start  , and again 12 v to coil when key return in run .   
289 / 1966 /4v / manual / pertronix 1 and flame thrower coil

Any suggestion is wellcome . thanks 



What model do you have?

I do not have Sniper system or pertronix.
I asked questions to get more details to help troubleshoot.

Perhaps someone can suggest a way to help.

"Heat-my-shorts-to-Holley"!......My sentiments egg-zakly.......(I guess)?!
                                    Glad you got it sorted out.
6sally6

MS wrote:

Seems like Run/Start position would be to simply hook the wire to the wire from rhe solenoid that is hot when cranking the engine. It provides 12v power originally to the coil when cranking and is used to supply the starter solenoid’s power from the key switch.

hello ms !   you need both at same time .  , after crank  , at solenoid you loose power at  S teminal  and juice is provided by pink wire / green red .  i have bypassed pink wire and used a new wire from ignition switch to coil . tested with multimeter i have run and start always on run and start . Efi needs first a   run  position   , then feel the crank  and the signal from coil . 
Today is heavy rain so i cant test it , but next i will have some feedback about power and mpg . bye ! 

I understand that the way the Ford switch is made, current is only provided to either Start or Run but not both.  In the Start position, the brown wire from the solenoid sends 12 volts to the + post of coil for a stronger spark for starting the engine.  In the Run position, the pink wire sends a reduced voltage to the + post of the coil to reduce the operating temperature of the coil.  The reduced spark is not a problem with a running engine.  Since the + post of the coil does not get the same constant voltage when configured in the stock wiring setup, perhaps this is part of the reason it is not recommended to pull power from the + coil post.  In addition, it is not recommended to steal (reduce) any current feeding the coil since that will reduce the spark.  ...these are things to consider

Also, you can see that the coil is energized in both the Start and Run positions by the use of 2 wires instead of 1.
 

Alessandro wrote:

Rufus68 wrote:

I understand that the way the Ford switch is made, current is only provided to either Start or Run but not both.  In the Start position, the brown wire from the solenoid sends 12 volts to the + post of coil for a stronger spark for starting the engine.  In the Run position, the pink wire sends a reduced voltage to the + post of the coil to reduce the operating temperature of the coil.  The reduced spark is not a problem with a running engine.  Since the + post of the coil does not get the same constant voltage when configured in the stock wiring setup, perhaps this is part of the reason it is not recommended to pull power from the + coil post.  In addition, it is not recommended to steal (reduce) any current feeding the coil since that will reduce the spark.  ...these are things to consider. Also, you can see that the coil is energized in both the Start and Run positions by the use of 2 wires instead of 1.

 

thanks for reply , my wiring is no more at stock configuration as moved to pertronix ignitor and flamethrower that needs full 12v at coil and pick up . I moved the pink wire for a new clean one from ignition switch pigtail . please can you explain the last sentence , by using 2 wires ... 
i think to hook up two wires from switch key pigtail instead of 1 to coil .(one for coil , one for efi ). in this way i think is a better source of clean 12v .   
I know pick up juice fom coil is not the best option but  i dont know another trick to do have  run and start at same time . Do you have some relay / tricks ?
will pass next days with multimeter ...
thanks ! 

The red/green wire from the ignition switch that connects to the pink resister wire is hot when when in run and start. At least that is what the 68 print shows, I'm assuming other years are the same. If you replaced the resister wire with standard copper wire you should be fine. Maybe you could add a second wire back where you replaced the pink wire and add an in line fuse. 

wsinsle wrote:

The red/green wire from the ignition switch that connects to the pink resister wire is hot when when in run and start. At least that is what the 68 print shows, I'm assuming other years are the same. If you replaced the resister wire with standard copper wire you should be fine. Maybe you could add a second wire back where you replaced the pink wire and add an in line fuse. 

The 65-66 ignition switch has the same arrangement, Red/Green (#297) at ignition switch connects with a single plug connector just a short run (2-3" or 50-75mm) from the ignition switch to the "pink' resistor coil wire.  You connect at that point to pick up the full 12 volts.  Send me an email address, I have a picture I can forward.

 

Coupedaddy might be able to help ya on adjustments in computer for throttle input.

He mentioned it to me shortly after his install.
His was like on/off for throttle response too.
Probably a default setting which is great for a race car.
Not so much for in city traffic driving and parallel parking.

He’s only person i know that has Sniper…now you.

Nos681 wrote:

Coupedaddy might be able to help ya on adjustments in computer for throttle input.

He mentioned it to me shortly after his install.
His was like on/off for throttle response too.
Probably a default setting which is great for a race car.
Not so much for in city traffic driving and parallel parking.

He’s only person i know that has Sniper…now you.

  

well, yes it 's really too much on /off  .  i found some info about another linkage to delay secondaries . Did this trick today but opening the primaries still remain a snap . I think is the throttle lever fulcrum that is at wrong place . 
another thing i found today is the gas cap . Seems strage but was hot , and was not the sunlight . 
The issue with efi and return line is the gasoline that come hot . like a radiator it circulate round and round and warm up the tank . the gas cap was really hot . 
This should be a great question for holley ... if they answered 
 

TimC wrote:

Do you have a vented gas cap?  Does your gas tank look like an inflated balloon?

yes i have gas cap vent , just like any other mustang . wasnt any pressure once open the cap , but was really hot . will check tank . thanks 

josh-kebob wrote:

Where did you run your return line ?

  
3/8 copper pipe , same path  as gasoline pipe inlet , but on passenger side , then an8 fittings