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I'm considering purchasing a Miller 211 might welder. Anyone using one and if so, please post pros and cons. Also, I'd be interested to know the best place to purchase.
Not interested in any IMHO replies...my post is pretty simple.
Thanks
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Hi Josh, when I was purchasing my Lincoln MIG, I was doing research and found the big box stores had the same model welder as AA welding supply for considerably less. I went to a Lincoln seminar and talked to the experts and found out that even though the big box store was the same model, it was not the same machine. Plastic drive for the wire feed and a tapped transformer instead of a variable voltage adjustment etc. Sorry I can't comment on the Miller machine but I am sure someone on here can advise. I hope this doesn't fall into the IMHO category, that was not my intent.
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I replaced a Craftsman MIG with a Miller 211 about 12 years ago. It has performed flawlessly. I really like the ONE TOUCH setting where you just turn the dial to the metal thickness you are welding. The machine sets the wire speed and heat automatically.
When I first got it, for the first eight years of use, I just used the 110 volt plug into a 15 amp wall receptacle. It worked great unless welding 1/4" or thicker material for a long weld bead. It would trip the breaker after about 1-1/2" long weld on heavy material Never had any problems with 110 volt welding 1/8" or less. Since I built my new shop and wired it for 220 volt, I now plug it into 220. I have not had occasion to weld thick material yet, but it works flawlessly. I still have the 110 volt adapter plug just in case I need to go remote with it.
Bottom line:
Zero problems ** with it.
Welds great.
Expendable parts readily available.
You can change wire size easily by flipping the drive wheel from one side to the other.
Constant wire reel drag tension is applied by a spring-loaded reel mount, so no setting issues exist trying to get the wire drag just right.
Easily welds 20ga steel all the way up to great penetration in 3/8" steel.
If there is one complaint, it is that the ON-OFF switch is on the rear of the machine. Seems like it would be better up front, but is not an issue.
** When I first bought it, about the third time I used it, the wire feed would not work. I had to borrow Ramses' welder to do a job that had to go out right away. It turned out that I had unknowingly flipped the switch on the front of the unit that turned off the wire feed. After flipping the switch, the OPERATOR ERROR was corrected and it worked fine.
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I also have the Miller 211 and agree with all of Steve's comments, including his comment about the location of power switch! It would be a lot better on the front of the machine, but that's a minor detail.
I am a novice welder (took a class at a local trade school to learn the basics and have a few hours practicing with the 211) and I find it very easy to use. Nothing I have welded has come apart yet. The autoset feature works great. I started out using the 220 plug but switched to 110 recently and find I am welding better with it using 110. I am not sure why that is the case, because it really shouldn't make a difference, but so far I like welding better using the 110 plug. Maybe I am am just getting with practice which makes me think the 110 is better. I'll switch back to 220 again soon and give it another go.
I bought mine from Welders Supply a few years ago.
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Appreciate the replies. I believe I'm at the point of either retiring or using my Lincoln as a backup. It's served me will but, I want a better machine.
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MS, what setting is used if welding two different thickness metals together?
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gjz30075 wrote:
MS, what setting is used if welding two different thickness metals together?
You want as much penetration as possible, so the thicker piece dictates heat and speed. This is where your welding technique comes into play. You must direct the weld puddle more into the thicker piece and then control how much of the puddle bleeds over and affects the thinner piece.
If you were to set it for the thinner piece, there is no way you would get sufficient penetration in the thicker piece.
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The trick I use is to pause a tiny bit on the thicker material and then sort of blend in the thinner material in sort of a quarter turn motion like if you were using a whisk to beat eggs. Technique is the most important thing in welding. You just need to stay on top of what's happening. As you weld and the material heats up you'll find you could really use less amperage, but without something like a foot control for a TIG you have to just be mindful and adjust your technique. A lot is made of settings on a MIG, but they aren't a remedy for bad technique. This is why when someone wants to learn to weld I advise they start using a stick machine. Once you learn how to stick weld most other forms are easy by comparison.
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josh-kebob wrote:
I'm considering purchasing a Miller 211 might welder. Anyone using one and if so, please post pros and cons. Also, I'd be interested to know the best place to purchase.
Not interested in any IMHO replies...my post is pretty simple.
Thanks
JKB, I purchased my Miller from Cyberweld.com
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terry wrote:
josh-kebob wrote:
I'm considering purchasing a Miller 211 might welder. Anyone using one and if so, please post pros and cons. Also, I'd be interested to know the best place to purchase.
Not interested in any IMHO replies...my post is pretty simple.
ThanksJKB, I purchased my Miller from Cyberweld.com
Thanks
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That is a nice machine, it will go low enough ampacity wise for sheetmetal. I almost bought one then I went with a Miller 252 because the local Airgas had one.
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I have a small Eastwood MIG and it has worked really well. If I wanted a high-end welder, I'd give strong consideration the the Eastwood offering. At $1300, it looks to be a lot of machine for the money.
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The guys at Gateway classic always hawk Miller welders on Facebook. But they might have a sponsorship I don't know. I'd have to ask. That's what they use and the claim to love em. And some of Lonnie's videos he makes some damn pretty welds. I have another friend who has one, and he loves it too. Claims it makes a bad welder better. I need to go try it out, because I've never used that specific model. But I have not heard one negative thing about them.
Just for my personal experience I still like that machine I got frm Northern tool better than I ever liked that Lincoln weld-pac. But they already don't make them anymore.
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Personally my last welder was a 23 year old Miller Challenger 172 mig welder.
The advantage of the big names is that parts and consumables will be available decades later. The entire control board of my old Miller is still available new for $108.00
In 23 years of use the only thing it needed was a $20 relay replaced once.
That is why when I wanted something with more range I went out and bought another Miller.
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My MIG is a Lincoln and has held up well considering how much use its had. I've welded steel, stainless, and aluminum with it. I've never had to replace anything beyond normal service stuff (tips, etc.). Its limit is about 1/4" material. If I need to weld something thicker I use my inverter, which is a Miller. I just run it as a stick machine, but it can be set up with a spool gun for MIG or a torch kit for TIG. Its a really, really nice machine. I've even welded thick aluminum castings with it with excellent results (material must be super clean and you need the right rods). I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Miller.
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Bentworker wrote:
Personally my last welder was a 23 year old Miller Challenger 172 mig welder.
The advantage of the big names is that parts and consumables will be available decades later. The entire control board of my old Miller is still available new for $108.00
In 23 years of use the only thing it needed was a $20 relay replaced once.
That is why when I wanted something with more range I went out and bought another Miller.
That is the exact same machine I have and about the same age. The only money it needed was for consumables and I have used it for many projects that had up to 3/8” material with the odd job that needed multiple passes for very heavy stock.
I have a 180 amp shunt type stick welder that I built from Popular Mechanics plans aroun 1959 era. It has been used on hundreds of projects including welding broken Ford tractor front beam axel, it will burn up to 5/32 rods.
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