| ||
| Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
I thought I read some tips on rolling a fender for the rear to prevent tire rubbing. I know there is a tool by Eastwood. I just wanted to see what the other garage style fixes might be. I hit a decent dip today and heard the tires rub a little.
Offline
I have the eastwood tool if you're down for the drive to Roanoke.
Offline

Louisville slugger and a couple of fat gals to sit on the rear quarters.
6sally6
Offline
you wanting to roll the front or the back. Front can be done with a baseball bat...not sure about the back double wall
Offline
I need to roll the back. Or raise it. I love the stance right now, but will raise it to the second hole on the shackles and see what it looks like.
Offline

Because of the two layers of metal I was only able to get my rears to about 3/4" thick using a bfh.

Last edited by rpm (9/06/2014 9:03 AM)
Offline
Looks like you have plenty of clearance.
Steve69
Offline
I was at the Mecum auction in Dallas yesterday and saw a variation on fender lip rolling. One Mustang I saw had what looked like overly large front tires and just from a visual inspection it looked like the tire had to rub no matter how much the lip was rolled. So I felt the fender edge to see how much the lip was rolled and guess what? No fender lip! The fender just came down and stopped. It couldn't have been more than a 1/4" thick. O.K. For show cars, probably not O.K. For street cars.
Offline

rpm - do you use the bfh after the car was painted? I had several "body" people tell me not to try this after the car is painted as there is a good chance of cracking the paint at the outer corner of the lip.
Offline
Here's a good video on how to roll a fender with a baseball bat:
Offline

Yes I did roll both front and rear after paint as I usually do things bass ackwards. I didn't realize I wanted/needed them rolled till after paint. And yes Steve69 there is plenty of room. No issues with paint chipping on the rear. On the front I rolled them as far as I could with a hammer, then cut slits to get them flush. Then I welded the slits. They needed a bit of body work and will need repainted.

Bob
Offline

BTW - Before I learned about the baseball bat method, I used Eastwood's "Fender Finisher" (plier type), worked well on the front fenders, didn't work at all on the rears.
Offline
If you do want the Eastwood fender roller, it's available on ebay now for $120:
Offline
Cool thank you.
Offline
I have used my Eastwood roller on many a car from Porches to Pintos and had good results. Warm up the paint a little and you get no serious cracking. I have even moved some of the lumps in the wheel well with it to get more bump room inside the fender.
Offline

My method. You have to plan ahead, which hardly ever happens.
Lay the fender face down in a nice thick patch of grass in the yard. Slowly hammer the lip with the flat end of a ball peen hammer to fold it back so the inside edge is vertical when on the car, and there is a 1/4" or slightly less gap between the fender and the rolled lip. That leaves room for water to run out from between the fender and the lip, and the lip is vertical so even if it does rub, it doesn't cut anything. I have used this method even on painted fenders and you can still roll the edge without affecting any paint that shows. (I didn't say YOUR paint wouldn't chip).
If you hammer the inner lip flat against the fender or quarter panel, well... You just created a really nice place to catch dirt...nice, moist, dirt. And there is no way to clean it out. You have to leave a gap.
Tires and wheels that actually fit the car are a big plus as well when it comes to wheel clearance.
Offline
MustangSteve wrote:
My method. You have to plan ahead, which hardly ever happens.
Lay the fender face down in a nice thick patch of grass in the yard. Slowly hammer the lip with the flat end of a ball peen hammer to fold it back so the inside edge is vertical when on the car, and there is a 1/4" or slightly less gap between the fender and the rolled lip. That leaves room for water to run out from between the fender and the lip, and the lip is vertical so even if it does rub, it doesn't cut anything. I have used this method even on painted fenders and you can still roll the edge without affecting any paint that shows. (I didn't say YOUR paint wouldn't chip).
If you hammer the inner lip flat against the fender or quarter panel, well... You just created a really nice place to catch dirt...nice, moist, dirt. And there is no way to clean it out. You have to leave a gap.
Tires and wheels that actually fit the car are a big plus as well when it comes to wheel clearance.
I always hear about these great tips AFTER I did it my way...which is to say I users a BFH and hammered the lips on the rears till they touched....fortunatly, was before the bodywork, cause this caused a couple bumps on each fender...little too afresive with the BFH.
| REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |