BobE wrote:

RTM - If you use the red wire from the solenoid, power to the voltmeter will always be ‘on’.  While the current draw of the voltmeter is quite low, it will draw down the battery over time.
Using the 12v power wire for the CVU will only energize the voltmeter when the ignition switch is ‘on’.
When I removed the ammeter, I left the red and yellow caped at both ends. (maybe use for somethng in the future)
Be careful with the black-green wire as that color is used for both the 12v source to the CVU, and the output from the CVU to gauges. 
The power source for the black-green wire is form the rear of the ignition switch.
I would leave the alternator power source connection to the battery terminal on the solenoid.  And use that point to provide power to the fuse block (as done by the factory). 

 
Ok I didn’t think about the constant draw.  I should have specified thought of that as it’s pretty straight guy forward on how and where it’s connected.  Thanks for pointing that out.

I was thinking the red was suppling power to other points in the harness.   I could have sworn its spliced in the factory harness. 

I was thinking of using the yellow or now maybe red as my constant 12V to my progressive distributor which it requires.  Maybe I can find a power source that is on while cranking and running a feed it back via the red wire. 

Think I’ll mount the solenoid down low next to the battery tray.  All my wires exit behind the AV compressor and I’m mounting my coil behind the AC compressor.






upload image

https://www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-1079.pdf

The pic you posted didn't have the notation (not used on Voltmeter). There's a voltmeter specific diagram further down the PDF.
 

RTM – regarding your previous post:
 
“I was thinking the red was suppling power to other points in the harness.   I could have sworn its spliced in the factory harness.”
 
“I was thinking of using the yellow or now maybe red as my constant 12V to my progressive distributor which it requires.  Maybe I can find a power source that is on while cranking and running a feed it back via the red wire”
 
I’m not sure what distributor you have but I doubt it requires a ‘consistent’ voltage source with the ignition ‘off’.  I would think it needs a full 12volt source when the ignition is ‘on’. 
The OEM wiring supplies 12v to the coil only during starting.  Once the ignition switch is returned to ‘on’, there is a resistor in the circuit that drops the voltage to the coil to around 9volts.  The resister wire has a plug-in connector that connects the red-green wire off the ignition switch to a pink wire (resistor).
 
Remember, the red wire from the ammeter is ‘hot’ all the time, and was not made to carry any real ‘load’.   The yellow wire for the ammeter is also hot all the time, I wouldn’t use that to provide power to anything else. 
You could repurpose either the red or yellow wires to provide 12volts to the coil by cutting it free from the existing circuit in the engine compartment, and connect to the coil.  In the interior, reconnect to the plug connector off the ignition switch (red-green wire) that the pink wire was connected.  This will provide 12volts whenever the ignition is ‘on’, or ‘start’.
You could use the OEM red-green wire off the ignition switch by eliminating the pink resistor wire.  However, I’m not sure where the pink wire is spliced back into the red-green wire that ends up at the coil. 
 
Note that the brown wire on the ‘I’ terminal of the solenoid (that supplies 12v to the coil during starting) can be eliminated as 12v is now being provided by eliminating the resistor wire.

Looks like the red wire going to the ammeter is not spliced into at all so I could use it for a 12V source as long as I pull the 12V from the ignition for run/start, if I use it for the distributor.

The yellow that runs to the ammeter is jumped off of the Black/yellow so it should have a constant 12V running through it.

Last edited by RTM (7/30/2024 7:08 AM)

RTM wrote:

Looks like the red wire going to the ammeter is not spliced into at all so I could use it for a 12V source as long as I pull the 12V from the ignition for run/start, if I use it for the distributor.

The yellow that runs to the ammeter is jumped off of the Black/yellow so it should have a constant 12V running through it.

Yes, you can use the red wire as you indicate.
Yes, the yellow wire would have a constant 12v on it.  There should be a single plug connector spliced into the black/yellow wire that I suggest be removed so as isolate power from the yellow wire.  This maybe a personal item for me, but I don't like having energized wires just 'hanging out'. 
 

BobE wrote:

RTM wrote:

Looks like the red wire going to the ammeter is not spliced into at all so I could use it for a 12V source as long as I pull the 12V from the ignition for run/start, if I use it for the distributor.

The yellow that runs to the ammeter is jumped off of the Black/yellow so it should have a constant 12V running through it.

Yes, you can use the red wire as you indicate.
Yes, the yellow wire would have a constant 12v on it.  There should be a single plug connector spliced into the black/yellow wire that I suggest be removed so as isolate power from the yellow wire.  This maybe a personal item for me, but I don't like having energized wires just 'hanging out'. 
 

 
I think I know exactly which plug you are referring to.   

I’m going over schematics while updating work iPads we have all over the hospital.  It’s a perfect time to look and learn a little about the wiring.  lol