BobE wrote:

The 'S' terminal on the solenoid provides full 12v power to the ignition coil during cranking.  There could be a short in the starter that is being back-fed to the coil via the 'S' terminal wire that was causing your problem.  Note that once the solenoid is de-powered, the ‘S’ terminal is isolated from the starter's cable.

 

My gross mistake, I should have indicated the 'I' terminal, not the 'S' terminal in my post.  My apologies for the confusion.

 

That would work electrically, but I wouldn’t do it that way personally.

Here is my reason.

The old version uses the fender mounted solenoid as a pilot circuit…low amount of current.
Likely to last forever in this configuration.
Only high current arcing is at the PMGR solenoid (battery-starter high current).
If a contact failure occurs, most likely at starter.

The new version has high current going through the fender mounted solenoid AND the starter mounted solenoid every time.  If contact failure occurs, it could be one or both.

This is how the ‘92 Mustang 5.0L PMGR starter is wired in the ‘65.
I have a 12 AWG starter wire (black in color to hide wire) zip tied to the 1/0 welding cable (also black in color since early 90’s…don’t remember red as an option back then)… aka battery cable.
I have an H5 size battery (Group 47).



Attached is the test sheet of the starter in the ‘65 (installed in 2018).



I pulled this from the internet this morning.

Last edited by Nos681 (9/07/2024 6:14 AM)

I installed the new starter from O'reilly's and it cranked a little slow.   I had the battery fully charged a week ago and I had disconnected the battery cable while it sat.  I decided to replace the battery also.  It was only 2 years old.  Took it in and had it tested.  It had 13.3 volts but only 200 cranking amps.  So the replaced it for free.  Its my 3rd battery in 7 years.  I do a tender charger over the winter.  I just think there just not a great battery.  I think the over cranking when my engine wouldn't fire must of did it in.   Good news is the car ran great.  Took it out for a 30-minute drive and everything seemed to work ok.  I was also having this annoying surge in 2 gear while driving in town 25mph.  Id usually shift up to 3rd gear and it was gone. After installing the new distributor and timing along with carb adjustment it wasn't doing that anymore.  I did wire the starter with Dan's wiring diagram. Thats how I had it previously also.   Thanks for all the help!  Steve69

Last edited by Steve69 (9/09/2024 7:57 AM)

Steve69 wrote:

there just not a great battery.  I think the over cranking when my engine wouldn't crank did it in......  Steve69

My engine (and lawnmower) is spoiled on Brakleen (I love that stuff !)
  I just give the engine a sniff and it  'farz-up' in a hurry. (I think it saves the battery life too !!!)
Thanka bout it ....
6sal6

Nos681 wrote:

Glad you got it running again.

“It’s always a mechanical problem, not electrical.
Electricity will flow as long as of all of the mechanical connections are good.”😜

The dead battery is mechanical.
Small wires is mechanical.
Poor terminal connections on wires is mechanical.
Bad contacts is mechanical.
Bad windings is mechanical.

I had used the argument at work regarding the splicing of cables and received silence and ‘hairy eyeball’ looks from our QA department.  The mechanical engineers didn’t like having to recognize that failures of the mechanical components within electrical equipment is what stopped the flow of electrons.  

Rufus68 wrote:

BobE wrote:

Nos681 wrote:

Glad you got it running again.

“It’s always a mechanical problem, not electrical.
Electricity will flow as long as of all of the mechanical connections are good.”😜

The dead battery is mechanical.
Small wires is mechanical.
Poor terminal connections on wires is mechanical.
Bad contacts is mechanical.
Bad windings is mechanical.

I had used the argument at work regarding the splicing of cables and received silence and ‘hairy eyeball’ looks from our QA department.  The mechanical engineers didn’t like having to recognize that failures of the mechanical components within electrical equipment is what stopped the flow of electrons.  

Using the logic of the above two posts, then if the size of a wire specification is the responsibility of an Electrical Engineer (as it should be), then you can't say a small wire is mechanical.

This is the same ‘hairy eyeball’ expression I was mentioning.  The proper sizing of the wiring/cable/equipment is the responsibility of the EE.  I was not referring to the incorrect sizing of these items, but the failures associated with properly sized equipment.