FYI FORD MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum / U-joint question

**Posted by RTM** 7/22/2024 12:46 PM

I don’t think the driveshaft I got with the project mustang I’m working on. I can’t afford a new drive shaft right now and the one out of the mustang will fit. As long as I can get the 1310-1330 conversion u-joints. I think I got that right. Anyhow, the drive shaft out of the mustang does not appear to be a 1310. Here’s a couple pictures I snapped this morning before work. The cap size looks like it’s 1” and it looks to be to narrow. A 1310 would be 3 7/32 wide with a cap size of 1 1/16. Plus it’s got inner clips but I think the new u-joints come with groves for inner clips.

Am I out of luck using this drive shaft?

**Posted by TKOPerformance** 7/22/2024 1:39 PM

I would start here:

https://spicerparts.com/resources/measuring-u-joints

Spicer has always been my go to for conversion u-joints. If in doubt contact their tech department.

**Posted by Nos681** 7/22/2024 2:29 PM

I believe you have the “Mechanics” u-joints.
All inside snap retainers.

Front u-joint is 1”x1” caps (Moog 507) or (Dana 53242X)
Rear u-joint is 1”x 1-1/8” caps (Moog 498) or (Dana 52173X)

Last edited by Nos681 (7/22/2024 2:44 PM)

**Posted by Nos681** 7/22/2024 2:58 PM

This is the stock 289/c4 slip yoke on my ‘65.
I cut off the non-splined section a few days ago.
A reliable T5 rebuilder suggested this modification.

The T5 transmission seal rides closer to the yoke than the C4.

**Posted by rpm** 7/22/2024 6:29 PM

If I you, I wouldn't want the U-joints to be the week link of the drive train.

**Posted by Rudi** 7/22/2024 9:13 PM

If I may add that “U” joints with no zerks are stronger as well.

**Posted by Nos681** 7/22/2024 9:46 PM

I install u-joints with zerks in compression while driving forward.

**Posted by lowercasesteve** 7/22/2024 10:02 PM

RTM wrote:
I don’t think the driveshaft I got with the project mustang I’m working on. I can’t afford a new drive shaft right now and the one out of the mustang will fit. As long as I can get the 1310-1330 conversion u-joints. I think I got that right. Anyhow, the drive shaft out of the mustang does not appear to be a 1310. Here’s a couple pictures I snapped this morning before work. The cap size looks like it’s 1” and it looks to be to narrow. A 1310 would be 3 7/32 wide with a cap size of 1 1/16. Plus it’s got inner clips but I think the new u-joints come with groves for inner clips.

Am I out of luck using this drive shaft?

My first reaction when seeing the first photo was "is he measuring the size of of his big toe?

**Posted by TKOPerformance** 7/23/2024 4:48 AM

I wouldn't worry about the u-joints being the weak link. U-joints only break when there is traction in my experience. A street car has the tires as the weak link (as it should be).

I do tend to use solid u-joints in everything now though. I've seen dozens of solid u-joints last 150-200k miles in trucks that were used hard, and none of these cars are going to see that kind of mileage.

**Posted by RTM** 7/23/2024 4:54 AM

Not measuring my big toe. Lol

I don’t plane one keeping this drive shaft because there is no way it will hold. I’m only looking at temporary use to test the car, when I get to that point. I have a 31 spline output shaft, it’s a G Force built T5. Now I already forgot but I believe the yoke is a 1330 and so is yoke on the 9”. Was hoping for a conversion u-joint.

I should have time today to look at the link given above.

**Posted by BobE** 7/23/2024 6:08 AM

Below is from U-Joint data I’ve collected:
1310 are 3.25” wide w/1.0625” cups
1330 are 3.625” wide w/1.125” cups
1350 are 3.625” wide w/1.1875” cups

I used the 1330 u-joints, front and rear, on my T5 and 9" rear.
Not sure if this is helpful or not.

**Posted by RTM** 7/23/2024 11:44 AM

It appears the u-joint (5-2173X) in the drive shaft I have is as follows.

Cap 1.0
Cap 1.125
Length A 2.344
Length B 3.219

1310 only comes with a cap size 1.062. The 1330 cap size can be 1.062 or 1.125. The 1310 also shares the same width as the 5-2173X. What I don’t know is if I can put a cap from a 1330 on the 5-2173X. If so then I have a home made conversion u-joint. I may look these two parts up and see if the local parts store has them. Can’t hurt to see if I can make it work.

**Posted by TKOPerformance** 7/23/2024 7:14 PM

When in doubt micrometer and see. I hope it works, but I am doubtful because they are different series, and the larger the series number (10, 30, 50, etc.) the stronger the u-joint. I would assume they achieve that with a larger trunion diameter and more or larger needle bearings. I'd imagine that the wall thickness of the cap if you will is about the same. Let us know what you find out though, I'm curious.

**Posted by RTM** 7/24/2024 3:08 AM

TKOPerformance wrote:
When in doubt micrometer and see. I hope it works, but I am doubtful because they are different series, and the larger the series number (10, 30, 50, etc.) the stronger the u-joint. I would assume they achieve that with a larger trunion diameter and more or larger needle bearings. I'd imagine that the wall thickness of the cap if you will is about the same. Let us know what you find out though, I'm curious.

That’s probably true but I recall mixing caps way back in the day before the internet. A guy at a Napa store helped me figure out what I needed from a book. The u-joint I have is around $55. I didn’t expect that. The 1330 is $15-$25 so I may just buy a 1330 and see if I can swap caps with what I have. Don’t want to throw money at it when I could use that money for a new driveshaft.

**Posted by RTM** 7/24/2024 7:03 AM

Was in the garage this morning before I left for work and the u-joint in the drive shaft I have is the same length on both ends. This doesn’t match what I looked up in the link posted above. Now I did try the cap from the 1330 I have on the transmission yoke on the u-joint on the drive shaft I have and it’s not even close to fitting. I figured this would be the case since it’s the same length on both ends.

**Posted by BobE** 7/24/2024 7:15 AM

Regarding swapping caps on u-joints. I know my father's 61 Galaxie had different caps on the yoke side and the driveshaft side. I don't remeber if it was the front, or rear, or both ends. The car had a driveshaft issue and used to eat u-joints. My dad would buy the two sizes and swap caps so the installed u-joint had the different size caps to fit.
I'll also add the a high school friend who spent his career as a Ford part manager had stated that the 60's Ford cars u-joints were a huge pain trying to identify ... and the bigger trucks were worsse.

**Posted by RTM** 7/24/2024 7:16 AM

The 507 is the same size on both ends. The 498 is the offset length. If I could get a 1.062 cap for the 498 I would have a u-joint for the rear. The front yoke is not looking like I have any options unless the slip yoke on the drive shaft fits my transmission but I doubt it.

Killing time at work will I update iPads. Lol

**Posted by rpm** 7/24/2024 9:57 AM

The offset won't affect using a larger size cap. At least it didn't matter on swapping my 1.062 to 1.125".

Last edited by rpm (7/24/2024 9:58 AM)

**Posted by RTM** 7/24/2024 12:22 PM

rpm wrote:
The offset won't affect using a larger size cap. At least it didn't matter on swapping my 1.062 to 1.125".

Sounds like you have the version that can come with either size cap. I think that’s the 1330. Do you recall which model it-joint you did this on?

**Posted by Greg B** 7/24/2024 2:49 PM

https://www.differentials.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/U-Joints-by-Series-and-Dimensions.jpg

I have a conversion u joint down in the parts pile. Do you need some pictures and measurements? If so, I can woller down there.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/spicer/cv-driveshaft-axle/u-joints---rear-shaft/e170757eebe3/spicer-u-joint/spi0/5134x

This is the joint I have. If there is anything you need measured.

Last edited by Greg B (7/24/2024 3:07 PM)

**Posted by rpm** 7/24/2024 9:16 PM

RTM wrote:
rpm wrote:
The offset won't affect using a larger size cap. At least it didn't matter on swapping my 1.062 to 1.125".

Sounds like you have the version that can come with either size cap. I think that’s the 1330. Do you recall which model it-joint you did this on?

**Posted by Nos681** 7/25/2024 5:14 AM

Does your slip yoke fit the G force T5?

**Posted by RTM** 7/26/2024 3:30 AM

Nos681 wrote:
Does your slip yoke fit the G force T5?

Yes it came with the T5 when I bought. It came with a high dollar drive shaft but it fits the SN95 mustangs and was way too short for my application.

I think I can make a converse joint for the rear but not the front. The front needs to be the smaller mustang size and width one side but needs to be 3-5/8 length on the other side. This is the combo I can’t find.

My rear housing yoke I bought is the 3.2. The smaller mustang u joint comes in the narrower width with a longer 3.2 side. It’s just the cap size is different at 1.125 and I need 1.06 cap size. Either way it’s the front u joint that I can’t piece together.

**Posted by Nos681** 7/26/2024 5:25 AM

I could not find a conversion u-joint to go from the stock ‘65 inside snap ring (1” caps) to the stock ‘92 1330 slip yoke.

For a bone stock ‘92 5.0L, I am still using my bone stock ‘65 driveshaft.

Eventually, I will need to upgrade driveshaft (external snap rings) when future modifications get installed.

My understanding, there is an Explorer 2wd driveshaft that will work.

Unfortunately everything is rusted and 4 wheel drive in my area.

**Posted by TKOPerformance** 7/26/2024 6:43 AM

Just gong to throw this out there, but I had a new driveshaft made for mine locoally for less than $300. Steel, nothing fancy, but better than the rusty one I had. I use a place called Associated Truck Parts. Pretty sure they are a national chain, so might be one near you. They've made a couple shafts for me over the years and also rebalanced ones I've rebuilt and the results were always top notch. My thought is that if this starts getting expensive ($50 here, $30 there) it may be false economy trying to get what you have to work and you end up throwing good money after bad.