Power brake to manual brake

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Posted by John Ha
11/12/2024 8:36 AM
#1

Just wondering what I'd have to do to convert from the MustangSteve CK-165M power brake on my 66 convertible to the original manual brake before I actually start taking things apart.

Is it possible to adapt the power brake pedal support bracket to work without the booster?  If so, can I do that without removing the pedal support bracket from the car?  

Are there firewall mods that have to be done to cover up holes if I go back to the original pedal support bracket?

What other changes (master cylinder, etc.) might be required)?

TIA

Last edited by John Ha (11/12/2024 10:30 AM)


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Posted by BobE
11/12/2024 9:49 AM
#2

Based on what I copied from the MS Website a couple of years ago;  "Brake Pedals Identification and Interchangeability FAQ", the brake pedals for 65-66 manual and power brakes are the same. 
I'm not sure if this info still exists, but if you PM your email address, I'll forward it to you. 

 


65 Fastback, 351W, 5-speed, 4 wheel discs, 9" rear,  R&C Front End.
 
Posted by John Ha
11/12/2024 10:37 AM
#3

BobE wrote:

Based on what I copied from the MS Website a couple of years ago;  "Brake Pedals Identification and Interchangeability FAQ", the brake pedals for 65-66 manual and power brakes are the same. 

Thanks Bob, but this kit included a "Revised Pedal Ratio - Less pedal travel required & modern car 'feel'" so I'm pretty sure I'll be changing the brake pedal back to the original one I kept.

I'm mainly concerned with the pedal support bracket and the firewall.  I don't recall what the firewall looked like after I installed the pedal support bracket from the kit.  It looks like the master cylinder holes will either have to be redrilled into the support bracket from the kit or that the support bracket will have to be replaced with the original unit.  Hoping to find out which of those I'm in for so I can order parts before I start and be prepared to make some sheet metal changes to the firewall.


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Posted by MS
11/12/2024 12:32 PM
#4

Here is how

You need a manual, unmodified brake pedal for 65-66.  67 will work, too.
The brake pedal will bolt right into the pedal support bearings.

On the firewall, your master cylinder will bolt up after redrilling the pedal support for the two attaching holes.  You will want to weld a couple of 3/8” nuts to the support to accept those bolts holding the master cylinder.

Since the firewall center hole is larger for the booster, you may want to make a thin sheet metal filler panel to go between the master cylinder and the firewall, just to block airflow.

Clutch pedal function will not be impacted.

I would happily swap you your pedal support and brake pedal for a stock one if you are hell-bent on undoing your power brakes.  I want to add them to my 65 convertible so it has the best power brake system possible.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 
Posted by John Ha
11/12/2024 1:18 PM
#5

MS wrote:

Here is how

Thank you!

MS wrote:

I would happily swap you your pedal support and brake pedal for a stock one if you are hell-bent on undoing your power brakes. I want to add them to my 65 convertible so it has the best power brake system possible.

I appreciate that offier and will have to think about it a bit.  I was really hoping to not have to remove the pedal support bracket, but if I need to weld a couple of nuts to it to make it work, then that's pretty much out the window ... unless I can put a couple of rivnuts in there from the engine side.  It'd probably be a ton easier if the engine was out too, and I'm not sure I'm up for that either.


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Posted by 6sally6
11/12/2024 5:31 PM
#6

"Anybody see this huge ELEPHANT standing in the middle of the room.........."
(I'll do it...)
So John....why ya swapping out power brakes for manuals?!
6sal6


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 
Posted by MS
11/12/2024 6:07 PM
#7

6sally6 wrote:

"Anybody see this huge ELEPHANT standing in the middle of the room.........."
(I'll do it...)
So John....why ya swapping out power brakes for manuals?!
6sal6

Well, he also removed a v8 to install a six, so…


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 
Posted by John Ha
11/13/2024 7:13 AM
#8

Oh, I didn't realize that was an elephant.  I suppose I should have guessed from the ears, trunk, and pink toenails (so it could hide in cherry trees).

My brake master cylinder just broke.  Since these cars are simple (and the power brake isn't really necessary if the other elements of the system are properly functioning), I'm considering simplifying and removing another failure point by ditching the booster. 

As for the six, my car was originally a six, converted (not all that well) by a previous owner to a V8.  So why not change some of it back to something closer to original?  Just because most everyone yanks out I6 engines and replaces them with V8s doesn't mean I have to.

Putting the 250 in was a challenge.  I learned a lot and had a lot of fun finding and fabbing up stuff to make it work.  I suppose that if it was easy, everyone would be doing it.   :-)

Last edited by John Ha (11/13/2024 7:45 AM)


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Posted by Bullet Bob
11/13/2024 9:43 AM
#9

John, you should have gone with a 200 since everyone is throwing them out.  Years ago when a lot guys were stuffing Pinto engines in their Model A's, I knew a guy who put a Model A-Riley 4 Port-Winfield equipped engine and a C4 in a Pinto hatchback.  Told everyone it was the cheapest way to go...all the scrap A engines and Pinto bodies.....Right!
Butt (TS&T) that thing went like stink.  On one of our LA to Vegas runs I watched him run off from a 911 on the Baker Grade.

BB

 

Last edited by Bullet Bob (11/13/2024 9:45 AM)


"you get what you pay for, good work isn't cheap, and there are NO free lunches...PERIOD!"
 
Posted by John Ha
11/13/2024 10:33 AM
#10

Bullet Bob wrote:

John, you should have gone with a 200 since everyone is throwing them out. 
BB

I did - mostly - the 250 is just a stroked 200 (so I have a 125% 200 ).

I thought about the 200 but wanted the extra low-end torque and the ease of bolting it to my existing drivetrain without having to buy an adapter.  Of course I still had, and solved, issues with engine mounting, accessories, throttle linkage, exhaust, ... 

The fuel economy so far has been really good (24 on my mixed town-country driving) and I'm happy with the overall performance.  It drives well in town and feels comfortable at 80 on the freeway

Perhaps best of all, it's different (not bashing anyone - just expressing personal opinion/experience ... as 6sally6 sez, "Get busy Liv'in ...") - not the same as all those V8-swapped cars, and not the same as the few remaining stock I6 cars.  I guess I'm just a contrarian at heart.


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Posted by kardad
11/13/2024 10:48 AM
#11

I am a huge fan of the inline motors, but must admit that I like the 200/250 in a Falcon build but still prefer a small V8 in the Mustang,

I have built several F100’s of different models and my favorite have been the ones with a 300 straight 6 and 5-speed T5

There’s two ways to be noticed, be nicer than everyone’s build or be different. There is only so many Coyote or LS swaps a person can look at.

 
Posted by RCodePaul
11/14/2024 6:07 PM
#12

John Ha wrote:

  I guess I'm just a contrarian at heart.

I've read in several places that straight six guys at car shows get a lot of love from attendees. 

On the contrarian thing, I always struggle with the pronunciation. Usually say "CON trair ee uhn" even that's not the correct way. The first syllable is a doozie. 


69 SCJ Mach1 Acapulco Blue/Black Ram Air  65 Fastback 422W C4 Disk brakes, 9in
 


 
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