6.27” backspacing?

Is the 235/55/17 going to be too tall?

Last edited by Nos681 (5/24/2024 8:14 AM)

I’ll have to look up or measure the BS on both.  Pretty sure the one picture shows the offset of the front rim. 

As for driving I don’t plan on driving on these wheels.  I have $75 invested in them.  I needed some to roll it around on.   I figured it was an extra bonus with the back rims being 10.5.  With both front and back rims I feel better about getting the correct BS I need by using these wheels to narrow it down.  Pretty sure I’ll get my money back when I sell them.

So far I added a 5/8 spacer to the front and the only thing I see as an issue is the sway bolt but I can flip it and it should clear the inside of the rim.    I also snapped a picture of the tire size I want to use on the front.

The rear I added 0.75 and have room to go on the inside.  It’s very close to the rolled quarter panel lip and I have it about as low as the coil overs will allow me to adjust to.   I think 5/8 would yield the perfect BS for the rear and allow me to run an 11” rim, I don’t think the rims I want come in 10.5, only 10 or 11.   

The side shot is 1” higher than where the other pictures were taken.

'No-ice'...
6s6

Nos681 wrote:

I would suggest turning the wheels lock to lock to see if there are any other clearance issues.

Also suggest with wheels turned, run through travel to see if it hits fender.

 
Already turned the front but not the suspension.   The sway bar bolt hits but if I flip the bolt then it would clear.  My plan is to go with a 7.5 front rim as long as it’s offered in the model I want.  Full turn it does hit the frame in the back but it did that with the correct tire size and 7.5 BS with the tire back spacing tool I have.  I need to disconnect the sway bar link so the suspension is easier to move.

The rear looks really good with the current setup and I think adding an 1/8 or 1/4 to the BS would really allow me slam the car down.  I have 1.25 from the tire to the closet point of contact on the inside.  I with the 11” rear rim that would take away 1/2 from that clearance and if I want an extra 1/4 of clearance for the quarter panel that would leave me 3/4 of clearance on the inside of the tire.  With a WATTS link I don’t think my axle will move that much. 

I would have done more but got called in for work ant 1:30 and just got back home.  Hopefully tomorrow is a day with more progress.

The tire shop I use for all our cars mounted the test tire I had for the front for free.  The 17x8 actually clears everything except for the MTF bar I installed.  When I installed the I got it as close the inner fender as I could.   The tire clears at what should be ride height but when I compress the suspension the tire hits when turned the left.  A 5/8” spacer gains some extra clearance but not enough.   Not sure if 7” rim would be much better.   It may increase the overall diameter enough to hit which may cancel the affect of trying to use a narrower rim.   Pictures are with 5/8 spacer

The simplest thing would be to modify the bar for clearance.   I do like the position of the wheel with the 5/8” spacer.  Not as sunk into the wheel opening.

Last edited by RTM (5/27/2024 10:56 AM)

Looks very nice.

Might consider replacing the hex head bolt for sway bar with a button head bolt with an Allen head or Torx head.

A Foxbody trick for rear tire clearance.

Last edited by Nos681 (5/28/2024 4:50 AM)

BobE wrote:

RTM wrote:

After reading the R&C instructions, they really suggest running a 7” rim with 4-4.5 BS. Going by my math the front wheel would now be at 4.7 if it was a 7” wide rim. So I feel safe with a7” rim and 4.5 BS. Of course I’ll keep looking at it and thinking about it for a while, just to make sure I’m good with it.

The back I’ll leave the BS as is and the extra 1/2 will go to the outside of the rim. So I’ll order an 11” wide rim with the 6.75 BS. I have plenty of room for this and can still keep the wheel tucked up inside past the wheel lip.

I’ve been stressing over all of this because it’s a lot of money to spend and make a mistake.

Just for an example - I have the R&C MII front end in my 65 Mustang and am running 15 x 7" American Racing wheels w/3.75" BS and 225/60 Goodrich T/A's.  While the back spacing doesn't meet the R&C recommendations, the front tires are close to the fenders but do not touch; the fender lips have been rolled a bit. 
 

I have the 2” drop spindles on my R&C kit.  I am also running the 03 cobra brakes on the stock hub.  Not sure if the track width is any different from the MII rotors that come in the kit.

The 7” wide rim shows it can only be ordered with a max of 3.5 BS.   I need to call them and ask if I can get at least 4” of BS. 
 

I called vintage Wheels and they can make the 17x7 with 4.25 back spacing.  They did advise me to confirm the caliper clearance using their drawing to fill in the different measurements.  He said the cobra calipers stick out more than standard calipers. 

It sucks I couldn’t have bought wheels two years ago.   They’ve jump over $200 a piece since I first stater looking at them. Ugh

BobE wrote:

I should have included that I also have the 2" dropped spindles.  The calipers are the R&C supplied, that are from  "79-93 GM, Malibu, Monte Carlo, S-10".  Rotors are also the R&C supplied from "1975-1980, Granada, 11", 5-bolt"  I had no issues fitting the 15" wheels.  
I don't think the $200 price tag for the Vintage custom wheel is that outrageous ... in today's world. 

 
The wheels I want have gone up by over $200 in the last 2-3 years.  Roughly $620 apiece for the fronts and $690 apiece for the rears.

RTM wrote:

The 225/60 15 is 25.6” and the tire I have is a 225/45 17 and is 25” tall.  Both have the same width at 8.9”

 
According to your picture.