Ah yes, ‘design changes’ during construction always seem to cause other issues that then need to be resolved, sometimes not so easily.
Your progress is very good so far.  Good luck.going forward. 

Rufus68 wrote:

Will the racing AGM battery fit your tray?  If so, don't you think it would work well continuing with your current direction?

 
I built the tray to fit that size battery with a little wiggle room to be safe.   I actually feel better about having the battery in the stock location.  So yes, I think it’s a great option and will work out well, if not better than the trunk mounted option.  I’m just not willing to tackle the trunk mounted option nor do I really see any benefit in going with a trunk mounted battery.  I think going to the trunk is just going to make things more complicated than leaving it in the stock location.

I’m always open to suggestions an ideas.  It wasn’t until I was looking into the best options to mount the battery in the trunk that I discovered the smaller battery option.   So I gave it a shot and I’m glad I did.

Sometimes the first plan is the best plan.....
Battery in trunk would solve ALL these issues.
6sally6

With my in-trunk-mounting....I installed a post under the hood so I could hook-up my timing light for timing tune ups.

Last edited by 6sally6 (7/08/2024 11:09 AM)

RTM wrote:

Here’s another example of modifying something that should be a direct bolt in. The AC drain goes through the firewall in a location I don’t like. Mostly because it goes straight out the firewall and points at the engine. I picked up so 90 degree fittings and will try to see if I can make some sort of mod that will turn the drain downward and not be so noticeable sticking out of the firewall. Plus I would like to route the drain away from the header but in a clean way.

I have the Vintage Air A/C system and routed the drain line down along the inside of the frame rail.

 

BobE wrote:

Bolted to Floor wrote:

 
Always look for the temperature rating of the insulation no matter where you buy any cable... even for a battery under the hood. It might be big cable, but a low temp insulation rating will reduce the amount of cranking amps making it to the battery. 

Bolted to Floor – just a clarification wire insulation temperature limits; the issue with insulation is its ability to dissipate, and withstand, heat without degradation.  If you’re referring to the National Electric Code (NEC) ratings, remember these are for specific installations, like “three wires in a raceway” or a cable open to “free air”, and the ability of the wire/cable to safely provide that rated current on a 24/7/365 basis.
For battery cables in a vehicle where high current draw occurs for a very short time, during starting the engine, the insulation temperature rating is not as critical.  I believe any battery cable being sold will have the appropriate insulation for that application.

 

 
Bob, There is a whole lot of truth here. The tables from the NEC are based on a set temperature, like 86 F. When the temp goes up, multipliers are used to adjust the ampacity for the temp range for the application. You can have a wire with a 90C/194F insulation rating that could drop 50% of its ampacity trying to work at the temp range its rated for. I haven’t had any luck finding those tables for the wire I installed on the car or welding lead, just a note that temperature would have an affect. When the car is cool, all is good. Once the bay is heat soaked from driving, it’s a different story. You could be absolutely right that it’s not as critical as I’m thinking it is, but I would still start with as high a temp rating as I can get. There are many variations to wire insulations and its up to us to make sure we pick the right application.
 
The green jalopy has a lot of under hood heat, even with the Shelby fish gills letting it escape. It has the #2 cable routed from battery to start solenoid to starter….. it has some hesitation to start spinning and spins a little slower when the engine bay has been heated up.
 
 
 
Design changes!! The more times you do it the more you see ways to improve. Is it worth redoing now or waiting till the next car/time.

RTM - here is the best picture I can get of where the drain hose exists the interior.  Note that I moved the starter solenoid closer to the starter (battery moved to trunk) and O2 sensor cable for the EFI system is in the way.  The right-angle fitting is about 1.5" from the side, and about 1" down from the bend of the firewall.  I don't remeber how I routed this inside the interior.  
Hope this helps.  Let me know if other details would be helpful.

HEY......whynot run the drain line to the radiator over flow tank !? That way it will be a perpetual motion thing.
As the condensate drains to the overflow tank it will replenish any water that has evaporated from the cooling system !!
Always refilling its self.....Hmmmmmmm ?!!
6s6

Bolted to Floor - regarding the current carrying capability, I think we're in agreement, just saying the same thing in a different manner. 
Below link is from the Lincoln Electric site for selecting welding cables.  

https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en/welding-and-cutting-resource-center/weld-solutions/selecting-the-proper-size-welding-cables

 

Maybe I can save the AC drainage into a reservoir and install a pump to pump the water onto my rear tires for burn outs.

RTM wrote:

Maybe I can save the AC drainage into a reservoir and install a pump to pump the water onto my rear tires for burn outs.

I LIKE THAT IDEA !!
ORRRRR..if the need for water injection ever comes up................
6s6
 

Dude, don't feel to bad about forgetting stuff. It doesn't get better either when you get into your 60s. But Bullet Bob says late 70s is a cake walk.

rpm wrote:

Dude, don't feel to bad about forgetting stuff. It doesn't get better either when you get into your 60s. But Bullet Bob says late 70s is a cake walk.

Its a cake walk because everything seems to be 'new'! 
 

 I used the MustangSteve Wilkes designed battery tray that  CJ PONY coppied and started selling and learned its best to install the battery tray and the battery you are gonna use before drilling that top bracket for radiator and hook your radiator hoses up before  mounting the saddles on the bottom its easier to tweak the radiator location that it is the battery and where those hoses go.

Last edited by BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA (9/21/2024 6:44 PM)