Bash Thrash

Skip to: New Posts  Last Post
Posted by rpm
7/16/2024 11:24 PM
#1

A bit less than three months out for the Bako Bash on October 12th. Share your Bash Thrash updates.

Last edited by rpm (7/16/2024 11:25 PM)


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 
Posted by MS
7/17/2024 8:14 PM
#2





Replacing upholstery in my 69 coupe to add some side bolsters. A lot of work!!!

Next, the existing T5 is getting swapped out for one I bought from one of our forum members a couple of years ago.  Hopefully it has a seven tooth speedo drive gear instead of an 8 tooth.   I cannot grt the speedo to read right with the eight tooth.

After that, I plan to daily drive the car as much as possible to get it ready for the trip.

Best things about my 331 in this car:   REGULAR GAS and a stock GT roller cam and clutch that is smooth as butter.

It has almost 3,000 miles on the car now and the engine feels really strong for a very mildly equipped engine.

Biggest Bash Thrash challenge:  Make sure my water pump pulley has stopped crashing into my crankshaft  pulley on the wonderful CVF Wraptor serpentine belt system.  I plan to contact CVF to see if they will offer a smaller diameter pulley that will actually fit without rubbing.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 
Posted by BobE
7/18/2024 7:01 AM
#3

MS - regarding your speedometer reading, consider contacting "Rowland Speedometer Co.", phone 727-410-6352 (Florida).  They make an 'ratio adapter' for mechanical speedometers that may fit you needs.
They don't list a website, or email.


65 Fastback, 351W, 5-speed, 4 wheel discs, 9" rear,  R&C Front End.
 
Posted by MS
7/18/2024 1:19 PM
#4

Thanks, Bob. I have the parts to fix the problem without adding more gadgetry, so that is my plan. 

I do have a gas tank/gauge calibration gizmo I will be installing to get the gas gauge to read more accurately, though.  I will also be installing a 70 Mustang 22 gallon tank to increase capacity by two gallons (and teplace the original tank)


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 
Posted by rpm
7/18/2024 7:44 PM
#5

This has to be the first Bash with only one guy working to get their Mustang road ready. All I gotta do is check the fluids and kick the tars.


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 
Posted by Nos681
7/19/2024 5:27 AM
#6

Shortened stock c4 slip yoke yesterday and noticed some old pitting and a ding near output shaft seal area.

Was able to find a seal but no luck on a repair sleeve for the slip yoke…figures.

Still need to do a tune up and fix a minor exhaust leak and repair a broken weld on tailpipe hangar that I found yesterday.

 
Posted by rpm
7/19/2024 7:59 AM
#7

Nos681 wrote:

Shortened stock c4 slip yoke yesterday and noticed some old pitting and a ding near output shaft seal area.

Was able to find a seal but no luck on a repair sleeve for the slip yoke…figures.

Still need to do a tune up and fix a minor exhaust leak and repair a broken weld on tailpipe hangar that I found yesterday.

 
Is the yoke seal leaking?


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 
Posted by Nos681
7/19/2024 2:58 PM
#8

Not leaking, “seeping.”
Just enough to preserve the underside of transmission tunnel.
I plan to run old seal after slip yoke modification to see if it helps.
I was told by a reputable source that the stock slip yoke forward of the splines may block fluid flow on the T5 and cause problems.

I have a new seal and will need to find the appropriate repair sleeve.
There are a couple of old dings in the slip yoke near the u-joint end that might be pumping fluid out.
With the “dust boot bubble” on the tail shaft seal, I am not exactly sure where the seal rides.

May cut the dust boot off old one first to verify where the seal actually travels during suspension travel.

Of course all of this is after work during construction season.

Last edited by Nos681 (7/19/2024 2:59 PM)

 
Posted by MS
7/19/2024 4:48 PM
#9

I don’t think there is a slip yoke repair sleeve.  The yoke has to fit snug inside the slip-bushing inside the tranny. Surely a new one for a T5 is reasonable in cost?


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 
Posted by Nos681
7/21/2024 10:10 AM
#10

MS…driveshaft has the 1”x1” u-joints with inside clips.

The stock T5 slip yoke is a 1330.

No u-joint made for this transition…I looked.

 
Posted by rpm
7/21/2024 3:00 PM
#11

Nos681 wrote:

MS…driveshaft has the 1”x1” u-joints with inside clips.

The stock T5 slip yoke is a 1330.

No u-joint made for this transition…I looked.

 
Looks like it's time for a new driveshaft. One inch is a might small, specially for a 351W.


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 
Posted by Nos681
7/21/2024 5:32 PM
#12

rpm wrote:

Nos681 wrote:

MS…driveshaft has the 1”x1” u-joints with inside clips.

The stock T5 slip yoke is a 1330.

No u-joint made for this transition…I looked.

 
Looks like it's time for a new driveshaft. One inch is a might small, specially for a 351W.

 
That will happen when 9” gets installed.

 
Posted by MS
7/21/2024 8:15 PM
#13

I have an extra nearly new steel drive shaft with 1350
On both ends. I think I used the yoke for it on my new aluminum one. Somebody can get a deal on this one.
But 1350 is big for most.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 


 
Main page
Login
Desktop format