I can't say for that particular battery, but the AGMs in the my F250 can be charged with any regular charger.  Some manufacturers batteries need a special charger though I think, so it may just be an oddity of Braille. 

I would avoid lithium in a car battery like the plague.  Great for power tools, but if you ever got a heavy discharge situation and it overheated, well, I can tell you a story I may or may not be able to know about a vessel the Navy was working on with lithium batteries that almost killed its entire crew when the batteries overheated.  There was nothing wrong with the lead/aid or Ag/Zn batteries they had in it before, but they just felt they needed to push the envelope. 
 

I put an EarthX battery in the Cub and it works great. It is a lithium battery that has been approved for general aviation and experimental aircraft as well. They have come a long ways in a very few years. It uses the aircraft generator to charge it. It does need a special bench charger. I don’t have one. You can use  a regular charger on it but you need to watch it and not let it get hot.

We have an AGM in my son’s truck and I just installed one in my truck.  The one listed on Jegs website is different than what I bought for the trucks.  Keep in mind, it is the size of the battery I’m after so a stock size battery will not fit.  I really should have added to my old post and not started a new one.

All the negatives about lithium battery’s appears to be addressed in this one but it’s not cheap. Reading each description on the battery’s sure does make it appear the lithium one is the better and safer choice.

https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/restart-oem/atx30-hd/?srsltid=AfmBOorhzl8JY1LuVIIJ8WvwRrEEP6vDCEufNICSZhECyVePKKAoSuph

Correct me if I’m wrong but the lithium I listed has all the built in protection where the AGM has none.  The lithium should out last the AGM battery by a few years, I would expect it too.

Sounds like the AGM can be used in a car as long as it’s fully charged but what happens if I kill the battery trying to start the car and then it really needs to be recharged?   I’m guessing I shouldn’t jump start it?  If the battery is dead then my alternator would be charging it which wouldn’t be good?

For $630 I can buy 3 AGM batteries.  I think the claims of longer life are kind of ridiculous at that point.

I've had two AGM batteries on my shelf for close to 2 years as my Diesel is down.  I've tested them numerous times and they are always fully charged.  I even had to use one to start another vehicle and it worked just fine (backyard load test). 

I've charged the AGMs with the same alternator that's been in the truck since I replaced the garbage AutoZone replacement.  I've never had an issue with these batteries and Diesels torture test batteries far more than any car ever will.  At start up I'm cranking over and engine that has 22:1 compression, while running glow plugs, a big fuel pump, and all the electronics (including firing the injectors which operate at 48V (capacitors in the FICM step up the voltage)).  The alternator doesn't even energize until the engine has been running for about 30 seconds (I don't know why exactly its in the programming and can't be changed).  So every start those batteries are drawn down pretty hard.  Based on my experience with lead/acid vs AGM there is no comparison.  AGM is the clear winner.  Due to cost and the fact I need 2 high CCA (750-850 each) batteries I wouldn't even contemplate anything else.  I'm sure I could spend more money on a battery, but I doubt I'd see any difference in real world use. 
 

I just want to make sure the AGM I posted is safe to use in my mustang.   Reviews show people have it in their cars so I should be good.  Trust me I don’t want to spend $700 on a battery. 

The antigravity battery says it’s a lithium battery.

Pulled the trigger and order the AGM from Jegs.  I need a battery so I can finish up cutting my wires and cables to length and finish the battery tray tied down modifications.

If you want to see lithium ion fires, just do an image search for Tesla car burning.

The original AGM battery in my 2003 Miata lasted 13 years.  The second AGM (different manufacturer) lasted 8 years.  I put the 3rd AGM battery in this year.

I’ve “restored” a couple of batteries back in my old days. It was just a wash out of the deteriorated material and add new acid after inspecting the plates to make sure they were still standing up straight.
      I don’t know about the lead chemistry just what I’ve seen and heard from the manufacturers. The license renewal seminar talked about the Concord brand. Of course they are the best out there according to themselves. All the battery cases are heavier than automotive and each cell has their own cap that is designed for aerobatics and rough air to keep the acid in the battery. The battery is then placed in an enclosed box designed to capture any escaped acid and then vented overboard with air in and air out tubes. Acid comes with a new battery in a separate container that needs to be added to the battery when put into service. It is a MIL spec acid so with that I would assume the lead plates are a MIL spec as well. The price of them has more than doubled since Covid.

Last edited by HudginJ3 (9/06/2024 10:24 AM)

Spaceship part - 10,000x

How about a negative G carburetor for fighter planes:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_carburetor

The oil pressure, manifold pressure, and fuel pressure sensors were originally around $25. each. The diaphragms started to wear out in them and an Airwortiness Directive was issued to replace them with $285. each sensors. 
       Aircraft fuel injection is pretty much the same as a pressure carburetor with the addition of a spider to run the fuel to each cylinders intake port.