The connector pins can be removed from the connector.  I purchased a kit with many different size "pin removers" from Amazon (search "Terminal Removal Tool Kit") and have had good success using them. 

To make matters worse, I have the wrong connector too.  Ugh I can't win.  I'm not having a good day.   It'll be another full day of just figuring this stuff out. 

I need to order cable ends to plug into the small LED lights for the high beam and turn signals.  I have some of the female spade connectors but I'm not happy with how they pull apart when I remove from the spade connectors on the gauges.   Autometer supplied connectors but only for the speedometer and tachometer gauges.   I like their connectors.

KeithP wrote:

RTM wrote:

Here's where my lack of electrical knowledge shows itself. I assumed the wiring directions from FR were as simple as it looked. Turns out their black horn wire does not get +12V as it shows. Their black wire should be used as the ground to trigger a relay. Sadly I put all the pins on all the wires to plug into their GM style connector. Everything I touch on this build takes ten times longer to complete than it should.

I did get all my battery and starter cables made yesterday. Since I can't find a relay kit in stock at any of the local auto parts stores I'll focus on wiring up the gauges today. Really wanted to finish and install the steering column today.

The documentation that came with the steering column was not enough for me to wire everything up. I was able to find the documentation needed online. I wired my horn up using a relay and I also wired up the hazard switch on the column and eliminated the switch in the glove compartment. I can dig out my wiring diagram and post it if you need it?
 

 
How did you wire up the four ways?   Did you still need the mustang section of wiring to complete that?


roll d12

It can't be this easy to hook up the hazards is it?

KeithP wrote:

Yep, pretty simple when you use the original flasher.

 
Good to know I wired up my relay correctly.    Only difference is I have extra fuse blocks on the upgraded harness so I'm drawing power from it instead of jumping it.    I think that makes sense.   Lol

My plan was to work on the instrument gauge wiring but I've been on the phone with my son.  He's overseas right now.

Looks like others have used this EL12L1 from NAPA for LED lights.

BobE wrote:

Yes, you need to use a relay for LEDs.  LEDs do not draw the same current as the original incandescent lamps, and the original flasher will not work. 
Any 12v relay like this one, Model 896H-1CH-D, will do.  It is available on Amazon and several other sources. 

 
I love Amazon.   I can get most things the next day.

RTM wrote:

BobE wrote:

Yes, you need to use a relay for LEDs.  LEDs do not draw the same current as the original incandescent lamps, and the original flasher will not work. 
Any 12v relay like this one, Model 896H-1CH-D, will do.  It is available on Amazon and several other sources. 

 
I love Amazon. I can get most things the next day.

Sorry, you don't necessarily need a relay.  You can use the OEM hazard switch, but need a "LED Flasher".  I should have given you info on this 'universal' flasher, CT-13, which is also available via Amazon.  
 

RTM - OK, I understand you'll be using the FR hazard switch.  You'll still need an "LED" flasher if you're using LED lamps. 

I was able to purchase the two flashers I needed. 

Before I went to pick up the flashers I got to thinking about my wiring harness.  I have the upgraded dash harness so not only does it have a better fuse block and a couple of relays, it also has the hazard wiring wired in.  Instead of the way ford did it by inserting a separate harness for the hazard lights that plugged in between the column and dash harness.  This harness taps into the dash side of the steering column plug.  So now I'm thinking why can't I use this wiring for my hazards.  I had to call my buddy and we talked through it and I'll use the power side of the flasher and then run a brown wire from the flasher back to the brown wire on the flaming river steering column.  Which won't be to big of deal since I have to run the two AC power wires over to the fuse block.  I'll run the brown wire along with them.

I also found an error with the online drawing.  I'm not sure if the drawing is wrong or my harness is wrong but either way there is an error in the color of two of the wires coming from the hazard switch plug.