FYI FORD MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum / 1968 302 OIL PUMP SHAFT

**Posted by M1Mustang69** 11/12/2024 11:25 PM

So working on buddys 302 coupe (not certain on engine code but Firing Order is 1,5,4,2), after all that timing craziness I'd appreciate some clarity cause I can't find anything online.

He bought it with a HEI dist which I am personally not a fan of, and as it turns out it doesnt have the traditional FORD Oil Pump Shaft, but some sort of slotted one like the dodges.

Am I able to install a factory or MSD Distributor again without ripping the engine apart?

Unfortunately I don't have a photo, but I've yet to see a Ford with that style of shaft/distributor

Last edited by M1Mustang69 (11/12/2024 11:28 PM)

**Posted by M1Mustang69** 11/12/2024 11:28 PM

M1Mustang69 wrote:
So working on buddys 302 coupe (not certain on engine code but Firing Order is 1,5,4,2), after all that timing craziness I'd appreciate some clarity cause I can't find anything online.

He bought it with a HEI dist which I am personally not a fan of, and as it turns out it doesnt have the traditional FORD Oil Pump Shaft, but some sort of slotted one like the dodges.

Am I able to install a factory or MSD Distributor again without ripping the engine apart?

Unfortunately I don't have a photo, but I've yet to see a Ford with that style of shaft/distributor

**Posted by TKOPerformance** 11/13/2024 5:22 AM

A slotted shaft is what a Chevy uses. The issue you have with either a Ford or Chevy is that the oil pump driveshaft has something on it which prevents it from coming out the top (so it doesn't come out when you pull the distributor). Basically the shaft won't come through the hole in the block casting. You have to remove the oil pan and oil pump to change the driveshaft. In these cars its not really that bog a deal. I did it on my '67 twice over the years. The only crossmember in the way unbolts.

**Posted by BobE** 11/13/2024 7:54 AM

If you Google "ford oil pump drive shaft washer", and look at 'images', you'll see the driveshaft with the washer that TKO mentioned that keeps the driveshaft from pulling out of the pump when the distributor is pulled.

**Posted by M1Mustang69** 11/13/2024 8:42 AM

Yes yes I'm familiar, I was just hoping for an easier strategy (although clearly not that bad all things considered).

Still trying to figure out WTF anyone would do this, it's total nonsense!

**Posted by RTM** 11/13/2024 8:59 AM

It depends on if the current oil pump shaft has that retainer washer piece. If it doesn't then does it have a small enough diameter to pull through the top of the distributor hole. Of course this means the correct oil pump shaft would have to be installed without the retainer washer piece. I like to tap on the distributor shaft before I pull them to try and make sure the shaft doesn't pull out with the distributor.

For the record I have fished an oil pump shaft out of the oil pan from the distributor hole on my old 77 mustang.

**Posted by MS** 11/13/2024 10:26 AM

I have a rule of thumb. If I see one of those distributors on a Ford, I just turn and walk away.

You are doing the right thing to replace it with ANYTHING ELSE, no matter how much effort it takes.

**Posted by John Ha** 11/13/2024 2:36 PM

I've had good success with the Cardone reman distributors. You can get one at your local OReilly's. I'd suggest a Duraspark II unit for a mid-70's Maverick/Mustang/Comet 302. ARP makes great oil pump driveshafts too. They're more durable than the stock ones. O'Reilly carries those too - you'll want ARP 154-7904 for the 302.

(I'm not affiliated with O'Reilly nor do I receive any compensation for recommending them)

Last edited by John Ha (11/13/2024 2:37 PM)

**Posted by TKOPerformance** 11/13/2024 3:05 PM

Why people keep using the large cap HEI is beyond me. They weren't that good when they were new; they were just better than points. The later model small cap ones where they divorced the coil from the cap were a lot nicer looking (yes you can swap the early for the late, and yes I've done it). But the stock modules were garbage, done by 5,000RPM. Nowhere near enough coil saturation for high RPM use. Of course on a TBI or TPI engine it really didn't matter because they were done at 4,800. Ah the junk GM was using while Ford was dominating the world with the EECIV and the 5.0.