FYI FORD MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum / Clutch Out

**Posted by HudginJ3** 12/05/2024 10:05 PM

My clutch went out today on the Mustang. I put in a cheap one initially, but thinking it would last a lot longer than it did. Anyone have any suggestions as to which one to get. It's not a drag car, just a cruiser with a powerful engine. I dont think I need a $1000.00 clutch. TIA

**Posted by rpm** 12/05/2024 10:36 PM

I like McLeod.

**Posted by MS** 12/05/2024 11:22 PM

I have good recent experience with clutches. Maybe some will help.
I have used Centerforce dual friction, McLeod dual friction and Ram dual friction. Also Ford King Cobra. I have a asummit Racing stock
Clutch in my 69 with 331 and T5 tranny
I am back with the centerforce after having tried all the others in my 66. It makes a knocking noise if the cable is not super tight. Drives great but that noise bugs me. Not sure how it makes it. Two new Ford T/O bearings with same noise.
The Ram chattered from the day I put it in. I took it out after 1,000 miles. You can have it if you want it. 26 spline input, 10.5”.
McLeod was so stiff it took two legs to push the pedal. Never slipped or chattered. I took it out for being too stiff.
King Cobra has good manners. Only problem is if you shift above 5,500 rpm the pedal tends to stick to the floor. Not fun when it happens.
All in all, I prefer the Summit $139 clutch in my 69. It is easy to apply and is very smooth. I was tempted to put one in my 66, but could not find one with 26 splines, and was afraid it might burn out rapidly with 500hp.

Overall, for a performance clutch, the centerforce appears to have the best manners. I do not like the knocking thing. I spoke with manufacturer and they had no idea.

I think my next one will be a stock type. They are just better in a car driven normally. And so much easier to apply.

I have considered using a stock pressure plate with one of the discs from a dual friction clutch.

**Posted by Nos681** 12/06/2024 5:59 AM

I had a Centerforce Dual Friction in my 95 Z71 (350, 5 spd, 4x4, 3.42 LSD).

I used it for hauling wood in the bed and fully loaded 5x8 trailer for at least 5 years and 6 full cords per year.

Travels included many hills with full loads.

I had one problem. In the rust belt environment of the U.P., a couple of the weights got stuck affecting clutch operation in winter…of course.

Besides that, never had a problem slipping.

Clutch pedal force was similar to stock clutch.

**Posted by BobE** 12/06/2024 7:07 AM

I have a Centerforce "Dual Friction" clutch, diaphragm type, T5 transmission, hydraulic operated and am happy with it.

**Posted by TKOPerformance** 12/06/2024 3:30 PM

My advice would be call these guys:

https://www.promotionpowertrain.com/?srsltid=AfmBOoqnlV8RC1i928mKjzANcNHaEh_yKRAuc7XMZ_s3tzIEgimgs8Y0

They will mach a great clutch to what you are doing at a great price.

**Posted by 6sally6** 12/06/2024 6:22 PM

I went to NAPA years ago and bought mine. Don't think it was a "name-brand" either. Just their brand of stock replacement diaphram clutch. ZERO problems !!! (don't over-think it...most of the times the rear tires slip waaaay before the clutch will.)
Diaphram design is the best for leg/foot pressure.
6s6

**Posted by TKOPerformance** 12/07/2024 9:24 AM

6sally6 wrote:
I went to NAPA years ago and bought mine. Don't think it was a "name-brand" either. Just their brand of stock replacement diaphram clutch. ZERO problems !!! (don't over-think it...most of the times the rear tires slip waaaay before the clutch will.)
Diaphram design is the best for leg/foot pressure.
6s6

Depending on when you bought it NAPA clutches used to be made by LUK, which has generally good reviews across vehicle types. I don't know if they still are made by LUK, but generally NAPA stuff is made by a decent quality manufacturer. Their chassis stuff for example is Mevotech, which is all I've used for chassis parts for the last several years.

Last edited by TKOPerformance (12/10/2024 2:44 PM)

**Posted by DC** 12/10/2024 10:02 AM

South Bend Clutch

**Posted by Rufus68** 12/10/2024 12:48 PM

If your clutch went out too quickly, I'd be very careful with the adjustment of the new clutch. It is likely that a clutch is dragging if it wears out prematurely. This can either be an adjustment issue or an operator issue.

**Posted by rpm** 12/10/2024 2:40 PM

I had break-in instructions with McLeod.

**Posted by TKOPerformance** 12/10/2024 2:43 PM

rpm wrote:
I had break-in instructions with McLeod.

Whether directed to or not I've always observed a 500 mile break in period with any new clutch. 500 miles of easy driving. No hard launches, no bang shifts, etc. I figure its just good insurance. Changing a clutch is a PITA, and if you've ever done it on something FWD, AWD, or 4WD its even more so. I want that clutch to live as long as possible.

**Posted by Rufus68** 12/10/2024 3:24 PM

TKOPerformance wrote:
rpm wrote:
I had break-in instructions with McLeod.
Whether directed to or not I've always observed a 500 mile break in period with any new clutch. 500 miles of easy driving. No hard launches, no bang shifts, etc. I figure its just good insurance. Changing a clutch is a PITA, and if you've ever done it on something FWD, AWD, or 4WD its even more so. I want that clutch to live as long as possible.

This is spot on. This also applies to new brakes. Brake pads/shoes and rotors/drums are similar to clutch discs and pressure plate/flywheel. Whenever new, allow them to seat in before attempting to expect the full surface to make contact and provide the full functionality.

**Posted by TKOPerformance** 12/11/2024 7:35 AM

Rufus68 wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
rpm wrote:
I had break-in instructions with McLeod.
Whether directed to or not I've always observed a 500 mile break in period with any new clutch. 500 miles of easy driving. No hard launches, no bang shifts, etc. I figure its just good insurance. Changing a clutch is a PITA, and if you've ever done it on something FWD, AWD, or 4WD its even more so. I want that clutch to live as long as possible.
This is spot on. This also applies to new brakes. Brake pads/shoes and rotors/drums are similar to clutch discs and pressure plate/flywheel. Whenever new, allow them to seat in before attempting to expect the full surface to make contact and provide the full functionality.

On brakes I will typically do the following:

5 light effort stops from 50mph separated by 5 minutes cool down between stops.

5 medium effort stops from 50mph separated by 5 minutes cooling between stops

5 high effort stops from 50mph separated by 5 minutes cooling between stops.

When cooling the goal is not to use the brakes at all or as little as possible (having a stick shift really comes in handy here). Between evolutions obviously you also want 5 minutes for cooling, as well as after you are done. I just jump on the back roads by where I live and pull over as needed. This produces pads that grip very. very well hot or cold and they last longer too. Off topic, but I also only use carbon metallic pads anymore. Bendix makes very good pads at a reasonable price. They produce more brake dust than ceramic pads, but they work much better. I'll trade having to periodically clean my rims for better stopping.