So I FINALLY painted my 65 FB and am pretty happy with it.  Below is a summary of the process.  I used TAMCO 5311 primer (http://www.tamcopaint.com/primers-and-sealers.html).  This is a high build urethane primer that goes on directly over bare metal.  I shot three coats with a cheap HF gun with a 1.8 tip and 30 psi at the gun (trigger wide open).  It's very thick and although it can be shot 4:1, I had to reduce it to 4:1:1 to get it to flow out.  It went on very well, minimal orange peel and sanded very easily.  After blocking, with an assortment of Durablocks, up to 220 grit, I shot another three coats and blocked it again to 400 grit.  I used all of two gallons, with about half of it ending up on the floor of my shop as sanding dust.  I'm very happy with this primer and because it's a high build DTM, I didn't have to shoot the car with an epoxy first.  This paint also contains haylox rust inhibitor and the paint company owner told me they used it to paint over a rusty hood and its sat outside for a couple of years with no rust through.

After this, I had TAMCO mix up some of their Duraflint single stage urethane in Dark British Racing Green:  (http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?type=sample&paint=77272&ditzler=46968&syear=1996&smanuf=Jaguar&smake=Jaguar&smodel=&sname=British%20Racing%20Green&name=jaguar1996racinggreen&scomm=XJS&rows=50)

I know some of you base coat/clear coat guys will turn your noses up on single stage, but I reasoned it out this way:  The paint I used is supposed to be very UV resistant, but my car is going to be garaged anyway.  Also, I see clear coat failures every day - most on factory paint jobs.  I reasoned that if the factory couldn't do a good job under the kinds of super controlled robotic paint systems they use, I had little chance in my garage.  Also, my color - BRG - is non-metallic, so I knew I could cut and buff it without a clear coat.  I also wanted a paint job that I could touch up easily should I go through during a cut and buff (which I did) or if Ineeded to in the future.  Lastly, I wanted a lower shine reminiscent of the factory paint jobs and all of the clear coat finishes seemed too glossy to me. 

I shot the body on the first day, and the doors, hood, deck lid, valences, and other small parts on the next day.  I sprayed 4 coats on most parts using the same cheap HF gun, this time with a 1.4 tip and 25 psi at the gun (again, trigger wide open).  The paint went on well, no runs with a couple of minor sags that easily sanded out.  Some orange peel in some places, but about what you see on a lot of factory jobs.  The day I shot the body it was pouring rain (raining in Dallas in August!).  I was a little concerned so I contacted TAMCO and was told this would not be an issue.  I decided to hedge my bet.  Since I was painting in my garage that adjoins my shop (which has A/C), I ran the fresh air through my air conditioned shop into my garage (see the filters across the door and the A/C wall unit next to it, in the pic below) just in case.  I ended overflowing a 5 gallon bucket with A/C condensate on the day I painted.  I used a 25 gallon 5 hp compressor, following MS's advice to coil the line in a bucket of ice water upstream of a water trap.  I did not use a filter at the gun.  Below are a series of pics of me converting my garage into a temporary spray booth:




As above, fresh air is pulled though the filters across the door to my shop and was exhausted through the three box fans.  Although this setup was knocked together in a few hours, I didn't get any noticeable dust in the paint.  I wet sanded the paint by hand using Durablocks with 1000 grit, then followed with just a small flexible pad with 1500 grit, and then 2000.  I buffed using a Porter Cable 7424XP random orbital sander/polisher with Meguires 105 compound.  I initially tried a wool pad, but thought it left too many scratches/swirls, so I switched to a Lake County orange foam pad.  I buffed the entire car twice with this setup and then switched to Meguires 205 and a Lake Country white foam pad. I'm pretty happy with the result, but still have some slight swirls I still have to deal with - any suggestions?  Anyway, here's the car back in my shop after the cut and buff:



The second picture shows what the car looks like in lower light.  The light blotches on the side are from light filtering in through the windows.  The BRG I used is the darkest that was used and in low light almost looks black.  With all the orange peel gone, the paint looks very deep.