Just curious what you guys do, as far as taping the door jambs. I see a lot of hard tape lines in jambs. Is there a better way to tape jamb? I think they sell special tape with a rounded edge but, I haven't tried it. Anybody try it?
They do make a special seal when spraying along a jamb. It looks like basically backer rod, a product thats used to help fill Cracks in concrete so you can use less Caulking. I learned from a very well known painter how to mask back masking etc so you never will have a tape mark in a jamb. Some body shops actually use the spray masking in the jamb area. Then they remove the sealer by washing the door jamb. After this is done you can re clear the jamb.
Yamaha, when you say "mask back masking" are you talking about 2" tape then pulling back about 1" then taping the over lap, so you have a rounded edge, instead of flat hard line?
There's a lot of ways to go about taping the jambs. I wouldn't touch 2" tape to do my door jambs. 3/4" is most painters buddy. If you go to your local autobody supply or home depot get some solvent resistant paper if spraying standard base coat. If spraying water borne then you have to get paper rated for it. I usually use the yellow 3m masking tape. So when I tape off my jamb I usually will tape as close to the door jamb edge as possible. There are several ways to do so. Some people will shut the door. Tape right next to the door jamb edge, then proceed to masking off the body of the car and the nessasary areas of the door and interior. Usually after this is done the door Jamb is clean scuffed all contamination is gone you can proceed to using either a primer sealer or an epoxy primer sealer. After the sealer is flashed you can follow up with the base coat. After the base coat is done you don't want to clear the jamb! Next Un mask the body of the car and proceed to sealing and painting the body. If this is done correctly when any over spray has landed on the door jamb you shouldn't see it. If it's heavy from spraying to heavy of coats. You can wet sand with 1500 if it's a non metalic color. Then I suggest re spraying the base if the sanded area. After this is done. You can follow up with the clear. I suggest SPI Clear and their Epoxy primer. Another way you can spray the jambs Is mask off the interior shoot the jambs only. If over spray gets on the outer panels it doesn't matter. Because you can let the base flash and cure. Then wet sand the body panels that have any base on them. Then close your doors. Spray the base on the body. After letting the base cure you can then follow up by clearing the whole car. Most paint manufacturers have set recommendations on how long you can let the base sit before clearing. If you go past this time you should scuff re shoot your base and them clear. Rm says you can go as long as you want to before you clear. Sherwin last time I used if which was about 2 weeks ago.They say you can go a max of 7 days. Some paints will state you have to clear them with in a few hours. This is usually because they don't want the paint to have a bigger chance of getting contaminated. This could cause serious problems. Hopefully this helps. Also on another note. If you are looking to do stripes. I would suggest getting some rtape. And some 3m blue fine line tape. You can easily paint your own flames or stripes on your car. Don't let your local body shop supply try and sell you the rtape that they sell its usually double and you get half as much.
